Anyone who has dealt with this shop, could you please email me with some info?
I am especially interested in thier paint stripping & priming services.

I was given advice a while back not to have doors, fenders, etc dipped, unless I was going to have them E-coated.

I am in Buffalo, and the only place I know that does the E-coating is in MI. I really do not want to ship all the items I want stripped & primed, I would rather drive them myself, and Erie PA in this winter is about as far as I would want to go.

Bob Ore Restoration/Tri-State Metal cleaning uses a non-destructive solution for cleaning the metal. No metal is removed in the process. I was warned not to have parts acid dipped & then just spray on primer, because rust will form in the seams etc.

Could this non-destructive stripping be better than using acid as far as future rust is concerned?

If anyone has had experience with this shop, please advise!!

Well, since none of you are responding, I will tell you the process sheet this place sent me. Look it over and see if you would have it done to your chevelle!

After stripping the paint & rust with the non-destructive (does not remove metal) process, the steps for cleaning & priming are as follows:

1. Metal condition parts by scrubbing with a scotch brite pad and dupont 5717S metal conditioner.

2. Rinse with water.

3. Scrub dry with paper towels(shop rags can contain contaminants, silicone, etc).

4. Dry all seams with torch, simply by passing flame over seams evaporating all moisture(this guarantees all water, moisture, metal conditioner is dry).

5. Take a dry scotch brite pad and scrub dried parts, especially seams since this is the area you could have dry residual amd metal conditioner type powder.

6. wipe with lacquer thinner or fast flashing agent using paper towels.

7. Prime with epoxy primer.

It seems pretty thorough, and if I can't find a place close to me that does E-coating. I think this is the route I will go.

Comments are appreciated.

Kripes Ed that sounds pretty darn thorough. My local paint shop did it the old fashioned way with good results. I've never heard of these folks.

Ed,

I'd have to agree with Gene; that process sounds very thorough. I've had plenty of parts, including sheet metal, chemically dip-stripped (NOT acid) in the past and had good results. I was nowhere near that thorough when painting the stuff. This, however, was on cars which were almost never out in any inclement weather. If your car will only be fair-weather driven, I think you'd be plenty satisfied. Good luck.

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Bill Pritchard
69 SS396 Convertible
"There's never enough time to do the job properly, but always enough time to do it over."

Yeah, this is going to be a good weather car only. I'm much pretty set on going with this shop. Im gonna get a quote next week.

It will be pretty expensive, I have 2 doors, 2 fenders & a trunk lid I need done. Im guessing around $800.

Why not do media blasting on those parts you have? I am just curious on your thoughts on not wanting to go that route. We always have had everything blasted and have never had a problem but, I know everyone has their own prefrences. Let me know how you make out with it, I am not far from there and may want to try that process sometime.

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Micky Hale Restorations
69 L-89 Chevelle
68 Biscayne 427/425
34 Plymouth Drag Car
ACES #134
www.mickyhale.com

This summer I soda blasted the body when it was off the frame. The soda/plastic media does not etch the metal surface, so therefore it cannot remove ALL the rust like sand or glass beads do. I made the mistake of switching to very fine sand to do the inside of the body, so it would etch the metal, so I could epoxy primer it right away without further hand sanding, or DA'ing the inside of the car. Which would be pretty hard to do. The sand was a mistake, while blasting the underside of the roof, I warped it pretty badly (still have not found someone to straighten the metal) I was under the impression that to avoid warping the metal, you must not let the blasting process heat it up. So while I was doing it, I mad sure it stayed cool, but it still warped!! I think that the etching process has as much to do with warping as the heat. Because, etching one side of the metal stretches it, making the etched side expand, causing the metal to warp. And on a huge piece of sheet metal like the roof, not warping it while blasting is quite a task. I would sodablast all the rest of my panels, but then they would need more extensive cleaning to remove rust & rust stains. Therefore I think a non-acid dipping or E-coating are two avenues that would be better choices. I think E-coating is the best, but I only know of one location that does that, and they are too far away from me. The next best thing seems to be what Bob Ore Restorations has to offer.

Not to make arguement or anything, but if you would have had a professional media blasting shop do that it would have saved you a lot of extra work in my opinion. The guy that does my cars does a fantastic job. They plastic media the cars first, then hit the rust areas with alum. oxide. Sand of any kind is the worst possible thing you can do. Like I said I dont want you to think I am saying this in a demeaning manner or anything, just going by what weve done over the last 10 years. Micky

Even If I get the parts media blasted, which I can do myself (soda/plastic). I cannot get in certain areas to remove rust. I know that there is rust in both my fenders between the brace and skin, the only way to remove all of it would be to cut the brace out, blast it, prime it, then re-weld everything. Non-destructive chemical stripping seems to be the way to go in my case.

Well I've given up on this guy, he's way too expensive because of all the manual labor involved.

I have the equipment to media blast my body parts, but how can I get the rust out of the unreachable areas? Like between the fender brace & the skin. I know there is rust in there from the metal I left in while doing the patches, the soda/plastic media will not get this out.

Anyone who does this on their own, please advise!

This may be cruder than what you want, but many people put POR 15 in the tight spots. It's thin and flows into crevases well. It will seal the rust.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575