Hi, before I ask any questions I'll try to explain the state that the car's in as an attempt to make clear what I'm trying to do.
I'll try to keep this short.
I've done some searches here and found that acrylic lacquer isn't very popular these days for several reasons, but I started with that and I'll finish with that because that's what I have and I'm comfortable with it (child labor will be rubbing it out j/k).

Current state of car (done years ago):
Front fenders, both doors and hood painted with PPG's Duracryl Cottilion White (not completely rubbed out)
Right rear fender, rear fender extensions and front fender extensions primed with PPG's DZL 32 (Primer 32)
Left rear fender and trunk area partially prepped, but not primed
Not worried about the roof right now, it'll have a vinyl top

The plan:
To paint the whole car with PPG's Duracryl Glacier White (like I should have in the first place, got wrong color)
Sanding the Cotillion White, spot puttying where necessary and re-painting (doors and forward)
Re-prepping from doors back, priming with DZL 32 and painting (whole car the same color at the same time) Bright idea, huh?

The questions:
If DZ 330 Acryli-Clean doesn't get some of the accumulated grease, oil and funk in general that's gotten in the paint or primer over the years, what's a good alternative to use as far as cleaning it goes?

Does my plan to use the Cotillion White as a base coat for the Glacier White seem ok (they're both Duracryl)?

Should I use Sealer 70 over red spot putty to help cover?

Should I wait (for color coats) until it's hot enough to use the fastest thinner (DTL 105?) for best results?

Thanks a lot.

I'll try to answer a couple of your questions...
First, the hotter the weather, the SLOWER the thinner you will want to use. It's been a long time since I used Duracryl but seems to me like DTL105 is their slowest thinner. Addtionally, if the temperature is very high(above 85-90) and high humidity, you will probably need to add a retarder along with the slowest thinner. I prefer using the slowest thinner I can get by with. The risk of runs is greater but the likelihood of dry streaks down the center of the roof, hood, deck lid etc. or in hard to reach crevices. To reduce the risk of runs, I just do more and lighter coats.

Wax and Grease Remover....it's not intended to remove built up "gunk" and grease. Clean the car thoroughly with plenty of soap and water before and after almost every step along the way. The more you wash it, the less dust and wax/grease problems you will risk when the color gets sprayed.

The possible drawback to using a different shade of white as the first one or two coats is when you rub out the final job. You run the risk of sanding/rubbing through the upper coats and the color difference will show. Of course, if you use clear(I'd recommend it) and the body work is slick, that risk is of little consequence.

Always cover spot putty with primer or sealer. Without it, the paint may fisheye when applied directly over the putty. It may also "bleed" through the color especially since you are using white paint.

Hope that helps.

Vette,

Thanks for responding, and not telling me I'm crazy for wanting to use Duracryl.

It's been a while since I messed with this stuff and I'm no painter, which is why I'm willing to pay the price in labor after spraying.

I guess DTL16 are the fast, DTL876 medium, and DTL105 the slowest thinners to be used at temperatures cold to hot respectively. I'll heed your warning and try to plan on doing this when it's not going to be too much over 90* so that a reducer won't be necessary.

Thanks again.