ElCamino68Elky
Sep 27th, 05, 10:30 AM
Ive stripped the quarters on my 68 El Camino to bare metal with POR-Stripper,then after neutralizing the stripper with a good wash with a few drops dish soap & water and a good rinsing,next day I put two good coats of DP-90 Epoxy Primer on them and after about 3 or 4 days I started my filler work on them. As I was sanding my filler (long boarding) , I had taken off the Epoxy down to bare metal(surrounding areas). So im thinking when im done with my filler work I will have to shoot another coat or two of epoxy anyway on the entire area,is that OK ?? Next question is : I will be stripping the doors and hood to bare metal (using POR Stripper) ,but I dont want to strip the front fenders down to bare metal or use any stripper on them because I have done some repair work on them last summer and I know whats there and its good. So can I just DA the front fenders down a little witout going to bare metal and then shoot a couple of coats of DP 90 Epoxy Primer on them and then if theres no other areas that need any filler (dings) on them then I can shoot a couple coats of my NCP 271 Primer Surfacer on them and then block sand and quide coat,,block sand etc. ?? Thanks for Any Help Guys, Mark
TechNova
Sep 27th, 05, 12:31 PM
Shooting another coat of epoxy over the sand thru areas is the right way to do it. IMO one good coat is enough.
For the fenders, How much film build do you have already on them?
If they've been primed and blocked plus painted a few times you might be getting thick enough where it is best to go back to bare metal.
If not, I would DA them and then go over them with the NCP. I don't see a need to use DP over the old paint. By using the NCP you can block it out good with a guide coat and get it straighter then you could by just using a DA on the old paint and using DP.
Again, film build is a concern so at least DA them as much as possible without hitting bare metal or filler. A light pass to scratch it up gets adhesion but I would prefer to remove a littel material.
If your fenders are really perfect, then a wetsand with 800 followed by seal and paint will work.
ElCamino68Elky
Sep 27th, 05, 10:18 PM
Thanks for your reply Tech Nova. On the front fenders I will have to sand and see how many coats are on them,but I know theres the factory primer and at least one color,and gray primer over that. I am remembering back from last year when I did repair work on both front fenders. I did good filler work on them last year,but the filler was put on directly to the bare metal. I used duraglass then a good filler after that. The way Ive been doing the rest of the car is stripping,neutralizing,Epoxy priming,doing any filler work,then when filler work is done another good coat of Epoxy then NCP 271 Primer Surfacer. So I guess I should just strip the fenders all the way to bare metal like I did the rest of the car, and redo the filler because then I can apply the filler over the Epoxy and have peace of mind. By doing things this way I should not have to seal the car,CORRECT ?? since IM taking everything down to bare metal,epoxy,filler,epoxy again,then primer-surfacer,then block sand guide coat,and paint and clear. Is it OK to use spray bomb primers of a contrasting color ,say like Duplicolor or Plasticote ?? These primers should not cause any trouble at any time ,should they ?? Thanks Again for the Replys, Mark
TechNova
Sep 29th, 05, 3:21 PM
Is it OK to use spray bomb primers of a contrasting color ,say like Duplicolor or Plasticote ?? These primers should not cause any trouble at any time ,should they ?? Thanks Again for the Replys, Mark
A spray bomb primer or paint would work as a guidecoat since you are
removing it all anyway.
I use SEM Guidecoat Black #38203. It is a little thinner and gets down in the sandscratches better. Some of the cheapy black spray bombs are to thick and tend to rub off prematurely, giving you the impression that it is sanded enough.