Tom S
Oct 4th, 05, 5:11 PM
A few months ago I pulled the 700R4 out of my sons car and sent it to be rebuilt. I reinstalled it and set the TV cable by hooking up a gauge and locking the cable at the point that the gauge just starts to show an increase in preasure. I think I had the car in neutral when I set the cable.
From the first test drive the car had a sound simular to the sound a flex fan makes and it seems to be coming from the transmission when the car is in drive and starting to accelerate. The trans does not make the noise at idle when in park. The sound could also be discribed as sounding like a Pete Jackson 'quiet' gear drive, just on the opposit end of the motor. You can only hear it from outside the car when he pulls away so I can't tell if it is in all gears. It shifts nice and does not feel like it has a problem. My only worry is if the cable is adjusted correctly because I know how fast a 700r4 can burn up.
Any ideas?
Tom
70GS455
Oct 4th, 05, 9:32 PM
Pump noise? Is it a 7-vane or 10 or 13 or what?
Dan72
Oct 5th, 05, 9:41 AM
Since you have a pressure guage and know where to hook it up why not measure your tv pressures at idle and full tv and verify your cable setting, then you won't have to worry about burning anything up. Putting the cable one click back from where the pressure starts to increase IS the right place where you want the tv plunger to be at idle, but if the geometry is wrong and you don't get full pull at WOT it can be as bad or worse then setting the starting position wrong. You need both conditions to be satisfied for the trans to work right.
Read this if you haven't already done so:
http://www.tvmadeez.com/
also
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104049
You should see at least 90-95psi at idle and upwards of 200-220 psi at full tv.
Tom S
Oct 5th, 05, 10:56 AM
Dna,
I used the carberator and cable brackets from Raptor Transmissions for a Holley so I assume the geometry is correct. It shifts correctly and feels right so I think the cable is not a problem. I was just wondering why it has that whinning noise.
Tom
Dan72
Oct 5th, 05, 11:37 AM
You need to try and correlate the noise with the actions of the car, that will narrow down the many possiblilities.
You say it happens only in drive so it is likely speed related not rpm related. That kind of rules out the pump, but you should verify that the noise doesn't appear with full tv pressure (which is heavy load for the pump). Try pulling the tv cable full out at idle, if the noise gets loud, it's almost certainly the pump. The older 7 vane pumps were somewhat noiser than newer 10 and 13 vane pumps. I also had a failed pump bushing that spun in the housing, that one sounded (and felt) like a noisy ball bearing assy. I also had a cracked flexplate that made a whining noise but really shook the vehicle at the same time, and once a convertor bolt backed out and was nicking the shield, that made a tink-tink-tink sound.
Could also be the convertor, I suppose.
If that isn't it, put the car on jack stands. Simulate some load with the brakes/ebrake and accelerate and reproduce the noise. (But don't burn up your brakes, if the noise appears take the brakes off and try agin, maybe you don't need the load to make the noise). If the noise appears try different gear positions and try and narrow down the symptoms to a specific gear/rpm/speed/whatever.
It also goes without saying that an ear should be kept to your u-joints, ring and pinion, axel bearings, rear brakes, etc. More than one person has suspected the tranny and turned out to have a disintegrating u-joint!
Keep us posted! Good luck!