After looking at some pictures of some deatiled parts, I got to thinking, "Are these detail spray paints at all durable? Or, do they get scratched if you look at em funny, like with the old Rustoleum/Wal-mart brand spray bombs?"

I plan to detail all the underhood stuff and was curious as to your experiences with Eastwood detail paints and such. ALso, what steps do you guys follow when using spray cans? Anything special or just blast away? I can usually get a nice finish, but it seems like as soon as I touch it, it scratches. 'Course it could be the paint type, Krylon, Rustoleum, etc.

I would use POR15, but I'm now cursed and it refuses to co-operate, stick, or work right in general. (And the sad part is I've used it before with awesome results.)

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Eric Taylor
72 Malibu 350
"Be normal and the crowd will accept you. Be deranged, and they will make you their leader."

Well Eric, I've never had a problem with any of the Eastwood detail paints in ten years. For a lot of areas the prep work (priming, etc.) may be more important than the spray bomb itself. Particularly true with large smooth areas like inner fenders, underside of hood and so on. Not as important with rough cast pieces.

Just my $.02 worth.



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ACES #4241, TC #947
69 SS Sedan (http://www.angelfire.com/rock/69ss)
CanAm Chevelle Club (http://www.angelfire.com/folk/canam)

Eric,

Don is right. A paint job large or small is only as good as the prep work. Intensive cleaning first and foremost. Proper sanding or scuffing so the paint has a good surface to stick to.

I have used Duplicolor for a few small parts as well as some of the CastBlast and AlumiBlast with good results and durability.
With the Duplicolor I've only had good luck with the Laqure. The general purpose fell off, scratched and never seemed to dry properly.

Hope this helps.

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FastSS396Man
Brian

Fastss396 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fastss396manflqtr3.jpg), Fastss396 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fastss396manflqtr2.jpg),Fastss396 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fastss396manrrqtr3.jpg),
Fastss396 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fastss396manint1.jpg),Fastss396 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fastss396manint2.jpg),Fastss396 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fastss396mantrunk2.jpg),Fastss396 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fastss396manfrchassis.jpg),Fastss396 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fastss396manexh.jpg),Fastss396 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fastss396manengine1.jpg),Fastss396 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fastss396manrchas1.jpg)
69' SS396 Chevelle
L78 396/375hp
M-21 Close Ratio
Cortez Silver
10 year Resto
It's brand new again!
02' Harley FatBoy, Diamond Ice pearl.

The Eastwood stuff is as durable as you need it to be for the parts you'll use it on. I painted all my suspention parts including spindles, steering box, etc. with it and it held up pretty well, just be carful when assembling the parts, it wont survive a hammer blow. As mentioned, it all depends on the preparation. I sandblasted all the parts and adhesion was great.

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1967 Chevelle SS (Butternut Yellow!)