I am doing my own body work in prep for painting. I am starting with the doors and deck lid. I have sanded them down and filled with filler where needed, however I have not been able to make them as smooth as I would like with the filler. I am applying the etching primer next. My question is this. I may put on k38 to help me build the surface better for blocking. Is there anything wrong with k38 instead of k36, and if not why wouldn't people use k38 all the time. Wouldn't it provide a better surface to block even if your panel was in very good condition.

Thanks
Terry

K38 is suppose to be a higher build primer. It's what I am going to use instead of K36. Seems like a better value and you'll get a higher build to sand down when blocking.

The tech sheet says to use K201 hardener but some places online don't have 201. So, I'm not sure if there is a different hardener to use????

Ok the diff on k36 vs k38 is basically the film build. 38 has a higher film build then 36, also its a higher solid content primer then k36 so it shrinks alittle less but will still shrink. Am currently working on a little experiment testing diff primers trying to find the best all around primer. Am testing ncp271, k36 w/reducer and wo/reducer, k38 and ph48 from S-W. Finding which primer shrinks the less and sands better in my eyes.

Anyway the big reason k36 is more popular is cause k36 can be used as three diff products in one. Can be used as primer surfacer, sealer and tintable primer all depending on how you mix it. Where the k38 is only a primer surfacer, so if you wanted to spary a sealer after priming or wanted a tintable primer, you would need to buy another product. As for the harderner you can use the k201 or du4 but you might want to look on current tech sheets as mine is from 99. I only use the k201...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

[This message has been edited by sevt_chevelle (edited 02-07-2003).]

Dont forget that you DO NOT WANT a smooth surface,such as 220 or 320 grit 80 grit is the way to go,it gives the primer a rough surface to bond to.Then block-block-block.....spray some more -guide coat block-block-Man my arms are already gettin tired.Also give it a day or two to "shrink" or you get that real freindly look as your goin down the street-wavin