You guys have the answers for cooling problems so here goes...I recently rebuilt my GENV 454 because the idiot before me left in the stock springs with a cam swap to a Comp 280H and it wiped out a lobe.

That combo ran at a steady 180 on the street and rarely got much over 195 in "cruis" traffic. The rebuild (budget minded) consisted of re-ringing (stock pistons and bore), new bearings on a polished stock crank and we put in the Comp Cams XE268 cam and kit with new springs and timing set. Now engine still maintains 180 running down the road but creeps up to 205 in light traffic and has seen the better side of 210 during the "Dream Cruise".

For the cooling system I have an Edelbrock high flow pump, 180* high flow stat, Griffin aluminum 2 row from NPD, mechanical fan (Derale 17" Tornado), and the BeCool pusher electric comes on when things get warm. Nothing else has changed in the setup including the jets, needles, and settings onthe carb. Timing is around 12-14 and I have a Proform HEI with vacuum advance. Dont know the total timing or timing curve..

Any ideas????

Thanks
Mike

I don't see 210º as a problem is stop/go traffic. As long as It cools off as soon as you are moving. I assume your Temp sensor is in the head??? If so that is where the water will be the hottest. You probably need to verify your total timimg is around 36º or less to be safe when she gets that warm but As long as the plugs look good (no signs of detonation) I wouldn't be too concerned about that temp this time of year.

JMHO - Troy.

A non thermal 7 blade clutch fan keeps my 70 SS454 cool..no higher than 185* under any conditions

That 180* thermostat should be the first thing to go. Water restrictor plates keep things super cool and allow you to control how much heat the water soaks up inside by the block by using different bore sizes. The only downside is longer warmups in the morning.

Have you tried any of those "water wetter" or "coolant conditioner" additives? They're usually good for at least 15* cooler.

I realize that 210 is not a BAD temp in traffic. My questions is why is there a difference just because I rebuilt the motor and changed the cam. I woudlhave figured that my temps would have been the same. The temp used to drop almost immediately after stop and go traffic. Now, it takes about 4 or 5 miles of 35 mph or better to get the temp back to 180....the thermostat worked great previously. This is not a race car adn I think the engineers at GM new what they were doing when they put stat's in cars to begin with. I woudl not ever think of running a restrictor on th estreet. At speed the water never gets a chance to cycle as designed...IMHO..