We are replacing the old points-style distributor with a billet hei (gm p/n 88961867, which, btw, has msd all over it). We can get the new distributor to drop down most of the way (all but about 1/2 inch), but despite all of wiggling, it doesn't seem to want to go down all the way.

We compared the old distributor to the new one, and the length appeared to be the same.

Do we need to keep wiggling or are we doing something wrong?

Thanks!

you may not be engaged with the oil pump rod-crank the engine around and when the slots line up, it will drop in(shouldnt be more than a 1/4" up off the manifold b4 dropping in place)

They never seen to just fall in to place, for me anyway. Try looking down the dist. hole and look at how the oil pump rod slot is positioned, then set the slot on the bottom of the dist. gear to match. When you got her done let us know how it works. BTW do not use the coil power wire to power the new HEI unit.

Boy, you guys just jumped right on this. Thanks.

Okay, I'm using a big honking screw driver to move that oil pump shaft around. So it's just a matter of getting those two things to line up?

Quick edit: I can't thank you guys enough! It's in!

Okay, I don't pull from the coil. From where do I run the juice?

Thanks! (again!).

Yes, move the oil pump shaft until you get the two to line up.

The factory coil wire (white wire) is a resistance wire that delivers less than 12 volts. The HEI needs a full 12 volts. So, run a new wire from the fuse box that has 12 volts when the ignition is on. You also need 12 volts when cranking, you can get this from the yellow wire to the coil if the new wire you run doesn't have 12 volts when cranking.

I ran mine off the ING position in my fues box. You will need to put a spade female connector on the wire to make this connection.

We don't seem to be getting any spark to the plugs.

I notice that Zeke said to run a wire from the fuse box. We ran a wire off the starter (I did a search and that's what someone said to do) to the HEI. Is that the problem?

Thanks for the help!

The wires on the starter don't provide any power with the key in the ON position. You need to run a wire as suggested by artmalibu. Check that you have power with a test light both when the key is in START and ON.

Thanks! (Goes back out to garage....)

Edit: Okay, back from the garage. Drawing juice from the ign in the fuse box, but still a no start.

We plugged the yellow coil wire in to the distributor. Is that a problem? Thanks!

You only need 1 wire hooked up to make the distributor work. turn the key on and check the power wire at the dist. If you have power, then check for spark, if you have spark your timing is off. If you want to PM me with your phone # I will call you

One other point is when your distributor is down like yours was and won't engage the oil pump shaft simply have someone hold down the distributor while you bump the key. The distributor will fall right in. It saves alot of messing around with the screw driver and oil pump shaft. The distributor is already engaged with the cam so everything stays in place when you bump the key.
Just make sure that the coil wire is off so it doesn't start. Ground the coil wire so you don't blow any electronics.

Art,

pm sent!

I can't begin to count the number of times that distributor got pulled and reinstalled, but it is finally running.

I've got to agree with everybody that says hei is better than points. Thanks to everyone that chimed in on this. The help was invaluable.

ART!! You the Man!