I have a 70 chevelle with a smallblock. Everything is installed on the car that is going to go on it.

When I put the car together, I replaced every suspension component, including the springs. For the front I got the heavy duty station wagon springs. These have been on the car for some time now, and the motor & trans have been in for a year or so.

My question is, have the springs already settled as much as they are going to, or do I actually need to be driving the car for this to happen to its full extent? The car has not turned a mile in 4 years or so.

The wheelgap in the rear is perfect, but the front is higher and I'd rather have the tire tucked in the fender a little more.

If they are not going to settle any more I am going to justify the purchase of some fatman drop/tall spindles.

Can I ask why you chose heavy duty station wagon springs? You do need to drive the car around for them to settle in completely. Did you tighten up the front control arm bushings with the suspension unloaded? That can cause the bushings to bind, especially if they are rubber bushings, and they will hold the front up.

I used the heavy duty springs because I want this thing to handle well. Judging by how far I can push the front end down (barely!) it should not roll too much. It'll probably be a bumpy ride, too. I may consider swapping them if its too harsh. Any recommendations? I have KYB gas-adjust shocks, if it makes a difference. They seem pretty stiff as well.

I don't remember what sequence I tightened the control arm bushings because I installed those parts 3 years ago or so ago. The front bushings are the polygraphite units from PST.

Maybe Dennis68 has some recommendations. I think with a good sway bar and shocks up front you shouldn't need real heavy springs.

If you lubed up the poly bushings with the tube of snot they supply they shouldn't preload like rubber but it may still take some driving around for them to twist in the shells and around the sleeves.

Hmm, that makes sense but is unfortunate. Out of all the nasty things I've had to do to the car, installing springs was my least favorite.

The car has a 1 1/8" sway bar in front.

I wouldn't give up hope yet. Even poly bushings can preload some, especially if the bolts are really torqued down good. Drive it around for a while and see, it well settle some. Can't say how much but some for sure.

The effects of the increased rate by running wagon springs has been negated by the increase in the center of gravity. I would have looked into some sport springs from Hotchkis or Edlebrock. With the stiffer springs you shouldn't any more than a 1.125" bar.

I think my local "speed shop" has some lightly used hotchkiss springs sitting down there. If I would've known they would sit this high I wouldn't have gotten them.

I have heard good things about coilsprings.com, what spring rate do you recommend? How about the fatman spindles and keeping the wagon springs?

No, keeping the taller springs will negate some of the benefits of the tall spindles. I would look into those "used" springs. I buy a lot of "used" Nascar springs, springs don't wear out so don't be skeptical just because they don't come in a sealed box.

No, keeping the taller springs will negate some of the benefits of the tall spindles. I would look into those "used" springs. I buy a lot of "used" Nascar springs, springs don't wear out so don't be skeptical just because they don't come in a sealed box.

I saw the link to those nascar springs you posted in another thread. Would those springs be too harsh for a cruiser? Maybe I need to buck up and get some coilovers.

At least I have some idea whats going on, thanks for the help fellas!

You can buy Tru-coils or AFCO springs in rates as low 400lbs (about the same as your wagon springs). Combine that with a 5.5" hidden adjuster and you can now tailor your ride height and spring rate to match your tastes. Granted changing the rate requires spending some money but since this doesn't appear to be a competition car getting it within 100lbs or so should suffice, you can always eBay the other springs should you decide to go up or down with the rate.

Webfoot,

If you decide to replace your current wagon springs, give me a shot at them, I'm looking for a frontal lift on my loaded big block convertible, sounds like your wagon springs may do the trick for me.

I do have a brand new set of MOOG 5450 that are rated at 450 lbs but I've been told they won't give me any more lift then a stock spring that's why I'm looking for something different. That's whay I have not installed them yet.

Gibby

So, is this what I would need to get what you are talking about?:

Adjustable spring spacer:? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/dept_id.157/display_id.3389/qx/Product.htm

So that, and a set of used winston cup springs and some coilover shocks, like this: http://www.cmwraceparts.com/images/afco/1273fb.jpg , or with that spacer will the shocks I have work fine.

And how bout a set of these:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/paging.yes/dept_id.26/display_id.2120/qx/Product.htm

I also agree that you should go down and get the Hotchkis springs. I have a set on my 70 454 and it sits perfect.

Ahhh, you found the Speedway web site. Now your in trouble. Yes, those are the spacers you need, you don't have to buy used springs, Speedway sells brand new springs for 45/ea. You want the 5"X9.5" spring. Will those arms work...

http://www.onrails.us/images/fendoverhaul109.jpg
Yep, I think so.

WOW, so they apparently lowered the price to $40 each for a coil spring. So this is all I am looking at to get a MUCH better setup:
Speedway tru-coil, 575 lb rate: 2 x $40
Speedway adjustable spring shim: 2 x $30
Speedway upper a-arm: 2 x $43
TOTAL (so far) = $226

I suppose I'll need some kind of threaded body shock. Which size would be best? Will they bolt to the existing holes in my lower a-arm or will I have to get some custom fab work done?

I am assuming that by the posts I have seen you make that this will make a HUGE difference over a full coil/shock setup.

Not a huge difference, just an adjustable choice. The handling/ride won't be any different however you will be able to determine your ride height without any changes to the spring rate (vs. trimming coils to fine tune the height). Your stock shocks will work although a better shock is definitely recommended. Check out Bilstein, Koni, Penske, or even Edlebrock.