This relates back to the OMNI fiasco, hah ha ha!!!! Before I was convinced to use the OMNI I was going to use the DELTRON line, So after reading this seventy something post, topic of verbal enslaught with a little bit of paint talk in between, and calling the locals to find out that OMNI's no good, Im back to sqaure 5.

So I was glazing over some tech sheet's and noticed NCP 270/271 should not be applied over DPLF/DP401LF epoxy primer wich must be used if your using to paint over E-COAT, wich just so happen's to be everything but doors hood and roof.
BUT I can use K38 over the DPLF/DP401LF instead.

So are there any dramatic difference's between the two, I known NCP is corrosion resistant but how does the K38 hold up, It also mentioned that the K38 be sealed if topcoating with black, I plan on shooting a blue so I should be alright...right?

How important is it to use the epoxy primer first? Can I not just go straight to the K38 over cleaned and sanded steel and block it out and then bc/cc. Or is that just plain stupid.


Now.... what to do with the OMNI
Well the garage floor could use a fresh coat!!!!

HA HA HAHAHA HAHAHA HA...

Holly stawberry Batman were in a JAM.

Just sand LIGHTLY with 320 on a block or D/A and then hit it with 2 coats of K-38. If it is new steel . if you want you can shoot DP first and then the K-38 that would be the bulit proof way. That NCP stuff is junk!!! If I were you I would shoot a test pannel or even a good new pannel with the Omni and then clear it with a good 2021 high end clear and see what you think it looks like. Wont take more than 20min. with a D/A to get it back off if you don't like it, you already have it try it. If it is sealed under some hi end 2021 I think it will last.

I don't plan on using Omni again but every day I look at my daily driver hood that I shot over 3 years ago with Omni Single stage junk (right over the scuffed E-coat primmer and think wow it is still holding, maybe if I washed the thing it would be a different story but hey it's a white car that get's driven on gravel daily. smile.gif

NCP270/271 CAN be applied over DPLF epoxies when used with the 402 hardener, also says DPLF can be applied over NCP. Id use the 402 hardener anyway, no induction time with that.

Ecoat DOESNT need to be topcoated with epoxy prior to painting.

PPG guidelines on ecoat is to: scuff, seal and paint.

NCP is a ISO free product were K36/38 contains ISO's. So if health is a corcern then NCP is a plus. NCP has a higher film build then k36 but NOT k38, k38 fills more.
K36/38 MUST be sealed prior to appling ONLY black, all other colors you are fine.

NCP has a REAL strong oder to it, pretty much like elmers glue. It stinks when you spray it stinks when you sand it, NO MATTER how long you wait to sand it, it still friggin stinks!!!

If you plan on spraying NCP in your garage and its an attached garage am willing to bet that your wife will kick you out smile.gif Its that strong of an oder.

NCP to me sands harder then k36/k38. Basically it gets the PPG "label" of corrosion resist because it has an added resin that increases its adhesion, which makes it sand harder.

If you are appling either product over ecoat all you need to do is scuff sand the ecoat with 400 and or a red scuff pad and apply your NCP or k38.

If its bare metal then YOU NEED to apply an etch primer like DX1791 first or epoxy.

If you read the sheets its clearly states for BOTH products that an etch primer should be used first for MAX performance.

K38 and NCP270/271 are both fine products.