I've kept my 70 SS pretty much stock except for headers, intake and a new cam. A bunch of us are going to Numedia Raceway this weekend and I am clearly on the fence about running it in the 1/4 mile. On one side I think it would be a fun, learning experience and on the other side of things I don't want to break things that are irreplaceable on a numbers matching car. I then try to justify running it by telling myself I can "baby" it a little but I know that won't happen once I start down the track! Guess I just need you guys to tell me to grow some bigger b@!!$ and run it!!!

Anyway, if I decide to race it I need some pointers on launch technique because I know NOTHING about it. And what would be good times for a rookie with my combo?

402 (.30 over)
10.25:1 compression
Performer RPM intake
Original Q-jet carb
1 3/4" primary headers with X pipe and 2 1/2" exhaust
4 spd Muncie (M21)
3:31 rear gears (posi)
Street radial tires(I think they're 215/70R-14")

Do I need to stay away from the water pit? Do I need to do a quick burnout to clean the tires off for best launch? Dump the clutch or slip it? Shift points at what rpm's?

I just don't want to go out there and look like a "complete idiot" and embarrass the chevelle name! I've tried practicing on our secondary roads around home and dumping the clutch at even 2000 or 2500 rpm's just spins the tires initially, then there seems to be a bog as the weight shifts to the rear axle and then it takes off as the car levels off.(kinda hard to explain) Seems like easing into it(slipping the clutch) would be a better launch technique. Is the track going to have better or worse traction than say a back or secondary road around home? OK, let me have it!

Thanks

Well, the track should have better traction providing prep is even halfway decent. Launching a 4spd though, man, i stick to the ones that do it for you, others can chime in on that one :)

Daniel

Do it the way the FAST racers do, low rpm launch ( 1100) and then roll into the throttle. Don't powershift. Tried that w/o slicks and it got squirrly fast. I don't think you can break anything running a car like that on regular tires.

HAVE FUN!

When I used to race, I had street radials on the car (i.e. no fancy rubber compound or anything). We couldn't go around the water pit, so I just spun the tires briefly to dry them off. It seems like standard street tires get slicker instead of stickier after a burnout, so I just rolled out of the water pit, backed up a couple of feet to the side of my wet tire tracks and spun them for a second or two. Then a quick "dry hop" to check the traction, rolled up to the line, hoping that the heat would make any remaining water steam off before the light turned green. That's all I know to do with tires like that and it seemed to work for me. Even if it doesn't, a procedure like that might make people think that you know what you're doing :)

The traction should be much better on the track than on a road, so you can give it a bit more than you do on the road. You won't really know until you have made a few passes though.

Scott,I say go for it and have a ball..you'll enjoy it for sure.
Avoid the water completely since you have street tires.
Drive around the water,and dump the clutch at about 3K to clean the tires off.

I thought you had the 3310 on there?

Scott,

Definitely do it, You'll never regret it. Chris and Gene's advice is right on and believe me , you'll try both. And as Gene said, no power shift, you'll blow the tires off, not to mention the safety factor.
There will be so much on your mind you can't imagine. The guy next to you will probably have an automatic, so don't pay any attention to him. (j/k Chris:D ) You on the other hand are preparing to drive, pedal, row, slip, spin, shift, and WOOD IT to a quick ET that you'll undoubtedly be disappointed in after the excitement of your first time of flooring it with...... no cops,........no one pulling out in front of you, no crossroads, etc. And then it's,.....FISH ON, you're hooked.
Then, you'll look at your timeslip and think,.........ooh, I should have done this, and oh I should have done that and you'll be dyin' to get back out there.
On the serious side, you'll find out about anticipating the green light w/ a clutch car. And your first run probably will be disappointing, mine was, 17 something in the same car I run considerably quicker in now after getting hooked and making a few changes, but mostly experience.
Just having a little fun here in telling you not to worry about the ricer in the other lane, you'll be back. Definitely do it and have fun.

Chris,
I couldn't get the accelerator pump to stop dripping gas on my shiny aluminum intake so I swapped the original q-jet back on. I need to order a new pump and get the Holley back on. I don't notice any "seat of the pants" difference in the carbs but if I build up the courage to run on Friday night it would be fun to swap the carbs and see if there is a real performance difference by running next Friday with the Holley on! I can see where this game would get very addicting in how can I make it faster? My battery is currently bungee strapped in so I don't think it will pass their safety inspection. I called my buddy and we're going to try and get the tray welded in before Friday. I think I'm going to go for it. You guys will help me put it back together if the pieces fly........ right? What is "power shifting" so I don't do it and end up wrecking the car?

