As everyone knows Scoggin Dickey offers some wild street motors...... I was doing some dreaming the other day..... had a couple of questions for the masters on this board. First, what is the reputation on the street for the engine builders at S.D.? I was looking at that 700 hp 555 to say drop in a 70 BB Chevell,( 4-speed, 3.73 12 bolt). what are some of the challenges say one would expect from a beast like this? The car would see say 500 miles a year to various local car outings and maybe 12 passes a year at the local drag strip for the oldies shoot out.... If we don't get to crazy.. could the frame handle this type of horspower? could the M-21 handle it? The motor comes with the super victor intake with a Holley Dominator.... I know I won't be able to use the cowl induction air cleaner.. however I love the functional cowl hood.. could I still use the hood with this beast in it? What do you pros think of the Dart Block and heads that they use in this build up? Lunati crank and rods? What kind of clutch setup.. Center force??? what type and brand of electric fuel system to feed an animal like this? The rear suspension is pretty dialed in at this point... What could we maybe expect in the .25 mile.. say if the car hooked up with a seasoned driver(not me lol) low tens??? Thank you ahead of time for your thoughts on this subject. Randy



P.S. Happy Holidays to all and may 06 be a winner with no red lights.

Frame would be ok, tranny would die if you got it to hook up.

I would use a 250 gph pump.

Lunati is top notch stuff.

I had good luck with a Center Force Dual friction up to 800 hp.

M-21 wont hold for nothing. That power and a manual your gonna need to step up drastically, not even a Super T-10 will come close to holding it.

I'm not sure they want the builder name published since that would allow you to bypass SDPC and go straight to the builder. I've had the chance to go over one pretty well at SDPC and they're as high of quality as you're likely to find, all good stuff.

Thanks guys for the info.... What kind of tranny do you suggest? Jerico? With the Super victor intake sittin pretty hi(6.2) any ideas on using an air cleaner that would allow me to use the cowl hood? Thanks, Randy

Automatic, better buy at least a 4" cowl hood, what are your performance numbers now? I doubt your suspension or drivetrain is dialed in for 700hp, until thats fixed I think it might run low 11's or high 10's.

Bob thanks for your input. I am a total rookie with the BB bug. I will try and fill you in.... I bought back in 2000 a sweet non numbers matching 70 Chevelle. Deep water blue with ivory interior. paint and interior I'd say an 8. Fresh m-21 and a repo ls6 with a original ls6 cam and ls6 intake as well as the heads. Balanced.( this car was originaly a 396 car) 12 bolt posi that must of come out of an automatic( numbers decoded say 3.31 70 Chevelle). Car had aprox. 10,000 miles on it since body on restoration. Tired of going to car shows. Several years ago when I bought an all original norwood Z-28 from the original owner here in Boise, I had a chance to take this Z down the quarter mile at an oldies drag event. It hooked up pretty nice, no wheel hopp. Had a blast as a rookie... ran a 14.25.. just what the book said it should from Chevrolet. I knew that I did not want to grenade this 64,000 original DZ-302 so I put the car away. Back to the Fat RAT... about two years ago I took the Chevelle to the same event .. what a rush!!! Had to feather the launch do to terrible wheel hopp and clicked off a 13.5 at 105 thru the traps with stock 14" wheels and tires! You are right the car is not dialed in at this point for 700 horses, however we have made a good start towards it. Global west lower control arms, hotchkiss adjust. uppers, comp. eng. drag shocks. Hotchkiss rear springs. new 3.73 gears. hardened cover for the diff.. With this setup I am hoping for high 12s( stock wheels have been replaced with centerlines and street slicks) Forgot to mention Moser axles....I do realize that there are weak links in my setup... 12 bolt.. M-21... I realize there are old pros on this board and rookies like myself that read this board.. I plan to pay-up and join this awesome sight... So back to the education process.... you say automatic... I love a 4-speed... I do realize the strong pros to using an auto.. What do you suggest.. 400.. 350.. powerglide? Who makes a good tranny? Why am I asking about future motors?.. I don't know who built this rat thats in it now and I do not want it coming apart. I'd rather invest in someone who knows what the hell their building and have alot of fun with the car. I JUST WANT TO SMOKE SOME RUBBER!! Sorry for the rambling... Thanks, Randy

Back to the engine,
I have both done dynoed a few of these basic types of engines & can say it is really nice to see some reasonably believable numbers for the combination shown.
I think they might be a little much given the .632 lift as this does not take advantage of the heads being used but still within reason given it is a 555. :)

SD has as far as I know a very good reputation for both having quality engines built & the pricing is, in my opinion, in line with what it would cost for the caliber of parts. & the attention to detail it takes to do one of these things.
The Dart block is an excellent platform & the Lunati rods are very good.
I do not know who's crank they are using as they are vague here but from the description would suspect it is Scat as they are finished in the USA as the ad states.
The heads are dependent on who did the work but without question they are capable of the power claimed :)
Given the header size & with a solid roller I feel this is bordering on an 800+HP combo.

