I have never done this before, so I want to ask some questions before I blow something up.

I have primed the oil pump, and oil came out the rockers on both sides. I also added a bottle of GM EOS. When I prime the oil pump and it comes out the rockers, does that mean I have also filled the oil filter? Or do I have to do that separate?

Motor is at TDC, and the distributor is in. This is what I am really curious about. Do I need to make sure the oil pump shaft in the dist is in before I fire it, or is this something that will fall into place on its own after one rotation? I can tell it isn't in because of how the distributor sits up a little bit. Seems like this would be almost impossible to do both at the same time.

on the bottom of your dist. is a slot that fits into the oil pump shaft if it is in properly.... your dist. will sit flat on the intake enough for your hold down clamp to bolt it down.. you might have to reach down with a long slotted screwdriver and turn the oil pump shaft so it lines up with the dist.it will turn easily

on the bottom of your dist. is a slot that fits into the oil pump shaft if it is in properly.... your dist. will sit flat on the intake enough for your hold down clamp to bolt it down.. you might have to reach down with a long slotted screwdriver and turn the oil pump shaft so it lines up with the dist.it will turn easily

Good advice. Also, unless you like caqrb fires and no starts, set your timing to spec BEFORE starting. When you're certain that the distributor is fully seated, rotate the engine by hand until the timing marks align where your initial should be. Then align the rotor with the #1 position on the cap. Keep in mind that there's no load load during initial start up and cam break-in so, in most cases, lots of initial is good. Once the cam is broken in you can set timing with a light. Also make sure that everything else is up to snuff. Double check ignition wire routing, carb adjustment, etc..

Thanks for the tips, fellas. The timing is already advanced some. Any more tips or am I just about good to go?

Get yourself a big fan to insure that you have some airflow while you are doing your break in..its gonna get hot.

Ahhh yes, I would've forgotten that. I have brand new ceramic coated headers...better get some fans pointed at them as well!! If they dont look quite as purdy afterwards, its OK by me.

Clark,
Make certain that your timing is set correctly and there is gas in the carburetor. You want the engine to start immediately. Many cam/lifter failures are caused by excessive cranking of the starter. Once the engine is started, run it at 2000 to 2500 RPM for at least 30 minutes, this will ensure that oil is splashed onto the cam and lifters during break-in.

Clark,
Make certain that your timing is set correctly and there is gas in the carburetor. You want the engine to start immediately. Many cam/lifter failures are caused by excessive cranking of the starter. Once the engine is started, run it at 2000 to 2500 RPM for at least 30 minutes, this will ensure that oil is splashed onto the cam and lifters during break-in.

So what is the outward appearance when the cam/lifter fails on initial startup and break in?

Get yourself a big fan to insure that you have some airflow while you are doing your break in..its gonna get hot.
Correct, engine overheating can be a problem when breaking in cams, see my posts here (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98447) on a way to prevent it.

WOW, that thread has a wealth of good info and tips I never thought of. Especially the one about filling with water through the thermostat area. I can see lots of air being trapped in the system without doing it this way and way too much heat being generated! I also happen to have a garden hose attachment that will provide a very fine mist.

I used good ol' distilled water to fill the radiator, and I have a 5 or 6 blade fan and a good ol' GM fan shroud & brand new 3 row radiator.

So what is the outward appearance when the cam/lifter fails on initial startup and break in?

Not sure exactly what you are asking. But the outward appearance of cam/lifter failure is always the same. Valve opening is diminished, power goes away, etc., etc.

Not sure exactly what you are asking. But the outward appearance of cam/lifter failure is always the same. Valve opening is diminished, power goes away, etc., etc.

Oh I was just for grins wondering what course a lifter/cam lobe failure takes if it happens when starting a brand new engine. Is it obvious like does it spit little shards of metal out the valve covers or is it a little more subtle in that it's something you don't really notice until you take it out and drive it around. Can it be confused with, say, a bad spark plug or a misadjusted carb? All this talk of cams and lifters failing when starting up a new engine just has me a little bit paranoid about the one I just started up.

As far as I know, usually you can tell pretty easily when you have wiped a lobe. When you go to final adjust your lash, and find one rocker nut runs down considerably further, you may have a wiped lobe. Or if you have a rocker you are continuosly adjusting tighter, that lobe may be gone.

Also check your oil filters for metal bits, upon start up you will have metal even if it goes well, but alot of metal shavings is likely a cam gone.

Jeff