Reading MartinSr's post I need help understanding.

My drivers door is not lineing up at the rear on the bottom. it starts bowing out just below the door handle and gets worse at the rocker. the bottom lines up with the rocker though. From reading his post does that mean I need to twist it. Not sure I understand how to do that.

I was going to just start loosening bolts but i figured I'd ask first.

Looks like the problem was caused by a full drivers quarter that was replaced by a cheap body shop when I was young and dumb.

Thanks Chris

It may be fixable by bringing OUT the top of the front. The striker is a pivit point with the hinges being their control. If you bring in the top the door pivits on the striker and will make the bottom rear of the door go out. If you bring it out, the bottom rear will go in. You could also bring it in with the lower hinge by bringing it in on the hinge. Then you may need to re-align the fender.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

We found out it was much easier to align the doors by taking the striker off first. The striker tends to give you a false reading until it lines up. Then install the striker to fit the door. You can mark the outside of the large washer for a reference point, then move it as required.

It really works great.


Hope this helps.

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Team Members Forever #341

Richard, Judy, MAXX2

'69 Elke (Frame Off); GM HO 350/330-Mildly Ported Vortec Heads-Manley Severe Duty SS 2.02/1.60 Valves, Comp Cams Full Roller Package (Magnum)-Custom Grind CS 3315/3316 HR112-.510/.520 Lift, Edelbrock Air-Gap W/750 Performer Manual Choke-Performer 100 HP NOS, March Pulleys, 4L60 (Non Computer) W/Lokar Shifter, 12 Bolt Posi.

agree with MARTINSR make all adjustments at door to hinge. check a couple of things first. is bottom lower corner of front door edge even with rocker edge? if it is inside of rocker edge or even, leave it alone. if it is outside of rocker edge start there.loosen lower bolts pat bottom of door in and retighten. otherwise move to upper hinge, compare gap between windshield pillar and upper door (just in front of glass) from side to side if gap is much tighter on your bad side it's a good thing. be very careful to monitor clearance between front fender rear edge to door at all times, door opens inside of fender and can catch rear fender if you close all the way if you have adjusted too far out. (depending on gap to fender) when you loosen the upper bolts at door, the door will drop at rear. loosen only enough to allow movement in & out. mark existing hinge location with tape or marker. after loosening pat inside of door at hinge area firmly with hand,while watching your mark in relationship with hinge, the bottom of door will move in about twice the distance that you gain based on your mark. slowly tighten ALL UPPER BOLTS, try to maintain position of hinge to door. hinge to door can rock and allow door to drop at rear if you only tighten 1 bolt. slowly close door watching for clearance at fender and rear gaps. if it is a hardtop or convertible have window rolled down. if you gained ground repeat until satisfied. be sure to check glass clearance after you have achieved door fit.moving door out at upper hinge will also affect glass fit to pillar & roof. (wind noise, h20 leaks, broken glass from binding)you will learn as you go what works and what doesn't. as MARTNSR said the door is like a teeter totter through the centerline at striker. be patient, keep tweaking, have fun making it fit. NOTE check hinge pins for play by opening door 3/4 of the way, put your knee under it & lift rear of door with knee while watching hinge pivot pin for looseness.loose hinge pins will frustrate your efforts. plan B have friend lift rear of door while you view hinges. unless entire door gap to rocker is way too wide or way to tight, avoid loosening both hinges at once. if you do, entire door may reset itself down and you will have more corrections to make. there are still many tricks with boards & dollies to twist door to fit opening. always exhaust all adjusting options first. good luck! sorry for the length of this post. MARTINSR is much better at the "less is more" concept.

ditto LVMAXX comment do not use vise grip to remove striker,use proper allen wrench, be prepared to go fishing for retainer. if retainer cage inside of pillar is broken retainer will drop to lower front of 1/4. don't remember if your year has valve (plastic grille) in lock pillar. either way not tough to get to.

LVMAXX, you would only need to remove the striker if you were changing the height on the rear of the door. If you only want to bring in the bottom, it would not be needed.

more ambition than brains (it doesn't sound like it http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif), that is a VERY GOOD point that I missed, be VERY careful that the door doesn't hit the fender as it opens or closed when ever you move the door.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"