o.k. this isn't a chevelle, but almost. my 71 cutlass darts to the left under braking. i don't think it's alignment, because, i can actually feel the brake biting, and the car tracks straight down the road. now, recently i replaced the master, blew out all the old fluid and replaced, and rebuilt the calipers. all air bled from all lines. the first 5% of the pedal, it slows straight, next 40% of pedal it jerks to the left, then evens out again. any ideas? this is driving me nuts.....

I'm no expert by any means but, obviously the issue is with the front brakes, (I know it's obvious) the rear is probaly all that is engaging with the first "5%" of the pedal. Sounds like you might still have some air in the the right caliper.

Also, just for safety sake, check things like idler arm and tie rod ends for wear or slop. Wouldn't be the first time one of those were suddenly found to be bad. ;-)

I'm no expert by any means but, obviously the issue is with the front brakes, (I know it's obvious) the rear is probaly all that is engaging with the first "5%" of the pedal. Sounds like you might still have some air in the the right caliper.

Also, just for safety sake, check things like idler arm and tie rod ends for wear or slop. Wouldn't be the first time one of those were suddenly found to be bad. ;-)

so far, i haven't really looked at the front end. i've had cars in the past that alignment created problems, but this car rides like a dream, doesn't roam, tracks straight, corners well, no odd wear on the tires, etc. but being i'm running out of stuff to replace, i might have to check other avenues.....

Even though there's no shudder, have you checked for warped or scored rotor or bad bearings on that side?

Even though there's no shudder, have you checked for warped or scored rotor or bad bearings on that side?

bad bearings might be an idea. also, i know a lot of people don't actually torque thier bearings, so it could be too tight or too loose. i was thinking of checking them this week end......

Sounds like it could be a deteriorating RF brake hose. Pretty classic symptom of this, though it could be something else. Replace all 3 rubber hoses if they are old.

Even though there's no shudder, have you checked for warped or scored rotor or bad bearings on that side?

That's what I was thinking. If you have a bad bearing or a warped rotor, the disc will push the pads back a bit further than it should. This will cause that brake to engage a bit later, but will work normally once the pads grab the rotor. If it pulls to the left, check the right side.

I also would think of checking the rf brake hose if it is pulling left
or a bad bushing
causing the caster angle to change under braking

or a bad bushing
causing the caster angle to change under braking

The brakes on my brother's car were pulling just like that. We couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes, but we finally found that one rear shock was totally shot. We changed both rear shocks, and the problem went away.

Front Calipers = 92.00
Front Races, Bearings, Seals = 23.00
Two New Front Brake Lines = 26.00
Two New Nuts, Pins, Washer, Grease Caps = 13.00
Three Quarts Of Brake Fluid = 15.00
Completely Pulling The Rear Brakes And Reassemble,completely Bleeding The Brakes System Four Times, Countless Man Hours = No Time With Family


Having Your Brakes Still Pull To The Left? Friggin Priceless!!!!!!

how are all the bushings on the control arms
and what about the ball joints
by brake lines - did you mean the brake hoses
how are the steel lines - any crimps from maybe a foriegn object hitting it
how about the rear bushings
does it pull left when hitting the brakes then to the right when you let off
did the calipers bleed with ease from both sides
could the steel line on the passenger side have corrosion in it since the bottom right out of the junction block has a sort of trap for debris buildup within the line
let us know what you find

90% of the time brake pulls are due to alignment or worn suspension peices. Early GM vehicles love to spit control arm bushings.

Front Calipers = 92.00
Front Races, Bearings, Seals = 23.00
Two New Front Brake Lines = 26.00
Two New Nuts, Pins, Washer, Grease Caps = 13.00
Three Quarts Of Brake Fluid = 15.00
Completely Pulling The Rear Brakes And Reassemble,completely Bleeding The Brakes System Four Times, Countless Man Hours = No Time With Family


Having Your Brakes Still Pull To The Left? Friggin Priceless!!!!!!
That's not a guarantee the parts aren't deffective. At one time a local venders reman parts were so bad, I kept the box beside the vehicle I was working on just so I could sling the junk right back in. I'd ask for another set of calipers and the best hoses they have. Some parts vendors have "good " and "cheap".

That's not a guarantee the parts aren't deffective. I'd ask for another set of calipers and the best hoses they have. Some parts vendors have "good " and "cheap".
Waste of time. VERY unlikely after replacing all those parts that it still has the same exact problem and it's caused by the same part that was replaced being defective as well.

I had the exact same problem with my 2 wd blazer, I changed the master, calipers,pads,I even swapped out the prop. valve. as I was under there I noticed that you can bleed the brakes, but the caliper wouldn't release. Turns out the brake line collapsed inside, would let the fluid flow one way under pressure. Jim

you guys are making plenty of sense, and i have to do some more hunting to figure it out. the reason i felt it wasn't the alignment was, the brakes work evenly for the first 5%-10% of the pedal, then it pulls left with a jerk, then it evens out again around the 30%+.

i replaced the pads, calipers, brake lines (hoses), master cyl, bearings, races, and seals. so now i have to start following the lines to see if something got crimped, or cracked. even the shocks were replaced a couple weeks back, so everything that would be logical, is exhausted. so now i have to trace and see if something i installed is defective, or if there is something hidden and not readily apparent. i'm giving it a few days rest, and give it a fresh approach over the weekend....

I'd be willing to stop by
but I'm a few too many miles away :D

I'd be willing to stop by
but I'm a few too many miles away :D


DUDE, IF YOU LEFT TODAY, YOU'D MAKE IT FOR LUNCH SATURDAY....

