I'm going to temporarely reinstall my front and rear glass so I can drive my car. It will probly be a couple of years before I get to the paint stage. What would be the best thing to use for the temp install. Thanks. Cal

------------------
TC Member # 1308

my trailer queen (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/trailerqueeny.jpg)
future racer (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/austin.jpg)
justins 67 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/67sideveiw.jpg)
cals caminos web site (http://72sselcamino1.tripod.com/calscaminos/)

Cal- MARTINSR has a very good post on this. Look up using key word windshield install, in body archives, or his posts. Talks about butyl tape and proper procedure. How's Justin?

Karl, thanks for the heads up on the Martin post. I'll see if I can find it. I just want something temp to make it easy to take out, but safe to drive. I guess I'll just use sylicone.

As far as Justin goes,(thanks for asking) he's the same. He still want's the Camaro. I decided not to get his car. I had mine in the yard with a for sale sign on it. But then after I cleaned it up, I fell in love with it all over again. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif

------------------
TC Member # 1308

my trailer queen (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/trailerqueeny.jpg)
future racer (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/austin.jpg)
justins 67 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/67sideveiw.jpg)
cals caminos web site (http://72sselcamino1.tripod.com/calscaminos/)

If I were you, I wouldn't use the silicone, it is a bear to remove. Most good parts will have the butyl tape and that is what I would use.

------------------
Leo Paugh
Maryland Chevelle Club #017
A.C.E.S.#3731
progress has little to do with speed, but lots to do with direction.
Maryland Chevelle Club (http://www.chevelles.net/mcc/mcc.htm)

Agree with CHEV64. Butyl is easy to work with and easy to remove later if necessary. One of the reasons it is no longer used on todays vehicles is that it just barely holds the glass in. They went to urethanes, etc. because the glass became a structural component of vehicle. As stated previously regarding Jason, hang in there with your values, sometimes it's no fun being a dad. Karl

do not use silicone!! it holds moisture and over time will rust your pinchweld. it also contaminates the pinchweld and makes it harder for the corect install later. i managed an auto glass shop for 10 yrs and have seen what people do to their cars.
as stated above, use buytl tape but clean the pinchweld really good then apply pinchweld primer. you can get the supplies from any glass shop or bodyshop supply

Ok guy's, butyl tape it is. Thanks for the help. Cal

Is silicone the stuff that they use in a caulk gun? If so, then the shop that replaced my windshield used that even though I left a couple of notes to use butyl tape. I guess I'll change that myself when I do the restoration.

------------------
1970 Chevy Custom El Camino (http://www.dreamelectric.com)
Originally was & will be Green Mist & Silver w/Green Vinyl Top (now black/black)
350ci/300HP 4bbl & Dual Exhaust
TH-350 - 2.73 Posi Rear - Factory PS, PDB, PW, Tilt, A/C & More
32 Years on the road and still going!
Also, check out my new 1987 Chevy Caprice Coupe! (http://www.dreamelectric.com/caprice.html)
Other Restorations - 1969 Snowco Trailer (http://www.dreamelectric.com/Snowco.html) & 1967 Sears Custom 600 Tractor (http://www.dreamelectric.com/1967Sears.html)

Here is my "Basics of Basics" of window setting if you need it. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >
I have done many of them with good success. Let me say that there are a few different ideas on things, these have worked very well for me. This instruction is starting after any rust repair, primer/paint. That would require MUCH more instructions. I'm assuming from your post you are past that.

First off get some 3M (or there are other brands) "pinch weld primer." It comes in a little 1/4 pint or so sized can and has a brush attached to the underside of the lid.

Before you install the clips be sure they are correct!!! You should start with either new ones or VERY nice old ones. When they are installed the top of the clip should be just a hair below the top of the pinchweld or body surface. I also recommend that you trial fit a piece of the molding to see if it fits correctly. This is time very well spent. If you find later that the clips are wrong, you will REALLY wish you did this trial fit.
You could even set the window in on some rubber blocks and install the mouldings to be sure it will all work well.

After you install the clips brush the pinchweld primer on the bottom of the pinchweld where the butyl tape is going to lay. Brush up around the clips good. The paint gets scratched when you slip the clips on to the studs and this primer will help protect it.

Next you want to set the window in the hole and find what rubber setting blocks you want to use. There are a few that come with the butyl tape kit and you set them different ways to make them higher or lower. Be sure that the window fits evenly all the way around. Run a piece of masking tape from on the glass out onto the body on the sides and the center of the top and bottom. Really only one should be needed but it helps to have more so you helper can see one well too. These tapes are then cut on the edge of the glass so you can remove the window again. Just leave the tape on the window and the body for alignment purposes.

