My brakes were done a couple years ago (MIDAS), they're starting to squeel, I think it's time for new pads? I have front disc brakes, someone told me larger rotors get better braking. True? Also... it's pretty easy to throw on some new brake pads isnt it? Do I need any special brake tools? :)

brake pads on a disk front will take you 5 minutes a side if you have the right tools. The right tools you will need consist of: a lug wrench, a big allen socket 1/2" I think, a caliper spreader or C clamp, a drain pan with some brakleen and finally a Jack and some jackstands.

Just spray one full can of brakleen on the assy befor you take it apart, remove the caliper, yank the pads out, spread the caliper and compress the piston back into the caliper so your new thicker pads will have enough room when you put it back over the rotor, then slap the caliper back in and bolt back up.

They may be noisy because they rotors are "glazed over". If the pads look like they have a decent amount of meat on them I would take an air sander with a light grit paper and put a non-directional finish on the rotors and with your hand sand the pads as well, not much just enough to take the surface off. Make sure you keep those dirty hands off the face of the pads and rotors when reassembling or they will squeel like a school bus! Also, you will need to push the piston in the caliper back in if you decide to put new brake pads on, there is a special tool for that or you can use a c-clamp. Good luck.

i think the allen head bolts on the calipers are 3/8".
david

They are 3/8".
Make sure the slides are lubed, and the orings are good. Check the inner pad clip and stake/cinch (http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/1980/cinching3kz.jpg) down the outer pad to the caliper. If the outer pad is loose, it will usually squeal.

Dont worry about larger rotors unless you are racing, boiling fluid, or melting hubcaps/clearcoat.

In stead of an allen wrench, you can get a socket attachment to fit the caliper bolts. This does make removing and installing the bolts a little easier ... Also, use the old pad on the piston side of caliper to push the piston back in ..it helps to equalize the pressure is applied to the piston...
As mentioned before, try to keep everything as clean as possible ...

One thing to add what's already been said, if you have had to top up the fluid lately there is a good chance the pads are wearing out, since the discs are self adjusting by moving closer to the rotor as they wear, sucking fluid out of the master cylinder. Also, if the rotors are not going to be turned I'll always "rough them up" to remove glazing with some fine emery cloth.

remove glaze on old pads by rubbing them on concrete driveway or slab, for rotors use green scotchbrite pads. be sure shims are on the pads, cinch them and apply anti squeal lube on pad back per instructions. Do not use brakleen before disassembly. maybe a little on the rotor after, but not before. you want to see where the problems might be and you would wash off any dust patterns. no emery cloth or sandpaper as that can leave fine grit on metal surfaces.