Does the polygraphite really keep them from squeking? or should i just get the regular poly from summit or jegs? Is there anyone else besides pst that sells the polygraphite? Where can i peace together the peices that i need, i already have the uppers and tie rod ends etc.. So i don't need the kit from pst? All i really need are lower bushings, swaybar links & bushings and bumpstops. Thanks in advance
Dave

Get greasable bushings. That way, if they do squeak, you can shut them up. With the graphite bushings, they are not greasable, so if you don't get enough grease on them when you install them, they will squeak and there's nothing you can do about it.

I hope these are for the front and not the rear!?!?

Get greasable bushings. That way, if they do squeak, you can shut them up. With the graphite bushings, they are not greasable, so if you don't get enough grease on them when you install them, they will squeak and there's nothing you can do about it.

I hope these are for the front and not the rear!?!?

Why not the rear?

Polygraphite does NOT squeak for me, had them in for years.

Or at least, if they DO squeak, I can't hear them, even with the engine off. When I've put regular poly on I could hear them when driving, and they would make noise just by bouncing the car.

Why not the rear?

You don't want Poly in any configuration in the rear because it is too stiff and prevents the converging 4 link from moving freely enough to allow appropriate suspension travel.

The factory rubber actually performs better in the rear due to its ability to flex as the suspension moves.

You don't want Poly in any configuration in the rear because it is too stiff and prevents the converging 4 link from moving freely enough to allow appropriate suspension travel.

The factory rubber actually performs better in the rear due to its ability to flex as the suspension moves.

As long as the rubber bushings are fairly new and have not been subjected to a lot of abuse. If rubber bushings are used, look for the Moog high durometer versions which contain a more dense rubber and don't wear out as fast.

Another alternative is to install poly bushings in the lower control arms and a combination of poly and rubber in the upper control arms (rubber in the axle housing end and poly in the frame mount end) which provides a combination of the advantages of poly and still provides some flex in the system to reduce the dreaded bind issues.

I have all poly in the rear of my '65 coupe and have never experienced the squeaks, "snap oversteer" or other ill-handling effects reported by others. They were a substantial improvement over the slightly used (only 7k miles but 15 years old) rubber bushings they replaced and did not create a harsh ride as also reported by others. I used Energy Suspension bushings and installed them with generous amounts of the thick grease supplied with the bushings in the locations recommended by the manufacturer.

The '65 wagon project will receive the 6 & 2/poly & rubber method I mentioned above since it will be given a slightly lower than stock stance.

As long as the rubber bushings are fairly new and have not been subjected to a lot of abuse. If rubber bushings are used, look for the Moog high durometer versions which contain a more dense rubber and don't wear out as fast.

Another alternative is to install poly bushings in the lower control arms and a combination of poly and rubber in the upper control arms (rubber in the axle housing end and poly in the frame mount end) which provides a combination of the advantages of poly and still provides some flex in the system to reduce the dreaded bind issues.

I have all poly in the rear of my '65 coupe and have never experienced the squeaks, "snap oversteer" or other ill-handling effects reported by others. They were a substantial improvement over the slightly used (only 7k miles but 15 years old) rubber bushings they replaced and did not create a harsh ride as also reported by others. I used Energy Suspension bushings and installed them with generous amounts of the thick grease supplied with the bushings in the locations recommended by the manufacturer.

The '65 wagon project will receive the 6 & 2/poly & rubber method I mentioned above since it will be given a slightly lower than stock stance.

Thats why I asked becuase I have poly in the lowers, in the front uppers and rubber inthe upper rears, and dont see any problem at least the wheel hop went away, by the way the only reason I didnt replace the rubber in the housing was they just wouldnt come out and had no cracks in them - dumb luck

Thats why I asked becuase I have poly in the lowers, in the front uppers and rubber inthe upper rears, and dont see any problem at least the wheel hop went away, by the way the only reason I didnt replace the rubber in the housing was they just wouldnt come out and had no cracks in them - dumb luck

Even though the rubber looks okay it might still be soft. But if you aren't getting any wheel hop they are probably doing okay. If you want to try again, they can be pushed out with a ball joint press or you can drill out the rubber, drive out the center sleeve and then with a chisel you can collapse the outer sleeve and tap it out. The new bushings can be pressed in with a ball joint press. I've seen folks drive new ones in with a hammer and wooden block but I don't know if this is really a good idea. It is a really good idea to clean the bushing mounting hole really good to remove any rust, paint or other crud which will make inserting the new bushings really difficult.