Is there any trick to this, or precautions by using air into the spark plug hole to hold valves in place as you remove the valve springs with engine together and in car...I'm sure it is done all the time to install inner valve springs after cam break in.....I have the adapters and hose and compressor, is there a certain pressure to use..Thanks

Regular shop air at least 100psi will do it.
Take it easy

I'm changing valve springs right now and I'm using 90 psi and no problems. The only problem I had was on the driver side on cylinder number 5 I could not get the air hose on because of to little room on my 70 big block. I was able to jury rig something to make it work, though.

Bart

I'm changing valve springs right now and I'm using 90 psi and no problems. The only problem I had was on the driver side on cylinder number 5 I could not get the air hose on because of to little room on my 70 big block. I was able to jury rig something to make it work, though.

Bart
Oh man, forgot about something like that, those dam headers may be in the way (hooker) I've only have 90 psi also

About 13 years ago, I got stranded in W Indiana on 80/90 with a broken valve spring on my 85 GT Mustang (too big a cam w/stock springs). I got towed the next morning to a shop, and the guy rotated the cylinder to TDC, and fed string (about 3/8" dia nylon) into the spark plug hole. It kinda scared me, but it actually worked

Rich , Buddy,

How many times do I have to tell you. YOU DON'T NEED TO REMOVE THE VALVE SPRINGS TO ADJUST THE VALVES !!!!!!

In your PM to me about this I thought I made it clear on the procedure, and now I stumble on this thread??? Do what you want, but stop wasting my time with the PM's if your gonna post something like this...........

Rich , Buddy,

How many times do I have to tell you. YOU DON'T NEED TO REMOVE THE VALVE SPRINGS TO ADJUST THE VALVES !!!!!!

In your PM to me about this I thought I made it clear on the procedure, and now I stumble on this thread??? Do what you want, but stop wasting my time with the PM's if your gonna post something like this...........
LOL, you ain't right Bro !!!! You need help

About 13 years ago, I got stranded in W Indiana on 80/90 with a broken valve spring on my 85 GT Mustang (too big a cam w/stock springs). I got towed the next morning to a shop, and the guy rotated the cylinder to TDC, and fed string (about 3/8" dia nylon) into the spark plug hole. It kinda scared me, but it actually worked
Thats right , heard of that too. MUST be on top dead center , piston up on stroke and use a rope that doesn't fray apart..

As an added precaution, run the piston up to TDC......just in case.....


Cam

About 13 years ago, I got stranded in W Indiana on 80/90 with a broken valve spring on my 85 GT Mustang (too big a cam w/stock springs). I got towed the next morning to a shop, and the guy rotated the cylinder to TDC, and fed string (about 3/8" dia nylon) into the spark plug hole. It kinda scared me, but it actually worked

I did this myself a couple years ago. I was stranded at work with a broken valvespring, and a clothesline was the best I could find. I didn't have it at TDC though, maybe 1/4 of the way down. I stuffed a bunch of the closeline in there, and then rotated the engine by hand, until the rope was smashed up against the valves. Worked great!

As an added precaution, run the piston up to TDC......just in case.....


Cam

This is true but if it's not right on dead TC, the air pressure will push it to BDC. Also if the car is a stick, make sure it's in neutral. If it's not, and you happen to roll the motor over, you'll run yourself over. Ask me how I know ;)

And if you are really cautious(or paranoid) then a couple of clothespins on the stems after you get the springs off are a good fail safe.

This is true but if it's not right on dead TC, the air pressure will push it to BDC. Also if the car is a stick, make sure it's in neutral. If it's not, and you happen to roll the motor over, you'll run yourself over. Ask me how I know ;)

And if you are really cautious(or paranoid) then a couple of clothespins on the stems after you get the springs off are a good fail safe.


LMAO When I was a kid, we had a drive in basement. Directly in front of the parking was a framed wall, with my bedroom on the other side.

@ 19yo , 79 malibu , wall was never the same LOL

Good thing there wasn't room in front of the car for me to stand :D

I've used the ski rope trick many times. It bite me once when the rope got pinched by the valve and got cut off. I had to pull the head.