Side stepping the clutch with the go pedal on the mat when you shift. Not recommended without a scattershield.;)

Bring the R's up to 3500-4000,let out the clutch and nail it.......you probably wont be able to power shift the old Muncie too well anyway(full syncros and all) and if you try and you miss a shift you may well hurt something(engine) so I wouldn't even try if I were you...........now I've never driven a stick car so take my advice for what its worth

Got it! No power shifting for me. Prefer not to make "pieces". I can go around the water so that won't be a problem. Should I change any air pressure in the tires? Best rpm's to shift at? What times to expect for first time out? Forgot to mention the cam is an Ultradyne 280/288 (Thanks for the recommendation Mr. 4-Speed!) and it weighs around 3700 lbs. Should I expect 15 second runs with no experience? I want an attainable goal for myself.

Yes, definitely, Depending on how many runs you can get in. When I mentioned 17 secs in my previous post, I was saying that mostly due to my inexperience at the track, and the inherent inconsistencies of a stick, BB car on street tires, my times were far below what the car could achieve with a real driver:o . But as you make runs you will adjust, and easily be in the low 14s to high 13s, I think, as we are geared differently. From the nightmarish first pass at 17 to high 13s the first night out for me, what i'm trying to say is that you'll be down from where you start at quickly once you feel the car on the track and make adjustments. After that,...........its drag radials..........gear change,......honey, I need some more money:D

I can't give you any advise other than to go for it. Three years ago I took my chevelle up to the Stroudsburg airport when the car club has the drags there. It's not a full 1/4mile and no time slips but it turned out to be a great time and an experience I'll never forget. I said I was only going to run it once or twice and wound up making 5 runs. I lost every race but I didn't care, I was there for fun and the experience.

I did come out of the hole at 3500 and when the tires stopped spinning I floored it. I speed shifted 1 run and missed 3rd the other runs I shifted normally.

Have a GREAT time, You'll be glad you did.

Here is a link for the airport info. http://www.poconoperformance.com/

".now I've never driven a stick car so take my advice for what its worth"

Yeah Joe rite. ;)

Look at ole Joe rowing his Nova in my Sig, Drag videos.

this is somthing i have often thought about.

when your at the light with a manual car. do you just keep the clutch all the way in, and have your foot on the brake, or are you kind of riding the clutch to keep it in one spot while your right foot is messing with the gas?


rick, i have been wanting to go to the stroudsburg track, but i never have the time. what is it first 100 cars can run? you gunna be at the show on sunday in Windgap, the old mount view drag strip, Stix reunion. ill be there i got an ol set of tires to roast.


aaron

Your first few runs should be fun and to get the feel of the whole scene - the adrenaline will be pumping through your veins and you'll want to be patient and methodical. Once the confidence in your ability, the action at the tree during prestage and stage, and running the car wot down the track improves, then start to make the adjustments in your launch and shifting technique/rpm. As stated, don't powershift that car - it's not necessary for a good run and the street tires may make it a bit unpredictable.

You'll learn that there is way more to drag racing than running fast in a straight line. Most of all, have fun!

Aaron,

There are probably as many different ways to do this as there are cars and drivers. That said, I have found that my car doesn't roll at the line where I race. So I just ease up after the burnout and wait for the starter to wave us in. When he does, I just ease in til the first light is on, wait til the other car is in, move into the second light, push the clutch to the floor, and put my finger on the line loc button. In my car, the line loc switch also turns on the 2 stage limiter. Then as the yellow lights start down, I press the go pedal about 2/3s, motor hits the limiter, and when the last yellow light comes on I'm outta there. If you don't have a limiter, don't worry you have just enough time to look at the tach and back to the lights.
Also at the track I adjust my clutch to engage a little closer to the floor. This may sound strange, but I also where a mechanix glove on my right hand to keep it from slipping off.
Probably more info than you needed. This just the way I do it and there are alot more experienced people here than me that could add to it.

Scott,with that cam I would shift between 5500-5800 no less than that.

Now let's start betting on what he'll run so he isn't disappointed when he doesn't pull a 12-second 1/4. I'll bet your best will be in the high 14's with your combo and experience. Good luck - and have fun, it's a blast!

this is somthing i have often thought about.

when your at the light with a manual car. do you just keep the clutch all the way in, and have your foot on the brake, or are you kind of riding the clutch to keep it in one spot while your right foot is messing with the gas?


Every dragstrip I've ever raced at was flat. The car won't roll. I have a little experience with a Mustang 5.0 and 5-speed. Just stage, hold the clutch pedal down with your left foot, and have your right foot on the throttle. Best 60' times with the Mustang on street radials was achieved leaving from idle then nailing the gas once rolling, but 1st gear is so tall in a Muncie that might not work. You might have to go with Joe's method.

thanks guys. yeah i wasnt sure if a track was perfectly level or not. i have never raced... yet. im not sure if i will even beable to get out this season. and if i do hopfully i will have the muncie in, if not, ill be taking the slipping 'glide.

thanks


aaron

I have a little experience with a Mustang 5.0 and 5-speed. Just stage, hold the clutch pedal down with your left foot, and have your right foot on the throttle. Best 60' times with the Mustang on street radials was achieved leaving from idle then nailing the gas once rolling, but 1st gear is so tall in a Muncie that might not work. You might have to go with Joe's method.

