protecting body work/bare metal spots [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: protecting body work/bare metal spots


1966_L78
Sep 25th, 02, 4:28 PM
I plan on hopefully doing some stripping and minor body work on my car this winter.

The car will be in a carport, so not completely protected from the elements, but somewhat sheltered... I don't mind if I have to resand (lightly) the whole car before the final top coat (in the warmer spring).

The paint is peeling in some spots (5-6 different colors (repaints, etc). who knows how many coats...

There are a few bare spots starting to get surface rust (no rot yet).

What methods/products should I use to protect the metal as I strip and repair small body imperfections until I can applie sealer and top coat? I realize most primers are pourous, and I will not get around to top coat or sealer until at least spring. I'd also like something with a good pot life ( I have been told spray cans are a no-no (expensive too))...

What should I use on the surface rusted portions? Should I just sand is all down or apply some sort of rust converter? or both?

I plan on stripping it down to at least the factory top coat and bare metal for any areas that are worse. I was told that if the factory paint is adhering and not "checked" I did not have to remove it, as it will make a good base. Does this sound okay?

Car was originally marina blue, then black, then white when I got it (1985). I had some protions primered, and my brother (a housepainter) sprayed it red oxide primer over it, a few years later it got some brown house paint (over my windows and everything), and I have used the truck as a bench to paint small parts for my other Chevelle and various projects... Its not pretty, but mostly a rust free California car...

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"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
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1966_L78
Sep 27th, 02, 11:36 AM
anyone...

davisrus
Sep 27th, 02, 8:03 PM
I not an expert on this subject. It seems like every time I ask I get a different answer. The guy at the paint store ( Part owner ) said to use rattle can etch and then top with epoxy primer. Since then I was told that rattle can etch was only good for small sand throughs. There is alot of good info in the archives.

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rusty66
Sep 28th, 02, 4:22 AM
1966_L78. I am not quite sure I understand what you want. I think you would like to remove rust and inmperfections now, apply something to protect those spots in such a way you will not have to remove it again next spring?

Remove all of the rust in each spot you want, preferably by media (spot)blasting, spray a good etch primer and epoxy primer on that. Then cover it with spray paint. Remove this spay paint next sping and do your bodywork.
Hope this helps.

Rob


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www.si.hhs.nl/~rob (http://www.si.hhs.nl/~rob)

mr409
Sep 28th, 02, 8:43 AM
I would think even sandable primer would be good enough since it's under a car port. I would try that first since it can be easily removed or even left on when you get started again.

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Bob (Pa.)

1963 Impala 283
1966 Chevelle SS 409
1969 Malibu 307
1972 Malibu 307
1969 C10 stepside 350
1971 Cheyenne 20 3/4 ton
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