acid etch primmer question [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: acid etch primmer question


Professor_SS
Feb 18th, 02, 4:01 PM
The literature that came with my acid etch primmer suggests that the primmer should not be sprayed over any filler as it may lift the edges of the filler. I am using Eastwood’s metal to metal filler and there is some regular plastic Bondo on a few small areas of the car. Should I prime these areas with the 2k primmer and use the acid etch only on large bare metal areas or is this just a “for our (PP&Gs) protection” warning? Also, on some areas, I will not have the area (the sides of the cowl for example, or the new fenders/trunk lid) completely stripped to bare metal. I planned to just sand these areas and prime over them. Can I spray the acid etch primmer over these areas or should I only use the 2k primmer on these areas also?

Thanks in advance for sharing your experience…




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70 and 72 Chevelle
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers

Jimmy P
Feb 18th, 02, 4:28 PM
I do think it's more of a 'CYA' statement. I haven't had those problems, however, I spray away from the filler areas. I havn't used that particular product but, if a little gets on the plastic filler I really don't think it's going to lift it. Maybe if you sprayed a heavy coat over the filler it would lift, but not just getting a little overspray onto them will hurt. Same thing with spraying the painted areas. Just steer clear of them as much as possible.

MARTINSR
Feb 18th, 02, 6:43 PM
Professor_SS, I think Jimmy is right. But it also depends on what etch you are using. Is it DX1791 or DPX171 The DX has more acid and is far more aggressive than the DPX171. S-W for example has a recommendation to apply their heavier etch similar to the DPX171 over CURED (at least 12 hours) plastic filler. While their "vinyl wash" similar to the DX1791 has no such recommendations.

I have sprayed DuPont Variprime, DPX171, S-W/M-S E G980/8847 over plastic filler for years without a problem. You didn't hear it from me but I didn't even know about the "cured" part and shot it over pretty fresh plastic till just 5 years ago. Never had a problem.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Professor_SS
Feb 19th, 02, 7:46 PM
Thanks for the info guys. I'm using DPX171 non-chrome self etch... I guess I'll try to stay away from the mud areas...

I'm progressing very slowly. My wife tells me that if I don't keep sanding off all of the filler and reapplying it I'll never get done. But I'm trying to get it as perfect as I can. I already made one really dumb mistake. The body guy welded in a patch on the rear of the car just above the tail lights. So I mudded it all up and sanding and formed and really got it looking great. Then as an after thought I installed my new after market trunk lid... oh my, the fit between the two was way off. So, back to the sanding it down and reapplying it again. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/rolleyes.gif

Oh well, I'm having fun at least...

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70 and 72 Chevelle
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers

WayneK
Feb 20th, 02, 10:45 AM
AHHHH That's not a mistake, It's just another optunity for creativity with plastic.