I've heard all the ups and downs and pros to cons about doing this but especially now since Ive got a MIG I will be doing this, this month. I wont be adding an opener kit for a while I just need some pointers and How To's from those who have done it, size of metal to use, how much, how much filler. etcetc. Pictures of the process would be awesome if I could find it? :D

My tip: Don't do it... Most people I hear doing it, or anyother patching, use an old body part, or pick one up somewhere. That way it's the same guage, and same meterial. You can also use that for patch panels too.

Originally posted by pnutkemist:
I've heard all the ups and downs and pros to cons about doing this but especially now since Ive got a MIG I will be doing this, this month. I wont be adding an opener kit for a while I just need some pointers and How To's from those who have done it, size of metal to use, how much, how much filler. etcetc. Pictures of the process would be awesome if I could find it? :D I would get the openers working first before anything else.
I would attack the removal of the handle metal like a rusted out area that needs a patch panel. Cut it out large enough, carefully fit in a new patch panel, weld it up, grind it down and it shouldn't take that much filler. Also treat the bare metal on the backside after you are done.
The biggest thing would be making sure that the openers work each and every time. This way you can check out how it works on the bench before installing it.
Take out the latches and clean out all of the old gunk and grime and relube them.
Make sure the door is lined up properly (hinge bushings/latch pin).
If you have the room inside of the door, see if there is a way to weld brackets onto the old latch mechanism so the new actuator or solenoid can be attached to it instead of on the door metal.
Run seperate grounds into the car. Don't use the door for a ground.
Maybe add a cable pull release incase the system malfunctions.
Run seperate fusing for each door and put in rubber door grommet tubes to route the wires from the door into the interior. The rubber tubes will also allow for later additions of other wiring later if needed.
Since there isn't a lot of info with pictures out there, maybe document what you are doing.
Good luck.
Jim/Saint Louis

Go around and ASK people that OWN cars with shaved handles, bet ya I know what they are gonna say.

For a daily driver its nothing but a HUGE PITA. But for a show car that is ONLY driven on and off the trailer then they are fine.

Try imagining getting stuck out in a friggin down pour and you cant get into the car. Been there done that, it BLOWS

A friend of mine did that, but he put a emergency pull cable hidden in the drivers front wheel well. just leave it long enough so the door opens and shuts. And I think after a while it got really old, but he'd never admit to it.