DUDE, IF YOU LEFT TODAY, YOU'D MAKE IT FOR LUNCH SATURDAY....that would be one fast car
'cause you ain't gettin' me on no friggen plane man:D

that would be one fast car
'cause you ain't gettin' me on no friggen plane man:D
Weenie!

change the rf brake hose,,,duh.

change the rf brake hose,,,duh.he did that... duh

nice cars there P
I see you went for that 72 huh

Go and have the alignment checked. If the sum of camber and caster on the left side is lower than the right or the sum of the right is higher than the left is more than 1-degree it is possible to cause a brake pull. Generally it is quite a bit more out than this but caster and camber can cause you to stop slightly straight and when more pressure is applied cause the wheel to jerk to one side and the vehicle pull. Try looking at the wheel from each side of the vehicle, check and see if one wheel is farther back towards the door than the other. If there is a visible difference than your caster is off causing the vehicle to pull. If you have replaced all this and had the problem before hand you have worn control arm bushings causing the control arm to shift while braking or your alignment is out severely. GET IT CHECKED---IT IS YOURS AND OTHER DRIVERS LIVES AT STAKE. You aren't alone out on the roads. safety needs to be first

well, finally got the car up on a decent lift this a.m. and, it is the a-arm bushings. i haven't been driving the car, and i won't again, till the parts come in.

just to let you know, midas wanted over $700 for parts, and over $700 for labor, plus $60 for alignment. i found a kit, for under $200, that and a alignment will be under $300. i know it's a ton of work, but my buddy lance-w, is going to talk me threw it. man i'm dreading this. from looking at my manauel, it's more work than i've done on a car. this looks to be a grunt orientated job......i'm not bashing midas, but i thought $100 an hour for labor, was a little steep.

i don't mind paying people for thier expertise, but i thought $1,600 was a little out of line. so i'll spend the extra time, and do it myself. luckily i have friends that know what they are doing, and i'll get to learn something i've never done.....

harley,
the upper arms are a piece of cake.
i have read where you can replace the lowers without removing the control arm.
never have done it this way myself,though.
david

I do uppers and lowers in the car in about 2 hours + the alignment. 1400 for parts and labor is beyond gouging, it is downright theft. You should be able to find a shop that would do upper and lower bushings for ~650. Of course, you should be able to do the full set in a day pretty easy on your own and pocket the difference.

just whatever you do - make sure the springs are released properly when removing the lower control arms
while the lower control arms are apart - you may want to replace the lower ball joints at the same time
and when you change the uppers - you also may want to change the upper ball joints and also install offset shafts (moog) - to be able to get more positve caster (better driveability)
all the parts should cost you between 200 and 250
then if you want to change springs at this time - it would be the best time to do it
then you have the shocks and swaybar links - still probably under 400 for everything
all depends how far you want to go with it
but if you have a (non-gauging) shop do the work on your control arms - it should only cost about 200 for labor if you take them off
just be very careful with those springs
the joke about spitting teeth like chicklettes is just to give you a mental picture about the danger there - but in reality if a spring flies out and hits you - death could result - so BE VERY CAREFUL

Thats a straight forward job. For Midas to charge that kind of money to do that is insane. But I wouldnt trust Midas for anything. I used to work for a few different Midas shops so I know. Dennis69 is right. I was thinking around 500 myself but for the kind of money Midas charges is rediculous. I wouldnt bring my car to Midas even if they were offering thier services for free.

700 dollars in parts? WTF were they selling you?

Thats a straight forward job. For Midas to charge that kind of money to do that is insane. But I wouldnt trust Midas for anything. I used to work for a few different Midas shops so I know. Dennis69 is right. I was thinking around 500 myself but for the kind of money Midas charges is rediculous. I wouldnt bring my car to Midas even if they were offering thier services for free.

700 dollars in parts? WTF were they selling you?


THEY WANTED 120.60, FOR UPPER BALL JOINTS, 141.54 FOR LOWER BALL JOINTS, 60 FOR UPPER BUSHINGS, 122.24 FOR LOWER BUSHINGS, 40 FOR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS, 200 FOR SPRINGS, LINK BUSHING KIT 44, FOR BUMP STOPS 20, 60 FOR ALIGNMENT, 792.95 LABOR

THERE IS A COMPLETE REBUILD KIT THREW P-S-T FOR UNDER 200. EVEN BUYING IT THREW O.P.G. PART BY PART, I WOULD HAVE SAVED HUNDREDS OF $. BUT LANCE-W TURNED ME ON TO P-S-T AND THEY HAVE COMPLETE KITS, EVEN IF I BUY THE DEKUXE KIT, IT'S STILL ONLY $300.

SO THIS IS ONE OF THOSE TIMES I'LL BITE THE BULLET AND DO THIS. $1200 IS A LOT OF DOUGH I CAN USE FOR OTHER THINGS......

Thats a straight forward job. For Midas to charge that kind of money to do that is insane. But I wouldnt trust Midas for anything. I used to work for a few different Midas shops so I know. Dennis69 is right. I was thinking around 500 myself but for the kind of money Midas charges is rediculous. I wouldnt bring my car to Midas even if they were offering thier services for free.

700 dollars in parts? WTF were they selling you?I also spent alot of time working for mxxxs
we worked for commision
it was our job to sell a parapalegic(sp) roller skates (that was the mind set they would put you in)
calipers on every car and don't forget the hardware kits (even if the calipers already came "stuffed"
I would never take my car there for anything

$1200 IS A LOT OF DOUGH I CAN USE FOR OTHER THINGS......

You can say that again! Plus, the increase beer drinking time with buddies you've fooled into help you out is going to be priceless. :thumbsup:

Joe

I had a old datsun truck that would shake real bad, I had my wife take it to midas for a alignment check, they tried to sell me seperate inner tie rods and outer tie rods even though on that year truck they were one piece! Jim