Sounds like a sweet car. I'd talk to Norm(Marooned) or Bill(BillsCamino) about a transmission, I think Bill just installed a Coan converter and trans and is pretty pleased with it. I know you guys love to bang those gears but behind a healthy big block you're going to hear something else go bang ;) I ran a th350 behind my old motor and it did a fine job, had it freshened and installed behind the 505 and it lasted 2-3 months, then it took a month to get a th400 straightened out so it would hold up, ended up with the reverse manual valve body and its been great ever since, soon to add a 8" converter to try and improve 60fts and front half e.t.s. I'm using SSM lower control arms,METCO adjustable uppers set at stock length, stock rear springs and QA1 single adjustable shocks on the rear, set at full stiff. I'm not sure that my suspension is up for the additional stall of the 8" converter, wasnt worth a darn when I hit it with a little nitrous :D

If I were you I would go with a turbo 400 untill I really learned how to drive the car. That car will go 10's very easy once you get it shook down a little. I have a buddy with a 70 Chevelle, 690 hp 540 and it ran a 10.80 right off the trailor. He is now in the 10.60 range with very little tuning, just brut power.

Once you really got the car figured out and the auto gets boring you can look into a G-Force GF-5R 5 speed. They shift very well and can be built to handle 12-1400 hp, depending on options. Another killer tranny is a Jeffco or the street version of a Lenco called a ST1200. The Jerrico's are also nice.

That motor needs a solid roller, especially if you are only going to drive it 500 or so miles a year.

If it were me it would have 12.5 to 1 compression and a solid roller in the 270 @ .050 range, .700 lift. That would make a little more than 800 hp.

Bob thanks for your input. I am a total rookie with the BB bug. I will try and fill you in.... I bought back in 2000 a sweet non numbers matching 70 Chevelle. Deep water blue with ivory interior. paint and interior I'd say an 8. Fresh m-21 and a repo ls6 with a original ls6 cam and ls6 intake as well as the heads. Balanced.( this car was originaly a 396 car) 12 bolt posi that must of come out of an automatic( numbers decoded say 3.31 70 Chevelle). Car had aprox. 10,000 miles on it since body on restoration. Tired of going to car shows. Several years ago when I bought an all original norwood Z-28 from the original owner here in Boise, I had a chance to take this Z down the quarter mile at an oldies drag event. It hooked up pretty nice, no wheel hopp. Had a blast as a rookie... ran a 14.25.. just what the book said it should from Chevrolet. I knew that I did not want to grenade this 64,000 original DZ-302 so I put the car away. Back to the Fat RAT... about two years ago I took the Chevelle to the same event .. what a rush!!! Had to feather the launch do to terrible wheel hopp and clicked off a 13.5 at 105 thru the traps with stock 14" wheels and tires! You are right the car is not dialed in at this point for 700 horses, however we have made a good start towards it. Global west lower control arms, hotchkiss adjust. uppers, comp. eng. drag shocks. Hotchkiss rear springs. new 3.73 gears. hardened cover for the diff.. With this setup I am hoping for high 12s( stock wheels have been replaced with centerlines and street slicks) Forgot to mention Moser axles....I do realize that there are weak links in my setup... 12 bolt.. M-21... I realize there are old pros on this board and rookies like myself that read this board.. I plan to pay-up and join this awesome sight... So back to the education process.... you say automatic... I love a 4-speed... I do realize the strong pros to using an auto.. What do you suggest.. 400.. 350.. powerglide? Who makes a good tranny? Why am I asking about future motors?.. I don't know who built this rat thats in it now and I do not want it coming apart. I'd rather invest in someone who knows what the hell their building and have alot of fun with the car. I JUST WANT TO SMOKE SOME RUBBER!! Sorry for the rambling... Thanks, Randy The 555 is a good size fairly large motor. Most of these cars having big blocks with tall intakes won't clear the stock type hoods. The good news is that Glasstech makes a real good stock type opening fiberglass hood with a 4" rear cowl that can be put on and painted to match. It requires a light spring to hold it up but they work good. The Muncie won't last long as the max it can survive is about 400 H.P. for very long. Be sure to get a driveshaft with bigger "U" joints. The 350 Turbo is the best choice for an efficient transmission if built by someone who knows all the tricks to making them live, we've had very good luck with ATI's trannies. If money is no object i think a 200-4R overdrive would be a nice addition with all the good parts of course. If you must have a stick, go with a 4 speed G-Force for anything up to 800 H.P. or one of the five speed models for more. Our 350 Turbo has been behind a 800 horsepower (540) and only lost a sprag a couple of times because of bad burnout procedures. Neal Chance advocates using high gear "only" burnouts in water, to save the sprag. This setup can give you low ten or high nine quarters if you don't get kicked off of the strip first.

To all that responded thank you... You gave me some good insight as to what I need to mull over... As you can tell from the few post that I have made.. I am just learning... What a great site to get an education and feed this addiction at the same time.. Randy

Going from the motor in your Chevelle now, to any motor as powerful as that 555 is going to be a night and day difference, and not necessarily a good one. For a street driven car that sees occasional strip time, that is way too much motor, IMO. For what you would like to do I would recommend a ZZ502. It would be a complete deal, and if you decide you want/need more power it would be very easy to add (swap cam, port heads, etc.- or even nitrous.) You will get a much more streetable engine that should run much longer and happier on the street. Keep the M21 'til it grenades, unless you're hooking up with sticky tires it should be fine. Tuned, you should meet your low 11 second goal, and with a car that will be much easier (and dare I say, safer) to drive. Plus, it should be much easier to fit under your hood.