I use small rubber vacuum hose, about 1/4" O.D., to stuff in the cyl. Works great.

after being told, I used a piece of spark plug wire about a foot long. Worked like a charm :D

I use nothing at all to hold the valve up, teflon valve seals are enough for me . . .

Now if you are changing the valve seals or removing them to get valve spring shims on or off, you had better hold on to the valve somehow when you pull the seal. Either with your finger (and have everything you need within easy reach) or use the air or string method.

Might be a little risky for some, but I've done it that way several times. It's a pain messing with string, air pressure, etc. IMO

PS. and you do not need to remove the retainers and springs to adjust the valves, just the oil pan ;)

PS. and you do not need to remove the retainers and springs to adjust the valves, just the oil pan ;)
Thanks BUT, I already new that...:)

Have a group of buddies come over and help you roll the car over onto its roof. As long as gravity works where you live, than the valves should definitely stay in place after removing the springs and such. You dont even have to remove the oil pan if you do it this way, nor do you need to fiddle with any air or rope either. Yeah....I know....Ive got it all figured out! Hehe.

Have a group of buddies come over and help you roll the car over onto its roof. As long as gravity works where you live, than the valves should definitely stay in place after removing the springs and such. You dont even have to remove the oil pan if you do it this way, nor do you need to fiddle with any air or rope either. Yeah....I know....Ive got it all figured out! Hehe.
Greg, you got to be joking Dude, I rather pull the pan, think I'm nuts or something...;)

Yeah...but once you pull the pan, the whole bottom end falls out of the motor(unless you have found another creative way to keep all the rotating components in place...in which case Im listening), and then after that, once everything is out you might as well put in new bearings while your there cause its just the smart thing to do....but the biggest problem is finding out what goes where after it all falls onto the floor....so before you know it, your rebuilding the whole thing cause it can easily get too confusing trying to figure out whats what in the pile of parts. Eh well....to each his own. I always flip em to be safe. If your real worried about scratching the paint....get a few extra friends so they can hold the car up the whole time your working. Its an even better idea to ratchet strap the car to the garage door tracks so they dont have to hold it the entire time your working.

Use air in the cylider and the rope to hang yourself if the valve still drops.

Use air in the cylider and the rope to hang yourself if the valve still drops.
LOL

I like the plug wire fed into the cylinder on the compression stroke. Dummy proof. Which is why I use it!

Also learned hard way ( almost too hard) to keep a stick car in gear when filling a cylinder with air. Why? It will roll the motor over and you could have a problem! Worse then being run over at 2 mph, that is.

I'll take the rope.

I like the plug wire fed into the cylinder on the compression stroke. Dummy proof. Which is why I use it!

Also learned hard way ( almost too hard) to keep a stick car in gear when filling a cylinder with air. Why? It will roll the motor over and you could have a problem! Worse then being run over at 2 mph, that is.

I'll take the rope.

Just use the coil wire. That what if the car does bump over(and you left the ignition on to listen to the radio) it doesn't run your a$$ over at 20 mph

When I was 16, I got a job at a Goodyear service center. After hours, the first week I was there, I got volun-told to help the boss change the radiator on his Toyota 2WD pickup. No problem, being the go-getter new guy, I turned the ignition to "on" to unlock the steering wheel so we could push it on the rack. Well, about 30 sec later, the boss turned the key also, with it in 2nd gear. Yup, it started. So superhero boss jumps in front of the truck to stop it. It worked, only after pushing him into Cornwell's biggest two story penthouse tool box(only about 2 days old, and not even near paid off), and pushing everything into the wall. Talk about laughing on the inside!!!

Rich, I think you should flip your car upside down one some of your world famous wooden saw horses. Then proceed to do the hymlick manuver on your valve springs. And if dosent work get Harry over their to help you. Atleast he can drink your beer and shore up the saw horses,LOL

Rich, I think you should flip your car upside down one some of your world famous wooden saw horses. Then proceed to do the hymlick manuver on your valve springs. And if dosent work get Harry over their to help you. Atleast he can drink your beer and shore up the saw horses,LOL
Harry can't help. he is in church praying for forgiveness to Al...

Lmaorof!