Bob,

Did you get your new headers yet?

You were going with the Hedmen 2" primary, 3" collector ones right? How do they look? Whats the fit like? How does it run?

Sorry for all the questions, but those or the headers I'm thinking about switching to this winter and was wondering if they are worht the extra money over the 2" Hookers.

Thanks in advance. :)

I have the pass. side header in the car, bolted up, fits great, didnt have to ding it anywhere, will install drivers side tonight, will let you know. They hang down no lower than the Dynomax 1.75" tubes, or pass. side doesnt anyway. They look great, they use a ball and socket collector hookup to exhaust, no gasket any more. Of course my exhaust isnt hooked up right now and it will have to be shortened up front,the collectors on the Hedmans are longer. I will post later tonight on the drivers side install.

Thanks Bob.

How much did you have to raise the motor to install the new headers?

Thanks Bob.

How much did you have to raise the motor to install the new headers?

I had to jack the car up a couple feet, raise motor 1" and drivers side header slid right in, zero dinging, about 1/8" clearance on distribution block bolt, oil filter goes right in, no trouble with kickout Moroso pan. I had to squeeze it in with the Dynomax headers, the plugs are a little tougher to get to, but I can live with that. I cannot believe Hedman 2" tubes actually fit better than Dynomax 1.75" tubes. I use Taylor wires with 135* boots, they fit great too. I highly recommend the Hedman #65002 2"x3" headers, they fit too good :D I am running solid motor mounts on both sides too, that might gain a little clearance :confused:

Thanks for your input Bob. :)

I am going to be seriously looking at the Hedmen headers for replacement this winter.

Keep me posted on any differences (ET wise) the headers make.

I have the Hedman 1-3/4" x 3" in my '69. THey really do fit great. I have to wonder what Hedman had compromised to make the fit so good, the obvious thing to me is the radius of the first bend may be much tight than the competitors, which in a pure racing application may be worth something, but for a street header, I doubt it makes any difference. I have used these a couple of times, just be sure to cycle the engine to control the heat for the first 15 minutes or so to cure the coating (something like a 3 - 5 minute on / 5 minute off cycle). I found about 2 - 3 cycles like this works great. If you do get any nicks, you can use something like Supertemp 316 as touch-up.

My 2" Heddman coated jobs were a complete bit@@ to get in the car with motor in place (I know, that was a mistake in itself - I shoulda jacked her up). I had to loosen the steering shaft and move it over, and remove the oil filter. Then the z-bar stuff and ball stud got in the way a little. Finally, a little ding by the steering shaft was needed to finish off teh installation. That could of been needed though b/c I used the Felpro gaskets which a little thicker than paper ones.

Whats nice about the coated ones is that if they get grease or oil stains, they seem to burn off eventually and header looks good again.

Vince,

What issues did you have with the Z-bar / ball stud? I know Bob didn't have this issue (automatic), but I do run a stick and I really did not want to modify my clutch linkage.

What did you have to change?

Vince,

What issues did you have with the Z-bar / ball stud? I know Bob didn't have this issue (automatic), but I do run a stick and I really did not want to modify my clutch linkage.

What did you have to change?

Sorry, should of been more clear....

Everything clears fine (except for the ding near the steering shaft). When I mentioned the z-bar and related linkage, I was referring to the installation of the headers with the engine in place. If you put the headers in first and tie them up to the side, your motor should slide right in.

Thanks Vince.

When I change, I'm hoping I don't have to pull the motor. :angry: