I am going to be moving soon (a few months), and figured getting my Chevelle "running"/driveable would be the best choice (as opposed to trailering a non-running car, and a separate engine, etc)...

So I am dropping in a running 396, but I have NO engine compartment wiring, the under dash harness also needs to be replaced, or some splicing.

Funds are tight for the house move, SO...

I am thinking of wiring up a few switches to turn on ignition, starter and headlights (probably just two, but doubt they'll be used). No key, no accessories... Basically something I can drive across town, and moving on/off a trailer and into a yard under its own power...

I also plan on wiring the brake lights too...

I need advice, and a check on my logic here, please...

I figured running a supply line from the battery to a panel on the dash. I can run an "ignition on" directly from a switch to the distributor (thinking junkyard HEI)...

I can run a momentary switch to the starter solenoid...

CAN I just run power into the brake light switch, and then another wire from the switch to the lights themselves?

Big question, how would I hook an alternator, and what the best to get for this scenerio (one wire "sounds" like the way for me to go), or can I get a regular "internally regulate" GM (1970's) and wire it to work? I am PRETTY SURE this will work, but not 100%... Naturally, the older GM alt would likely be the cheapest, but I have stock brackets (Short Water Pump)

Also, IF I get a non-HEI distributor, how fast would the points go with a straight 12-volts (versus resisted 9 volts)? I guess I could get a Chrysler (?) resistor block if I went that way...

Thanks for any help and advice...

Funds are low and time is tight...

How far are you moving? For a car running just the ignition off the battery, you can drive quite some distance before a fully charged battery goes dead. For a HEI, just need battery power with a switch.

For the starter, just run a wire from the starter "S" terminal to somewhere near the battery, just hold to battery+ to start cranking (important... this bypases all safety devices, make dam sure the car is not in gear). If you use a switch, it will have to be a real heavy duty one as the solinoid pulls 30+ amps, the cheap autoparts store switches will not hold up, even just a few times.

CAN I just run power into the brake light switch, and then another wire from the switch to the lights themselves?
Yes you can.
Big question, how would I hook an alternator, and what the best to get for this scenerio (one wire "sounds" like the way for me to go), or can I get a regular "internally regulate" GM (1970's) and wire it to work? I am PRETTY SURE this will work, but not 100%... Naturally, the older GM alt would likely be the cheapest, but I have stock brackets (Short Water Pump) Yes you can make a internally regulated alternator work. Alternator BAT terminal to battery+ , terminal 2 (sense terminal) to alternator BAT terminal (this makes it work like a one wire alternator) , terminal 1 to battery+ with a switch and a small bulb inline. ( a old sidemarker light will do) When the car is switched off you will need to switch the alternator off to as it will draw power (and light the light) if the cars not running.
Also, IF I get a non-HEI distributor, how fast would the points go with a straight 12-volts (versus resisted 9 volts)? I guess I could get a Chrysler (?) resistor block if I went that way... Pretty fast, I don't know how many miles you could drive with straight 12-volts. You could use a Chrysler ballest resister or if you have your original engine harness cut and use the resister wire for a points setup. The car may be also hard to start if the coil doesn't have 12 volts during cranking, Doing a HEI will be easier. Any other questions post back

Thanks Greg...

I am moving about 40 miles..., but might have to move it into storage for a while first (about a mile away)...

I might have an old ignition switch with a key (have several switches, but not sure if I have any of the keys), and could use that to "start".

New house has a slope getting into the back yard, and its currently dirt... I figured it would be easier if I could drive this into the back yard (eventually, I'll get concrete), plus, if I could drive this to the new house, saves me from renting a trailer and truck for the trip (I have a small S10 pickup)...

For the starter, just run a wire from the starter "S" terminal to somewhere near the battery, just hold to battery+ to start cranking (important... this bypases all safety devices, make dam sure the car is not in gear). If you use a switch, it will have to be a real heavy duty one as the solinoid pulls 30+ amps, the cheap autoparts store switches will not hold up, even just a few times.


Thats why I'd like to have the switch inside, so I can start and kill the engine without jumping out... I'll have to pick up one of those HD switches (I might have one around here even)...

The battery will just be a cheap auto parts store battery, and my battery charger dies a few years ago, so the alt will be nice (I pretty much need one anyway, for the fan belt... Tried to run a belt between WP and crank alone, but difficult to get it tight...

Update: Just remembered I have several 1966 L78 Idler pulleys, so I can drive the fan with an alt... Hmmm...

Thanks again...

Tony