for a pre assembled front disc brake kit.how much do you think a shop will charge to put it on my 70.

aw,
First problem will be finding a shop that will want to do it. Most repair shops dont want to fool with custom stuff like this. If you can find someone willing to do the job, I am betting it is a good days work ( 8 hours ), maybe more depending on the condition of your existing suspension, for someone who has never done it before. Most shops around my area are pushing close to $90 per hour so you do the math. Also, figure if they are not making any profit on the parts, they will probably want to charge a higher hourly rate, at least I would. I would bet on paying an easy $1000 by the time it is done.

If they know what they're doing, and if you provide a complete kit with prebent lines, all other hardware etc, it can probably be done in 4-5 hours. However, Murphy's law says that there will be some problems along the road, like rotted brake lines, parts that won't fit etc. Try to find a shop that has done this before, or at least a good brake/suspension shop, they should be able to give you a fair estimate. I'm just guessing, but I think you have to expect at least 8 hours.

If I only count the hours I spent on the brake swap on my car, it would probably be around 8-10 hours, as I made my own lines and also drained and flushed the system, changed rear cylinders and lines etc. If I also count the hours I spent cleaning parts, running to the parts stores for the correct fittings, correcting some minor problems etc., we are probably talking about a total of three long days.

wow more than i thought.thanks for the replies.

Other than some of the specialty tools, like a pickle fork, this is a straight forward deal to do yourself because it's mostly parts swapping and there are not too many pieces to deal with.

Wow, maybe I didn’t keep good enough track of my time … but there’s no way I was 8-10hrs on the front drum to disc conversion.

I however installed a whole brand new braking system (probably ~8-10hrs), which now that I think about it you’ll be close to also. Which by the way, I stand at about a $1000 for all my parts!

Anyhow, just to break it down. The front disc install is extremely easy, assuming they’re stock components. I didn’t deal with any aftermarket pieces, and can’t contest to how they will fit.

The rotor/spindle is easy. First thing is to secure your front coil spring, and don’t get hurt. I don’t use a spring compressor, but jack the car up from under the lower control arm (retaining spring compression), leave the sway bar hooked up (this helps keep the lower control arm in position), and then wrap a chain through the coil spring and around the frame (this will help keep the thing from killing you, if it did come out) … most of all, just use common sense and don’t let it hurt you.

Once the coil spring is contained, then remove the nut from the tie rod and remove it. If the tie rods are junk, go ahead and use a pickle fork. If they are good, you’ll probably tear up the tie rod boot and need a new boot (tie rod will be fine). If you have an air hammer great … if not, you will need a BIG hammer for the pickle fork. It takes a lot more than little baby blows! I’ve heard of people being able to bust loose these taper joints hitting them with a big hammer, I’ve tried and never been able to accomplish this … so usually end up getting the pickle fork anyhow

On the ball joints, I always just loosen the nuts so there is ~1/4” space between the nut and spindle … this is so when the joint comes loose, if there would still be spring pressure on anything it won’t come flying at you. I’ve always followed this method, and have never had pressure on the ball joint nuts when they came loose … but I’ll still always follow it. Other than that, the ball joint comes apart the same way as the tie rods. Oh yeah, if your stuff is too crusty to tell … the tie rod and ball joint nuts are castle nuts with a cotter pin through them, you’ll need to remove the cotter pin before they will move. Installation is just backwards from there.

To do all this work should be no more than 2hrs. From here you’ll meet your nemesis … old crusty brake lines! If you thought removing any other bolt on your Chevelle was difficult, you ain’t seen nothing yet … and the reason most shops will be skeptical about doing the work. Nobody can estimate how much time, or materials will be required here … and this is also the main reason I went with all new stainless lines and Raybestos hoses. In my opinion installing the new lines/hoses will save you money over horsing with the old stuff.

