I painted the Elky the other day. The oem color name is "Bright Red", and they ain't kidding!

This thing glows!

I did the job under my carport.

Mistakes:
<UL TYPE=SQUARE><LI>Two runs<LI>One drip<LI>Accidentally touched paint with air line in one spot (90% of flaw flowed out)<LI>Some overspray on already drying paint caused a mild "orange peel"<LI>Forgot to mask tail pipes, so they're red on the outside edges[/list]

All in all it was a very rewarding experience.

Let me know if my plan is acceptable. I plan to wet sand the runs, drip, and overspray with 2000 grit paper, followed by buffing with 11" machine.

I'm not sure what I'm gonna do with the tailpipes. Probably just sand it out with a "flapper-sander" or something.

Even with the flaws, the car looks 1000 times better! I'll post a pic soon.

------------------
My Elky Page (http://www.geocities.com/chadjlandry/index.html) (updated 5-15-01)
"Think for yourself. Don't let popular opinion make your decisions for you."
Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #04556
'68 El Camino

[This message has been edited by cjlandry (edited 05-28-2001).]

Did ya clear it? If so blocking and polishing will make it look worlds better (sounds like you did a nice job to begin with) if not I have no idea.. Stay away from edges with the buffer as they have a tendency to "Grab and Burn" the paint right off! If you have serious peel you could go a little more agressive with the blocking (1500 grit) but be careful!

Clean the over spray off your pipes with laquer thinner. Sounds like you did a great job. Were all proud of ya.How many coats of paind did you put on? Thats what will let you know how much to sand. 3 to 4 coats no problem with 2000 paper. 4 coats go 1200 they 2000. should buff as soon as posible after painting while the paint is still soft and workable, other wise it gets as hard as sanding and buffing a stone.

It has 4 coats total. I laid it on pretty heavy so it would flow out well.

I don't know if "orange peel" is the correct term for the mist on top of the previously shiny paint. I'm thinking it's probably called something else since I've seen a car with bad orange peel and it was an entirely different animal.

It's gonna be a few weeks before I'm able to buff it, but I think it's gonna come out OK. If it doesn't, I'll just have to block the whole thing and clear it. I'm thinking about doing that anyway.

------------------
My Elky Page (http://www.geocities.com/chadjlandry/index.html) (updated 5-15-01)
"Think for yourself. Don't let popular opinion make your decisions for you."
Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #04556
'68 El Camino

[This message has been edited by cjlandry (edited 05-28-2001).]

I second all the information given by the other guys. You may also want to add a little dishwashing soap to your wet sanding bucket. This little trick has been used by many body men at my father's auto body repair shop and by myself included. For some reason it seems to make the strokes smoother and less abrasive, but still getting the job done.

Can't wait to see the pic!

Chad, Assuming the 4 coats were clear coat, my limited experience (per painter's recommendation) was wet sanding with 1500 grit on a small flexible rubber block til you get a consistent surface (wipe dry and check often), then buff with 3M Microfinishing compound on a wool pad (be careful-it cuts fast), then buff with 3M Finesse It II on a foam pad (clean the pad in water often), then hand buff with Meguiar's Show Car Glaze. It should really pop out.

------------------
von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575
My '69 SS (http://sites.netscape.net/von69ss/homepage)

Von, there's no clear coat. Just the red.

It shines like a mirror on most of the car, just not on the flawed spots.

------------------
My Elky Page (http://www.geocities.com/chadjlandry/index.html) (updated 5-15-01)
"Think for yourself. Don't let popular opinion make your decisions for you."
Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #04556
'68 El Camino

Then I suspect you are going to Block then Clear? Or is this a one stage paint? Either way your blocking will need to get done.. I would suggest if I understand what you are saying, that yoiu block with 2000 grit since you don't have peel, but some overspray. This will take down less paint. Another trick I've seen and should help you, is to use a squeegee (sp) on the freshly blocked area, this will show you high and low spots or other imperfections so you can concentrate on those areas. Remember do small sections at a time, and dry often.. Good Luck.. PS they make a special "Plane" you put a razor blade in to knock down drips with that might help you more in the run department!

It's single stage. I don't know if you can clear over it or not.

Anyway, I appreciate the info on the "plane". That will help on those spots.

This is a daily driver, not a show car, so I'm not trying to get that perfect. If I took it that far I'd be afraid to drive it.

------------------
My Elky Page (http://www.geocities.com/chadjlandry/index.html) (updated 5-15-01)
"Think for yourself. Don't let popular opinion make your decisions for you."
Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #04556
'68 El Camino

For Single Stage I would use 2000 and then buff.. Wait the recommended 90 days before waxing. and be real careful of edges when buffing! Did I mention be careful of the edges? http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif I was with a friend when they were buffing his doors for his kit car.. The "Professional" body man burnt through all 4 layers of clear in under a second of 1800 rpm buffing with mild abrasive compound.. Just some food for thought!

If you guys are afraid of burning the edges put masking tape over the edges, Then take it off and buff lightly. No problems.

Not take it off tape it ooooooofffffffffff!