I'm taking some time out to do some upgrading to my workshop and would like to put air lines around the walls and the ceiling. Is there a limit as to how far these plug-in couplings need to be and can you use plastic pipe. Any advise on how to do this would be helpful also. Thanks.

Jim
72SS frame-off in process

Plasic(PVC) is ok if it is rated at 125PSI and you're not using air above that pressure, otherwise steel pipe should be used. The pipe must have appropriate support clamps along its length and at every quick connect fitting. You can put in miles of pipe and hundreds of fittings if you want. I have a valve(ball valve)on my compresssor output line and a quick connect on the wall to hook the compressor to since I have a portable compressor, you only need a valve if your comp. is stationary but I would reccomend a flexable connection at that point. At the point where the compressor hooks in I have a TEE, air in one side,a regulator and filter/dryer/quick connect(for painting) on the other side and a riser up to a line that runs the length of my shop with branches dropping down at my workbench(flexable coil plastic pipe here) and other appropriate locations. You can locate your compressor and whatever fittings you need where you need them but secure your piping well. I have a hose reel/w 50' of hose near the door for outside use. Didn't mean to get so long winded but this should give you some ideas. Buy lots of quick connects, male and female. Note that quikconnects can have internal or external threads as needed to reduce the fittings needed.

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Life aint easy when you're fat and greasy!

Forget plastic or steel. Just run out and get some copper water pipe.

To hold the fittings, you can get wingback 90's. These have a copper pipe side, a threaded side and two tabs for attaching it to something solid. These are used for the shower head usually, but work great in this application. Just be sure to get the heavy walled pipe, even though I doubt that the thinwall stuff would rupture.

Then, just use whatever fittings you need (a T for each drop and a few 90's) and the copper straps to hold it all to the walls.

Of course, if you have a 2-stage, 175psi compressor, you may want to re-think this.

Peter

Doesn't copper pipe have a seam down the length? If it's extruded I guess it would be ok, but if there's a seam it might not be a very wise choice. I would vote for black iron pipe or steel. Pricey but safer IMO.

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Dave Vanderputten
1970 Chevelle Malibu 307 (In Progress)
TC# 867
ACES# 3967
http://www.crosswinds.net/~daves70/index.htm

Forget plastic, it holds in heat..and creates condensation. The copper is the best way to go, if you look at your compresser it has copper tube from the pump to the tank. There are different ratings and I forget what they are so look into it. Here is a chart and some info you may find useful.
http://members.aol.com/buickfam/piping.jpg

http://members.aol.com/buickfam/pipesize.jpg


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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

Thanks guys for the input and thanks Martinsr for the print that was a BIG help.

Jim
72SS

Having been a pipefitter by trade at one time I can say I have never used copper pipe for air supply lines, for small diameter control air lines yes but not supply lines. This is due in part to the expense of copper and, not all copper will have a high enough pressure rating. Whatever you use make sure it has the appropriate rating and secure it to the wall/ceiling with proper clamps/hangers.
Excellent piping drawing Martinsr, and yes plastic probably is not good for painting applications, but for shop tools its fine.

Black iron pipe is the next best thing from copper, the copper by the way is what Sharpe says is the best. And when you hang it, block it off the wall so the air can get around it to help cool. And if you have no attic space, don't run the pipe all the way up at the roof, again, more heat.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

We have built and used several auto shops that use a lotta air, for air pumps, etc. Plastic is fine as long as you remember that it has a pressure rating, and fittings do also. use the right PVC. Also, do not connect directly to the compressor, as heat and vibration will cause failure. Don't forget the valves at the bottom of each drop to discharge water.

Copper lines are used on a/c systems all the time. The high side pressures run well over 200# and I have seen as high as 300#.

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James Thomas
Gold Member # 350
A.C.E.S. #3565
70 Mist Green 454
My 70 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/jt70s4541.jpg)

Awesome drawing MartinSr. If you're not going to use an in-line air-dryer, I would suggest using copper. To reduce the amount of moisture in the air supply, you can use a cheap and effective way of removing water from the system. Compressed Air, @ 52o or less cannot move moisture. I used copper pipe and ran it thru an old cooler making a big "Cool Can" so the speak. I loaded it up with ice when I was going to paint or work in the shop for a good while. Use this in conjunction with a water remover just up-stream of the cool can and you'll remove 90% of the moisture. I always used a desicant dryer at the end of the hard piping also. This will give you dry air for very little money.

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Triple Black 69 SS 396