Building a '48 Anglia and there is no floor or firewall. This car will also see a lot of 1/4 mile as it's getting an Enderle injected BBC. Any sites out there on building floors? Using aluminum tubs at the rear, and the doors and walls aren't a problem. Not sure of what gauge to use on the the different areas such as the firewall, tunnel, or the floors. But my real problem is getting all of this to seal or meet up with the steel body. I mean I'd like the firewall to be sealed up tight so I'm not hearing air whistling thru. How does the floor seal up to the rockers and so on. Are there any sites that show some of these details? Thanks, Bill

Great another gasser guy. I dont know of any sites but go to www.gassermadness.com (http://www.gassermadness.com) . Its a great site. I am also on the email list for it. Lots of great help and people. As far as sealing goes on my coupe all the tin is powder coated, we sealed it to the body with a caulking and it works fine. This is how my chassis builder does all of his pro cars and you really have to look to see where its sealed as it is a very nice job. My car has been 150 + and there is no whistling through the body and all, getting ready to take off the stack injection and go with a blower motor now to run in the 7's at 175+, so we will see if thats a difference. I cant tell you what gauge my tin is but its not real thick stuff.

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Micky Hale Restorations
69 L-89 Chevelle
68 Biscayne 427/425
34 Plymouth Drag Car
ACES #134
www.mickyhale.com (http://www.mickyhale.com)

You might check with the sanctioning body for the racing you will be doing to see what they require for firewall and floor thickness. Firewalls between the fuel cell and drivers compartment and the engine and drivers compartment may have to be steel. I wouldn't worry about whistling so much as what happens if an oil or fuel line blows off and sprays flammables onto the headers. It might not be good to have flaming oil spraying your feet and legs while blowing through the traps at a buck seventy-five.
Lots of cars I have seen will have a flange welded to the body or frame so that the floor will rest on it and can be riveted or Dzus fastened on (for removal)Firewalls likewise. The flange shouldn't be solidly welded, and have the joint sealed with silicone or flexible body seam sealer.
My $0.02.



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64 2 Door HT 6-230 and a 'Glide
Chevello's Chevelle Page (http://home.earthlink.net/~clipper21/)
Formerly 71 Elco
TC Member #1155

I didn't know that Anglias and Fiat Topolinos came stock! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

[This message has been edited by Cam (edited 03-26-2001).]

Thanks for the help. Don’t thing I’ll be hitting 175, but we’ll sure put her thru the top end with all she has. Car should weigh about 1800 with me in it. And funny Cam should mention Anglia’s and Fiat’s in the same sentence. Grew up in So. Cal., and fuel altereds have always been my favorites. But love the Anglia’s. So this is an Anglia stretched to 114”, without the hood or front fenders, just the grill. Slant top chop on the roof, with the rear fenders moved up 3”. Low and mean. Coil over straight axle out in front of the grill. The Enderle set up is the siamesed stack setup, can’t afford blown at this time. Engine is a 30 over 396, with Arias, BME, etc. Buddies want me to put this in my ’66, but ‘ya gotta have a cool tow car. Have no way of putting pictures on here, but if anyone wants Autocad files, I have designed her from the ground up, still in progress. Send me your email. Everything, the body, injectors, chassis, etc. Also have BBC and SBC, blocks drawn and dimensioned. Again, thanks for the help. Bill