jc67
Feb 17th, 03, 9:51 PM
anyone out there installed under rear seat floors? Got mine on the right hand side cut out laid the new one from ground up in there and fit like s*** where it is supposed to meet the inner rear fenderwell there is about a 2 inch gap now i have big probs. also should I butt weld these in hoping that I can fix this or just over lap then any tips are appreciated.
Thanks
Jamie
67 ss undergoing frame off
Randy Mosier
Feb 18th, 03, 12:22 PM
I'm working on a similar project right now. I found a rust free donor and cut only the section I needed. Now, are you sure you have rear seat floor pan? They also list a rear floor pan section, but it's the section where the rear passenger's feet would rest, as opposed to the area beneath the seat. The correct pan is around $200, and you can only get it as a one piece pan for the entire rear seat area. It's very easy to order the wrong pan. Let me know. If possible, post pictures of the new pan.
[This message has been edited by Randy Mosier (edited 02-18-2003).]
jc67
Feb 19th, 03, 11:06 PM
Randy I am sure that I have the correct part. I ordered it from goodmark industries. I didnt know that it was made in china, dont really care for that but they are the only ones that i know of that has this floor pan. I t fits ok every where else. Should I put seam sealer between the three pieces of metatl where it goes into the trunk. Man I need a new computer with a digital camera so that I can post pictures to get help. I also need to go ahead and become a team member. Thanks
Jamie <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Randy Mosier:
I'm working on a similar project right now. I found a rust free donor and cut only the section I needed. Now, are you sure you have rear seat floor pan? They also list a rear floor pan section, but it's the section where the rear passenger's feet would rest, as opposed to the area beneath the seat. The correct pan is around $200, and you can only get it as a one piece pan for the entire rear seat area. It's very easy to order the wrong pan. Let me know. If possible, post pictures of the new pan.
[This message has been edited by Randy Mosier (edited 02-18-2003).]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Randy Mosier
Feb 20th, 03, 4:09 PM
It sounds like you may have cut too much of your old floor out in the process of removing the old metal. I always tell people to wait until their new sheetmetal arrives before cutting out the old pieces. Is any of the metal from the old floor salvagable? If so, you may need to cut and splice the missing section from the old pan. Even if it's not from the exact same location, look the old piece over carefully to see if you have a good clean section with similar bends and curves that you can make do with. It sounds like you have a little fabricating to do.
jc67
Feb 20th, 03, 10:50 PM
Thanks Randy I do still have some old sheetmetal so I can work with that. Do i need to butt weld or overlap it there are drawbacks to both i think. I see that you are from ft.worth, Are you going to attend the super chevy show in ennis in may???
I am ready for that.
Thanks
Jamie
Randy Mosier
Feb 21st, 03, 2:59 PM
I generally don't like lap joints in that area unless you can get to it to weld it on both sides. A butt weld will suffice and will be less prone to corrosion.
I haven't decided on Super Chevy yet. I am going to the Fort Worth Rod and Custom show at the Amon Carter Center in Fort Worth next weekend.
[This message has been edited by Randy Mosier (edited 02-21-2003).]