If you’re going with the old acorn looking proportioning valve … the brake lines will be bent up right. If you’re using a newer model combination valve, some bending and drilling will be required (extra labor). You’ll also want a disc brake style front brake hose bracket … your drum one can be filed out to work, but again it’s extra labor.

Anyhow, if you showed up with following items … I think a shop would do it in 6hrs labor.
1) Completely assembled spindle (disc rotor, caliper, pads, bearings, brackets, backing plate, etc)
2) New master cylinder (your drum one can’t be used)
3) New acorn proportioning valve
4) Rebuilt distribution block (you can use your drum one, mine was done at www.resleeve.com)
5) New brake lines
6) New brake hoses
7) Disc Brake hose brackets

Labor rates must vary widely also, as the restoration shop that I’m looking at for body work … does anything at $65/hr, and that’s higher end. Local general shops are usually $40-55/hr.

Anyhow, I’ve tried to outline it as best as I can. Anything less, and I don’t think you’d have a safe braking car.

If the cost is too high … I’d suggest either doing it yourself, it’s dirty but not hard. If you didn’t have any of the tools, $30 would surely be enough (3/8” ratchet, sockets, and a brake line wrench set). The other option is to rebuild your drum brake setup … I’m not for sure on cost, probable <$400?

Hope this helps with anything you have.
Neal

thanks for the input neal.

Neal covered pretty much everything, but there are a few things I would like to add:

-When removing the spindles, I always put supports under the A-arms (got some large wood blocks that are perfect for this purpose). Jack up the car until the A-arms are just an inch or two from the supports, and loosen the nuts one turn but leave them on like Neal said (this is very important for safety). With the suspension hanging freely, use the BFH to whack the spindle (preferably from the inside) right where the ball joint is attached. Take your time and aim well, you don't want to damage the nut or the thread. The spring pressure and the hammer blows will make the ball joint pop out after a few good whacks. I have never had to use a pickle fork to remove a ball joint, but I have had to really pound on some stubborn ones. Once they pop loose, lower the car so the A-arms rest on the supports, and you can safely remove the spindles. The springs can't go anywhere as the car will be resting on them, but the chain is still a very good idea while you're popping the ball joints.

-Get a set of GOOD flare wrenches. Messing will cheapos is a total waste of time. I bought some good ones at Napa (Napa brand) for about $20 each, and they are expensive but they really do work. The tolerances are so tight that you'll have to tap them on with a hammer if the fittings are rusted or damaged, but they won't slip. A great investment, IMO.

Edit: There's no need to remove the tie rod if you're using stock type disc spindles. Just unbolt the steering arm and leave it hanging on the tie rod until it's ready to go back on the new spindle.

You can use the drum brake brackets if you want or can't locate the disc brake line bracket. Use the front brake line hoses from a 69 camaro. Just another option. Pete

is there a reason you dont want to attempt this yourself? You would certainly save yourself a good chunk of change.

the main reason is i live in a apartment.

On mine using used spindles, backing plates, and caliper brackets, the rest new parts, plus also changing the ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, and centerlink & shocks. Took at least 10 hours, probably closer
to 12. If not already done you may as well do those other items at the same
time. Around here it's $80-95/hour. You could try to find a small non-chain shop that will give a discount for being able to work on it as time permits, over a week or two. I once had a timing chain done by a transmission shop, the guys there build race cars and things were quiet so they were happy to take the job, traded me for lettering for a racecar as pay.

I dont' know about you guys, but I know that as I pull mine apart, I am replacing the bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends. SO FAR, I have everything removed except the bushings, and NOTHING REINSTALLED, and I have 6-8 hours in. Alot of the time was spent screwing around with removing the coil springs. If I didnt replace the bushings, I'd be done by now.

I have to get the OEM bushings out
Clean the parts and paint
Reinstall the bushings
Reinstall the ball joints
Disassemble/ Paint the caliper and spindle
Reinstall everything
Bend up a few brake lines
Install master cylinder
Power test!

I had a nearby shop that specializes in custom work quote me $400 if I brought in all the parts