Quarter panal question [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Quarter panal question


snydes
Apr 8th, 01, 3:59 PM
Hello,
I am restoring a '67 chevelle and would like some advice on sheetmetal replacement on the quarters. I have rot that is around the lip and the lower rear of the quarters, not all that bad for a 30+ year PA car, my question is what would be the best way to repair this in my situation. The car is worth the money to put on full quarters on if that is what it takes.
Just looking for some advice,
Thanks,
Steve

70isfine
Apr 8th, 01, 4:12 PM
Unless the rust is very bad, or the wheelhouse around the wheel opening is rotted I would say cut out the rot and weld patches in.I think a car with the original quarters(as long as there not full of filler) would be better.If you want to replace them i would only use full factory quarters.Theres nothing worse than opening the trunk and seeing a seam halfway down the quarter panel.

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70 chevelle,400cid turbo400.blue with silver stripes.
www.members.spree.com/entertainment/ochrisl/

67ss
Apr 8th, 01, 6:53 PM
If you can find original quarters then you are very lucky.When you do find them expect to pay an extreme price.The cheapest I've found so far is $900 a piece.Patch panels are ok if they are finished on the inside as well as the outside.Unfortnately originals are like gold.There is a panel that fits on the sail panel too.Not very far up on it but it does go that far and it has the trunk lip,rear tailight part and the area behind the door.I don't know how good they fit but I would be very interested.I hear Classic Muscle has them for $299.

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John 67SS
ACES #2887
Team Chevelle Gold #127

snydes
Apr 9th, 01, 2:10 PM
Here's another question for ya, I was pricing the wheel lip and lower rear patch panals, around $40-50 a piece. Now, Carlisle swap meet is coming up real soon and there are alot of venders selling half quarters, they average about $60-70 a side. Now what I am thinking is getting the half quarters and cutting out only the section I need of the lip and the lower rear. It would be cheaper and I wouldn't be working with two seperate patch panals. What do you think?

70isfine
Apr 9th, 01, 2:26 PM
Thats what i'm doing to,but i got my half free.The half quarters are about $200 each.Thats an expensive patch panel!

snydes
Apr 9th, 01, 9:00 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by snydes:
Carlisle swap meet is coming up real soon and there are alot of venders selling half quarters, they average about $60-70 a side. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

70isfine
Apr 10th, 01, 2:09 PM
never seem them that cheap.

snydes
Apr 10th, 01, 2:18 PM
I've bought a couple pair in the past, a pair for a Nova and for a camaro, all up at Carlisle, never paid more than $65 a piece. They are import panals, I put a pair on the Nova and was fairly happy with them, just didn't care for the trunk seam like you said and the amount of filler needed. Never put the ones on my camaro, I decided to get full quarters. So I figure for the price it would be cheaper to cut out what I need rather than get the seperate panels. Just an idea.

70isfine
Apr 11th, 01, 2:13 PM
If you can get them that cheap do it. The camaro sheetmetal is definatly cheaper than for a chevelle.I bought quarters for my camaro for 65 a side,but the last time i looked the chevelles were $199.

snydes
Apr 11th, 01, 2:33 PM
Well, if they are going for that much than I guess I will have to go with the individual patch panals. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif

Rods & Customs
Apr 12th, 01, 8:11 PM
If your wheel opening is rusted, then your inner fender is also rusted. There is a company called Wheelers that sells after market parts. They do have full after markat quarter panels for your car. I am not sure of the price, but I believe that they are under $200 a piece. I am not sure if they make inner fenders. If you have access to a wire-feed welder, the best way to install them with having a factory look is to set the quarter on the car to see how it fits on the BODY LINES. Most of the time the quarter is distorted above the body line. 99% of the time I butt weld it on that body line. The new quarter is cut on all body lines, on the front of the quarter at the door jam, the upper portion, the rear of the quarter where it wraps around. Then the quarter panel is fit to the car, held on with clamps, duck tape, or anything which will not damage the panel. Next with a red pencil, you trace where you are gonna cut. After panel is cut and fitted(do this w/ doors on the car, make sure doors lined up before cutting old panal off) tack-weld panel every 6 inches. The weld should be no bigger than one zap. All welds should be at least 6 inches apart. The panel should be cool before welding again. This process will take a long amount of time with professional results. When grinding your welds do not allow them to get hot. A 3 inch cut-off wheel with an 1/8 inch wide wheel works great. Make sure proper priming and rust proofing is done on the interior of the panel. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

snydes
Apr 15th, 01, 2:31 PM
So your saying that you will use a full quarter and cut away alot of it, like the jam and stuff? Wouldn't it just be easier to use the cheaper half quarters? Sorry I just need some clarification. I do have a good wire feed welder and know how to use it, just need to figure out the best procedure.

Rods & Customs
Apr 15th, 01, 9:47 PM
No, it is a full outer panel, it does not come with the jams. No, half quarters would not be any easier or better. The number one reason is that you want your weld to be as high as possible on the vehical. Reasons why not: more mud, more chance of warpage, and harder or impossible to get at all areas on the inside of the quarter to rust proof and prime. I have 25+ years experience in the auto body and paint industry. I own and opperate a Rods & Customs shop in Eau Claire, WI. One of my friends told me about Team Chevelle, he asked me to look and see if I could answer anyone's questions. This following week I am going to try to get some pics out on the internet, I am looking into doing videos on all areas of restoration and painting also. I am happy to help you.

snydes
Apr 16th, 01, 4:25 PM
I greatly appreciate your help, it's very helpful to be able to get professional advice on these questions. I think I know now what you mean, what you are saying is that the half quarters do not go up the the upper body line, which is where you want to make you seam because it's a high crown area (right?) that is easier to blend in, and is more resistant to heat warpage from welding. (I hope I'm on the right track!)
Steve

P.S. let me know when you get your site up!