Be sure the window is clean and free of residue of any kind. With it lying on its back, put the butyl tape on the edge of the glass without hanging off. Roll it out and as you go you can pull the paper off it so that way when you come to a corner you can get around it. If the paper is on, you can't get around the corner. But you want the paper on as you are going down the tops and sides to help you get it straight and so you don't touch it. At the point where they meet, run one next to the other and at the point they pass, cut it with a NEW razor blade. Then DON'T touch the tape, using the razor push it, blending it together. Most guys will tell you to make this joint at a certain spot like on the side or at the bottom. I really don’t think it matters as far as leaking, if it is done incorrectly it WILL leak, what does it matter where it leaks? The point is, do it properly and it won’t leak. I like to look at where it will be the least seen. On the sides it is usually seen and looks like hell. I usually make this splice at the bottom, it seems to be the most hidden spot. You can get the butyl tape in Ό”, 5/16” and 3/8” in diameter. I have found that the 5/16” is the most common with Ό” being used in late model cars on the quarter windows. The 3/8” is rarely used and can really get you in trouble. If you set the glass with the 3/8” you may find that it is impossible to install the mouldings because the glass is too high! The Ό” squashes down to about 5/32 or 3/16” the 5/16 goes down to about Ό or 7/32” and the 3/8 ends up at about 5/16”.

NOTE! I have been told that some of the new windshields are thinner glass and the 3/8" buytl tape is needed to set the glass. It raises the glass up to make up for this. So, check with a good trial fit first!

Then with your helper set the glass in using the masking tape as a guide. DON'T LET IT TOUCH till you have it where you want it. YOU WON'T HAVE A SECOND CHANCE the butyl tape sticks RIGHT NOW and will not let go. If you have the glass a little over or up or down too much you can move it a LITTLE after the glass is lying in. Before you push on the top of the glass, using a plastic setting tool or even a piece of wood you can wedge it into the pinch weld channel and pry the window over, VERY carefully. At this time it is best to get it warm. If you can get it in the sun and warm up the glass and butyl tape and push on the top of the glass to get a good seal all the way around.

Now comes the real important part, sealing. First let me say that I have done many windows and used NO sealer what so ever. The Butyl tape alone should be sealing enough. But as an added "safety net" I do the following.

I take a plastic "bondo" spreader and cut it to about a half inch in width. I also round the corners with the razor nice and clean. Using a high quality urethane sealant I put a little strip right on the side of the glass edge or on the butyl tape it's self. Using the spreader I spread it down the side of the glass over the butyl tape to the bottom of the pinch weld, forming a seal from the top to the bottom vertically. DO NOT PUT THE SEALER ALL OVER THE CLIPS OR FILL THE CHANNEL this is a DEATH sentence to you job.

If you do this and you and see the seal has been made from the top edge of the glass down to the bottom, you know it will never leak. When water gets in there, it will be able to evaporate. If you fill the channel with sealant, the water gets in and can't get out!

You now can put the mouldings on and off at your leisure. If your moulding is giving you trouble and not clicking into place on the clip. You can take a rubber squeegee and place it on top of the moulding and then a small block of wood and tap; JUST tap lightly on top and you can get even the most stubborn moulding on. But if you trial fit them and didn't put sealant all over them this shouldn't be needed.



------------------
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Martin, you sure make a guy go through a lot of printer paper. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif I print almost all of your "Basic's " stuff. I'm just thankfull that you are willing to take the time, and go through all the trouble to help us all out so much. THANK YOU.

I don't want to put the trim back on the window's. The goober that did my body work tore up all of my trim. Will just the buytle tape hold the glass in well enough to go to the track, and just around town. The trim doesn't really hold anything does it.

Thank's, Cal

------------------
TC Member # 1308

my trailer queen (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/trailerqueeny.jpg)
future racer (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/austin.jpg)
justins 67 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/67sideveiw.jpg)
cals caminos web site (http://72sselcamino1.tripod.com/calscaminos/)

MARTINSR'S post are so on the money maybe he should have his own section. Just think, then then body section would be devoid of questions. Thanks MARTINSR for your dedication and willingness to help all. Karl

I think Martin should write a book. "Basic's of body work 101"

And I only want 10% for the idea. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif Cal

Martin,(or anyone else in the know http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif) can the pinch weld primer be put directly on the bare metal, or should I use a self etching primer first. Is the p/w primer designed to help the butyle tape stick. Non of the paint suppliers carry it anymore. They all say everyone is just using the ueratayne chaulk and you don't need the p/w primer. I managed to find 1 can of p/w primer. Will that be enough to do the front AND rear glass. Thanks, Cal

I do not believe that pinch weld primer should be used in place of a properly prepped and painted area. We do, however, on a regular basis, put it over small bare metal areas. All glass mating surfaces should be clean, free of rust, and as smooth as is reasonable to assure the best outcome. IE: no leaks, good bond, corrosion resistance. Hope this helps, Karl

Karl is correct, bare metal "spot priming" is the idea. It was first made for the glass guys who don't have the knowledge or opportunity to prime properly. Actually, you are not even supposed to set the window on paint. The proper way, at least the proper modern way with urethane is to set the urethane on epoxy primer.

------------------
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Ok then. If I'm reading you guy's right, I think I should just use the self etching primer, and set the glass (or tape I should say) directly on that. Cal

There is a special primer that is in a can with a brush applicator and that is what you need. The parts store where you get the butyl tape should have the primer.

------------------
Leo Paugh
Maryland Chevelle Club #017
A.C.E.S.#3731
progress has little to do with speed, but lots to do with direction.
Maryland Chevelle Club (http://www.chevelles.net/mcc/mcc.htm)