I think Joe's method would work great,I forgot Scott has an M21/3.31 combo

My old 4 speed 70 SS I would let the clutch out and nail the gas as Mike mentioned,but I had an M20 and a 4.10 gear

Alright, I decided I'm doing it. I will avoid the water and just clean the tires with a quick burnout. I will first try leaving the line per Joe's method at 3500 rpm's (although he knows nothing about stick cars! lol, I watched him in the Nova video). I'm thinking with the Muncie's 1st gear being so high like Mike mentions, leaving from idle won't work too well. I'll shift between 5500 and 5800 rpm's and hope to get in the 14's. What should I look for in MPH? How much air in the tires? Do I start dumping the clutch on the third yellow light? I like loader1's idea of wearing a glove so if it's muggy and my nerves are shot causing my palms to be a little sweaty I won't slip off or miss a gear. Any other preps I should be doing? I'll check my plugs and timing tonight along with getting my battery tray welded in to get rid of the bungee strap and I should be good to go I guess. I will keep you guys posted. I feel the "nervous energy" building already! Thanks for all the pointers guys.

Scott,I would look for the MPH to be at least 97 or so
I would leave the tires at whatever normal pressure you run (32 psi)
If they where drag radials or DOT slicks that would be a different story
Best of luck,looking forward to hearing about it :thumbsup:
Give me a call too if you want

Scott

Guaranteed your palm will be sweating:D ! The reason I mentioned leaving on the last yellow is that you are splitting hairs here. Think of the time it takes to get your foot off the clutch. The first time I ran that didn't occur to me and I waited til the green,.......way late , bad r/t. Which doesn't affect ET but can mean the race in an elimination round. You may red light but what the heck you can change your method the next run.
Have fun, let us know!

Mike Newby, automatic cars don't roll, clutch cars do, its a different ballgame man. I had to install a line loc due to rolling out) or in) at the local track and getting electric tomatoes all the time. It sucks. Only having raced at three tracks, the local one is the only one I had the rolling problem on. It starts to roll once I pick the rpms up!

... the local one is the only one I had the rolling problem on. It starts to roll once I pick the rpms up!

I wouldn't call movement at that track a "roll"...more like a greased slide. :p

Scott,
Be careful. Stick cars without a rev limiter make me nervous...especially a numbers matching deal. :(

if your going to break parts, its gonna be in the first 1/8 mile anyway, your just holding on for the 2nd 1/8-i guess you wont be going that fast anyway
your prob. going to be spinning out of the hole with those little tires, just try and not wreck the guy next to you, if it doesnt feel right, get out of it

take the bungee strap with you :). Even with the tray welded, if the battery still moves around hold it down with the strap. The tech guy will likly get a hold of the battery and try and move it around.
Found this out my second time to the track :( ,but got luck as one of the guys I was with had one :D . Now I leave it there.

Why Should You Race??? (http://forums.factorystockmusclecars.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/362100271/m/839100132)

Do It

Mike Newby, automatic cars don't roll, clutch cars do, its a different ballgame man. I had to install a line loc due to rolling out) or in) at the local track and getting electric tomatoes all the time. It sucks. Only having raced at three tracks, the local one is the only one I had the rolling problem on. It starts to roll once I pick the rpms up!

I only ever raced my Mustang at Atlanta Dragway and Moroso in Florida. Both were smooth & level enough to stage & then sit with no brakes. I don't know what to say about a dragstrip with an incline at the starting line. Don't you Yankees know what a level or a plumb line is? :)

your prob. going to be spinning out of the hole with those little tires, just try and not wreck the guy next to you, if it doesnt feel right, get out of it

Good point. If the car feels really loose or you feel it getting away from you, let off the throttle and steer out of it - do not slam on the brakes.

I can't wait to take a couple trips down the track myself....I'm not too worried about running a number, more so just not doing anything stupid! :clonk:

So where can I get a rev limiter before Friday? Napa, Autozone or local speed shop? Sure would like that insurance if I do miss a gear with my foot in it.

Yep Scott, good idea. Probably any one of those places would have something. I'm using MSD soft touch hooked into my HEI. Went to an auto electric specialty store and got ends identical to the ones inside distributor. Also got 4 pin pigtail. Installed all the wiring inside so hei has an extra connector coming out of it. Soft touch box is in glove box with leads running through firewall, same hole as my backup light wires. I added the two step later in glovebox as it just plugs in.