i need help on which primers to use. I am going down to bare metal. I want to use ppg products but am confused on what to use.
PPG suggested to me the following:
1. Bare Metal
2. etching primer
3. DP50LF with catalyst
4. body filler
5. K36 or 38 with hardner

are they wanting to just sell more product or what. I have seen alot of different postings from alot of people and also tech articles saying not to use the etch and some saying to useit and so on with the other products. where do you put filler if not using these steps. and also what is the purpose of the middle primer if this is the best combo around. I dont mind spending the money if it is necessary and will provide me with the best results but dont want to use any thing that i can get by without and get same results. PLEASE HELP me I need to start priming some panels soon. Things have advanced so much in the past 10 years and very confusing also.

Thanks for all input
Jamie
67 ss 396 (please start putting me back together)

Acid based self-etching primer treats the metal and also creates a bonding effect.

1.Bare metal needs to be ground with 24 or 36 grit gringing disc to create the perfect atmosphere for body filler to bond.

2. Filler work,Let it cure a day or two for shrinkage after you think its good and straight.Here are a few tips. Get a tab of hardened body filler from the paint and body store for what the color the filler should be with the correct amount of hardener.The longer it takes to cure the better,but too much makes it brittle,so dont add abunch of hardener to speed up the process-not enough and you have a glumpy mess to grind off.After body filler theres a good product made by a few diffent folks called Polyester Finish Glaze,or Metal Glaze(same stuff)this is very nice stuff for getting your filler area super straight without alot of elbow grease.Unless you have alot of experience dont use air tools with this stuff BLOCK SAND IT by hand

3.Self-etch(you dont have to spray the filler area-just up on it)

4.NCP 250 or K36 or 38 High build or whatever you prefer( they also have a spray polyester that can be sprayed up to 1/4 inch thick-dont recommend lots of hand blocking), block sand NO WATER SANDING-DRY you dont want to put moisture on a panel

5.wet-on-wet sealer then spray or sealer then dry sand 400grit to get out imperfections (ncx 255 can be used either way primer and sealer also good stuff)dont break thru to metal.if you do you have to cover it back up.Also the color of your car will determin what sealer to use.You might have to tint it so you dont have to spray a kazillion gals of base on your car to cover up the color of sealer.

6.DBC is the best,DBU makes a gravely look under clear.Or you can single stage it in urathane.While using base coat the best method is to paint it as it were laquer,spray a few coats let it sit a couple of days(for shrinkage)sand it with 400 spray some more and repeat as many times as it takes to get all the imperfections out of the paint i.e. sand scratches,trash nibs,if you didnt get the arsehole ring out of the body work by block sanding you can eliminate some of this by block sanding with 400 grit but if its too much-back to step 4.

7. then on to clearing and finish sanding and BUFF BUFF BUFF