I'm in the process of doing a double frame swap. Two '66's side by side in the driveway. The goal is to use the chassis (Frt Disc's, new 12 bolt posi, 3" exhaust, suspension mods, etc. still intact) from my previously stolen Chevelle under the replacement body. Fortunately all of the bolts in the "good" body seem to be cooperative. The butchered body has not been so cooperative, the forward most pass side spun the the nut, but was at least accessible with the front clip removed and ultimately removed. The front driver side bolt straight up broke. The mount directly behind the pass rear wheel also has spun the nut, while it's counterpart on the drivers side wont budge.

I figured I'd ask for suggestions before I get under there with the grinder and just cut them off, right through the bushing.

Also, I have new polyurethane body bushings, they were a last minute next day air order to receive before the long weekend. I was limited to west coast distributors due to time Tuesday afternoon. Both OPGI and NPD were out of stock on the rubber bushings, so I got the poly's. Is this something that I will regret, or did fate work for me this time?

Rowdy

Can uou just cut them with a torch since you are not using the body? Or are you using it?

LK

Poly mounts will transfer a lot of road vibration to the body/floor. They're fine for drag or road track racers but I'd think they would make a cruiser less comfortable since they don't give very much or provide much cushion.

Cut a hole above the spinning bolt to gain access to hold the nut.

BUT FIRST, you might try to lift the body a little just to see if the bolt is actuall holding anything.

I cut a hole in my new trunk floor above a bolt that was spinning and found out later that the hole wasn't even needed because the bolt wasn't holding anything anyway due to a 2 1/2" hole rusted around the bottom of the bolt head in the structure under the trunk floor. :o

someone mentioned using a hole saw, in the precise position, above the spinning nut.they then plug the hole with a rubber or plastic plug of the correct size to plug the hole.
no welding necessary.
david

Thanks for the replies. The aforementioned troublemakers were ultimately cut with a grinder. I had, however, overlooked the mount bolts located over the rearend (just forward of the top of the rear spings). They, truly are a "female canine", almost completely obstructed by the exhaust.

I did drill a 1/2" hole over each bolt in order to saturate the nut with penetrating lube. I'm about ready to go give it one more opportunity to surrender peacefully. After that, I'm goin' medieval on it's arss. I was trying to avoid excessive butchery, especially on the parts that the thieves spared.

Dean, I inadvertantly tried lifting, that's how I discovered the final two mounts. Not that I would say RUST is luck, but no such luc. Both cars are 95% rust free. The old car has one hole in the trunk, in the corner of a gutter indention. I bet a swizzle stick couldn't fall through it. Primer completely plugged it for the last three years. The new car has multiple little holes in the two gutters on the driver side trunk> Thats' it for rust on both cars.

I'm off to assault my bastard bolts, wish me luck.

BERSERKER!!!!

Yeah, those 2 mounts are a bear to get to.