Guys I've been looking and if the sunlight is right I can see waves even in cars that are only a year or 2 old. Not alot of waves but a few. About the only vehicle that I found that doesn't have any waves is the jeep cherokee,the newer ones. I'm not trying to put any car makes down or anybodys car down but what I'm getting at is it possible to get every small wave out? Is there a trick to it or do you just have to glaze and prime and paint then glaze and prime and paint again untill you get them all out?
Any help is really appreciated.
Thanks
Jerry

There are some pretty incredible Chevelles out there. Most of them far exceed original manufacturing standards. You have to decide how far to go. Dents are dents, however most of our cars when built had the following: deflections (waves & wrinkles) in front fender eyebrow area, circumferance of door panel to edge, upper door in belt area, handle area, bottom of quarter panel to rocker, slight deflection following contour of wheel lip, roof pillar seams, rear of quarter at extensions, or ElCamino leaded seam areas at taillamps. also hood and trunk crimped and welded edges, and hood and trunk where adhesive was applied between inner panel and outer skin. Did I miss any guys? All of above, caused from Stamping of panel, Spot welds, Brass at flex points, Assembly of panel, spot weld and Crimping of edges, or (YUK) poor assembly and sloppy lead work. I am using the following criteria on my 66 Elcamino: Style lines must be true and line up panel to panel, seams not show, gaps uniform as possible, left all factory deflections, from lower style line down, tried to be Very fussy in all other areas unless normal factory deflection. Planning on driving this one. PROCESS: strip to bare metal, repair dents, clean surface, etch prime, catalized primer surfacer, with guide coat, hand block with 6,12 or 18" board, sanded probably 8o% of primer off. Now I know what the panel looks like. Everyone has their own opinion as to best process, most all are good. Try to keep film thickness as thin as possible, LESS IS MORE when it comes to undercoats, and fillers. Lots of material (filler, primer, etc.) is no substitute for good metal work.

Thanks for the reply More Ambition than brains. Now I know why so many cars from the factory look so bad when you really check them out.
I know what you mean by keeping the material thin,I only spray Lacquer for that reason because I don't like the thick paint and thick clear look you get from painting enamel. I think most people just look at that thick shiny enamal clear and like the shine so there happy. I can't use alot of the new products out there because nothing is compatible with lacquer. So I guess I'm stuck with the lacquer glaze and lacquer primer,I even have to spray black lacquer paint on just to see any waves but I only paint my cars black anyway. I guess there is no easier way.

C.C.C Have to make one more comment. If you have a booth to spray in, and a well ventilated area to prep in please take a good look at the current refinishing products available. If you don't, ignore balance of post. The new stuff is very TOXIC. Other than being very spendy, and being poisonous, we have found NO down sides to catalyzed products. They have most bugs worked out. If properly used and applied the fillers, poly glazes, undercoats,single & two stage paint SYSTEMS offer the following. SUPERIOR, gloss, gloss retention, minimal shrinkage, durability, repairability, adhesion and corrosion resistance. Most urethane manuf. discourage blending, lacquer is still king there, however, unless always garaged, and regularily polished, lacquer blends will show up. Honest, I don't sell paint. I own a collision shop and can't afford to have comebacks. We warrantee almost anything once. Karl

More ambition than brains,
Thanks for the warning. Do you mean the new paints are more toxic than the paint used to paint rubber or vinyl bumper that came out a while back?
I know you have to have a real good paint room for the new paint or dust will ruin everything. With lacquer you can sand out alittle dust.
Thanks again for the warning

also remember that most cars are mass produced, and a nice finish is important, but a show finish isn't desired...

As for the older Chevelles, remember that Chevrolet was also low on the GM totem-pole, so to speak... Cadillac, Buick, Olsmobile, Pontiac and then Chevrolet... The lower end cars, on average, will get less attention to detail...

C.C.C The OSHA approved answer would be ALL products we use are toxic. Products, for the most part, have become more toxic than in past. I don't remember if the early flex additives we used in lacquer had isocynates or not. The solvents used in lacquers and the old non catalysed enamels were found to have long term negative health effects. Isocynates build up in your system more rapidly thru both the skin and lungs. The dizziness you experience when using lacquers & enamels (no catalyst)without proper breathing protection is NOT healthy. For catalyzed products multiply than many times. There are many people who had HAD to leave our industry because of chemical sensitivity. There are not that many OLD retired painters & in some cases body men. THE LIST OF LIVING PEOPLE I WORKED WITH IN THE LATE 70S, WHO, WOULD NOW BE BETWEEN 65&70 YEARS OLD IS WAY TOO SHORT. Please use all required safety equipment. Karl

Karl
Thanks again for the warning
Jerry

1966-L78
Thanks for the reply.I always wondered,do the leaves stay on the trees all year long in Ca. where it is warm all year?
Jerry