Hi,
I am repainting my 68 chevelle i am painting it black with a base clear. Its getting done a professional paint shop, to cut cost i am helping with all the preperation and so on. There is some rust bubbles that need to be ground down and then filled. The body man said i will have to sell the car within 6 monhts or they will bubble again. Is there anyway to stop this with pore 15, or a similar product? the metal isn't rusted through or anything i can grind down to rear metal again but he said it will bubble back. I hope there is away to avoid this?

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68 chevelle malibu
370 horse 355 sbc

Your body guy is right that rust will bubble back in time might be a week might be year or two but it will come back.

Por15 is not might be used on exterior panels that get painted, only used for like floor pans etc, not fenders or quarters.

The only way and the only way to stop rust is to remove it. You have to cut out the bad metal and replace with new metal. You can grind all you want but you will not remove all the rust just remove metal and thats not what you want to do.

If the car was mine no doubt would I cut out the rust and weld in new patches. But since it is yours the best method to SLOW down the rust is grind away the loose flakes then with a wire wheel brush go over the area. If you are very very carefull you can take a hand held spot blaster and blast the rust. blasting the rust would be the best way but you can warp the metal real fast if not careful, work fast and take your time.

Now depending on how deep your pits are you might need some filler or you might be able to fill them with a primer surfacer or 2K primer. Now if you have to use filler you can go at it two ways, filler on metal or filler over primer and in this case I would go filler over primer. ONLY an expoy primer can be used under a filler nothing else period. But expoy on bare metal that is rusted sucks, so you need to apply a etch primer. Etch primer is a much better rust fighter. Select an etch primer that has vinyl in it, the vinyl based etch is better at fighting rust rust then the regulat etch with no vinyl.

Apply a two light coats of etch then a coat of expoy. allow the expoy to set up and cure for a good day, then come back and scuff up the expoy and apply your filler...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

ok thanks eric,

the rust is so minor though like little 2 inch squares around the body there is probably about 3 of them, and then along the welds of the patch panels there is bubbles. So i guess i could get someone to weld on a couple of squares or i could try i suppose?? But what do i do about the patch panel welds? the bubbles are right along the body line?? any help would be apreciated thanks alot

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68 chevelle malibu
370 horse 355 sbc

Rust along the patch panels huh. I bet those panels were lap welded together and not butt welded. A lap leaves a nice gap inbetween the two pieces for water to enter and form rust. And since you have disimilar metals touching the rust will come back even faster. that rust you see is coming from the inside no way to remove it. The cure is cut out the lap welded area and weld the two pieces together with a butt weld.

Not a easy cure but the only cure in my eyes, why waste the time and money to paint the car and in a few months or a year have those rust bubbles come back through. Spend the extra money now and save more later down the road, think about that...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

I am very confused about the whole lap weld deal?
If you look at a car body it has lap welds/pinch welds everyhwere. Most of these cars are 30+ years old and the lap weld/pinch welds arent all rusted through?
How did they do it back then and why cant we do it now?
I dont understand?????
T.C.