Just read GOT_cid's post about a body off resto. Got me to thinkin'...... I have the engine & interior completely removed from my '70 and want to restore the underside and chassis with POR-15 and undercoating etc.... I also have the underside of the floor pan seams to weld and seal.
I am going all the way with the engine and interior.....I have the front end to rebuild as well as a posi rear to install. Should I go with a body off resto and if so, how do I go about removing the body from my car ?? Advice and tips wanted. What are the pros and cons ? :cool:
Thanks guys. (I do have a third bay where the body could be stored and worked on)

I've seen it done with a couple of engine hoists (from the front and rear) lift it and using cross timbers set on stands so the chassis can be rolled out, and with a BUNCH of people just lifting it off and setting on stands. Either way, its best to move the least amount of weight. Remove and tag everything you plan on restoring. Interior, glass and doors weigh the most. And of course, if you have a 2 post lift, its easiest. Just remember, it will take twice the money and 3 times the time you plan on. :D

I was in the same boat as you, but I have always wanted to do a body off resto. Much funner project when you have easy access to EVERYTHING under the car and frame.

I did a search for "lifting body" and there is a TON of info on how various people have done it. I'm pretty much just going to be removing the front clip, interior, doors, etc and using a couple of engine hoists.

Two in the front, one in the back and you can do this by yourself... http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/71SSBB/68bodyinstall-1.gif

One gutted chevelle body no clip. Four guys, four tall jack stands, and two 4X4's roll the frame out. Real easy and safe!

Good luck graemlins/waving.gif

John,I followed the steps from Lmacdonald's post 1/29/01 it was very easy, I done my 67 chevelle by myself. It's under body off, bodyshop section,member #6496, look it up very helpful.

Hey Tex,I did my 67 with a hand over hand wench,two 4x4s and 18 cinderblocks.five on each side in the back four on ea.side in the front.had it that way for long long time.It's back on now. Good luck...spray those bolts bolts now.you will thank me later.....Ed

Looks like I several options...... I have one hoist, so I think I will try to raise the front end (no clip) onto tall jack stands with a strap (sling) and then raise the back the same way. In the meantime, will spray all bolts holding frame to chassis and will look up Lmacdonald's post for more info. Thanx for all the great ideas graemlins/waving.gif

you can do it with one hoist but it is more difficult and time consuming. I took my body off that way. Raise the front about 10 inches off the body, put a long 4x4 timber under the body and prop it up on both sides with cinder blocks or 5 gallon pails. Then go to rear and raise it about 10 inches higher than the front and slide a 4x4 under some part of the rear body and block it up. Then go back to the front and raise some more again. Once the body is up almost ready to clear the humps on the frame in front of the rear wheels, let most air out of tires and car will drop a few inches to clear. roll out frame. But most of all, be careful, move slowly, be patient.

Originally posted by bhawk:
you can do it with one hoist but it is more difficult and time consuming. I took my body off that way. Raise the front about 10 inches off the body, put a long 4x4 timber under the body and prop it up on both sides with cinder blocks or 5 gallon pails. Then go to rear and raise it about 10 inches higher than the front and slide a 4x4 under some part of the rear body and block it up. Then go back to the front and raise some more again. Once the body is up almost ready to clear the humps on the frame in front of the rear wheels, let most air out of tires and car will drop a few inches to clear. roll out frame. But most of all, be careful, move slowly, be patient. That's exactly what I planned to do except only 8" at a time. I know it will take a while, but this should be the easiest way. I was planning on using a tow strap to lift the body with. I'm going to use 4 cinder blocks on each side, front and back (16 total) and then have a double 2x6 beam (10' lg) (front and rear)to span across the cinder block columns which will give me a total support height of 37 1/2" from the shop floor to bottom of body. thanx bhawk graemlins/waving.gif

When I removed the body I did the jack method about 6" front and back just enough to deflate tires and roll frame out. You don't need to go that high. It was okay and worked well but took a little time. When installing the body I had four guys lift and one to align pinch weld to frame. It's really light if totaly gutted and I feel safer. Took about 2 minutes to lower once frame was under body again. Next time I'll just call my buds over.

lots of different methods that work..................Have fun!

I used a chain instead of tow strap, but that should work. At the rear of the body, you want to grip as far to the outside on each side as possible to increase stability. I removed my tail lites, bolted a flat square into the hole using the 4 bolts holes, and made a braket in the center of the flat square onto which I could hook the chain. In hindsight, I am confident I could have put the hook on the chain into the tail lite hole and lifted away from there. But to avoid scratching paint I made up a lift bracket. At the front I put the hook at each end of the chain into holes in the cowl near the front body mount bolts. Lifted great from there and never seemed to scratch the paint. Gook luck on the lift.

Thanks again and lots of great advice as always. I am planning on leaving the chassis under the body. I will be working on the underside of the body most of the time and wire brushing/grinding the chassis in preparation for POR-15. I figure with 37+ inches, I can just scoot under there and access anything on the chassis or body at anytime.
:cool: Could I lift the rear by attaching to the trunk hinges (bolts) ? That would seem to be a strong point to attach to. What do y'all think ? :D

Some guys use a 2x12 under the drunk pan and remove the pan plugs as a lifting point. You can fix a chain to the 2x12. I've never done it but have seen it done. I would have to take a closer look before trying it myself.

Originally posted by hilljack:
Some guys use a 2x12 under the drunk pan and remove the pan plugs as a lifting point. You can fix a chain to the 2x12. I've never done it but have seen it done. I would have to take a closer look before trying it myself. I'll look at that tonight. Sounds like a good location for lifting.... ;)