Hi All;
This is my first time here on this forum, so please be gentle...... I have a '68 Chevelle that has a very bad wheel-hop problem, I need help with what type of traction bars to use. It's a 12 bolt posi 3:55 and has a sway bar, I have looked thru the Jeg's & Summit catalogs and I'm abit baffled on which way to go. Can you guys steer me in the proper direction, I'm looking for a cheap & simple bolt-on application.

Thanks............Jim

Jegs "Jegster Lift-Bars" work well...

Wheel hop is usually caused by worn bushings, or having the car sit too high in the rear, or both. Jegsters will give you a little better traction, and completely eliminate hop.

I found this in TC's "Racer's Corner". Some very good information.

http://chevelles.com/racing/tricks.html

I'm looking at the Jeg's catalog and was leaning toward either the Lakewood "no-hop" bars (21609) or the Edelbrock "anti-hop" bars (5213), which I believe are the same bars, any opinions on those?

P.S. I have oversize tires in the rear and air-shocks, the car sits at a slight rake.......60's style

Thanks............Jim

getting the back of the car back down where it belongs will help the mos but if thats out try adjustable upper arms and get the pinion angle down a bit. the air shocks need to go too if you want traction
most of the no hop bars reqire drilling holes through the upper ears on your rear

I was told once use poly bushings,Don't do it!! It ruined the ride on my 69 SS Chevelle.So it is back to new rubber bushings and for now slapper bars.Great ride and no more wheel hop.

This is just my opinion but I never liked those bars. I didn't like the idea of screwing around with those cast ears on the housing. Crack them and the rear is junk. If you really want something try the other lakewood lift bars for the bottom. They are the old southside machine bars. leave the stock bars up top and use the bottom bar to change the imaginary point of intersection and to adjust pinion angle. Also get rid of the air shocks.

these are not bolt in but... http://www.umiperformance.com/4010.aspx I am going with these. UMI is coming out with a bolt in version soon if you cant weld. If your bushings are beat you also need to get that taken care of.

on my old 65, I had the Lakewood "slapper bar" style traction bars. They worked great. They worked so good in fact that after the intall, I was able to lay down posi makrs with my peg leg rear. I preloaded the power wheel more and it shifted power to both wheels. On my current 65, I went with the Jegster "lift" bars, SSM style, with Jegster adjustable uppers. Unfortunately I have a pretty much stock motor so I haven`t noticed any thing different besides being stable but I set it up for when I get a new motor built.

Anthony;
Do you have a model number for those bars, I would like to look them up on the Lakewood web site.

On the Jegs site they are part number 620-20188. Thats for the lakewood coil spring traction bar. The one they show isn`t the one I had. Click on the 64-72 part number and it will give the correct picture. I would link you to it but I`m having troubles linking to sites since I switched to DSL.

Thanks Anthony, the one shown are the '78-87, they have a mounting bracket on the stabizer bar (20189). The 20188 doesn't use that bracket.

If you click on the 64-72 part number it will give you the correct picture. They worked good for what they were.

If you click on the 64-72 part number it will give you the correct picture. They worked good for what they were.

I have those on my car, got em on ebay though. They eliminated all my wheel hop problems. Just make sure you check the bolts for tightness often, mine tried to come loose once, put some thread lock on and now they seem ok.

For $100 and a 20 min install, they aren't bad at all.

O.K. guys, I also found these bar on Lakewoods website along with the installation instructions.... very simple. Thanks to all I really appreciate the in-put.