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FITECH Fuel Filter installation diagram question

17K views 53 replies 13 participants last post by  rel3rd 
#1 ·
So, I used the Fitech fuel filter, that was included in the POS Fuel Command Center...

Saturday, during a Test & Tune, my car was going VERY LEAN (as high as 18:1) at higher RPM's, in any gear, at WOT....

I did not notice this fact, until my last run...by seeing it on AEM wideband.

I was datalogging every run, but without a laptop, was not able to view them until I got home...

Every pass, every WOT, from midrange to just below shift point, my INJECTOR DUTY CYCLE was well above 100%, which means, unable to flow any more fuel (aka static). Duty cycle rose with AFR...

Anyway....removed the 30 micron EFI fuel filter, as said, a leftover Fitech item...

I then disassembled, and also downloaded their current PDF Fuel Command Center instruction manual, which shows a diagram of the orientation of their fuel filter, with their throttle body and fuel unit....

Take a look at these two pictures....One is the diagram, and the 2nd is the actual filter, taken apart....(exploded view, if you will)

GOING STRICTLY and ONLY BY THE FITECH DIAGRAM.....

WHICH END OF THE FILTER WOULD YOU USE AS YOUR INLET, AND WHICH END WOULD YOU USE AS THE OUTLET, GOING TO THE THROTTLE BODY???

Please answer with:
Side A =
Side B =

NOT, what your opinion of which one is right or wrong....just answer which ends go where, using the DIAGRAM ONLY....and IF the FILTER WAS NEVER DISASSEMBLED...PLEASE.

Later, I will post 2 more pictures, to go along with these....

I PROMISE that this is NOT a trick question....just a sanity check, for me. 0:)
 

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#7 ·
I agree, based on the picture in the diagram , and the internals. very common to have a bypass if filter gets restrictive. Which way did you have it installed, the way of the diagram, or the arrow on the housing?
 
#3 ·
I guess no one else wants to play.... :crying:

Here is the FILTER ITSELF, which is completely OPPOSITE of what they show...and how it's been on my car since the Sniper swap...

It looks like it is designed to allow fuel to bypass the filter, if the filter were to be clogged...

That safeguard is non-functional if you use the engraved ARROW on the filter housing and put the damn thing on backwards....:sad:
 

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#4 ·
Is C a valid response?

What Kevin said. According to diagram.

That FCC probably pushed some melted parts into that cone filter. It looks real discolored to me.
 
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#5 ·
I would say that the arrow shows the correct flow of fuel, from supply to the TBI unit. Having the fuel in the large barrel part, gives more surface area around the filter and keeps a small volume always available. Clean fuel come through the small side on its way to the TBI. The spring is to help with assembly so it always keeps a seal against the o-ring. You would never want "dirty" fuel to bypass the filter. If it clogs, it should decrease/prevent fuel from reaching the TBI, potentially clogging an injector.

If you look at a standard clear plastic filter, the fuel goes around the outside of the element and is passed through to the inside of the element and on to the carb.

The diagram on the FiTech manual was incorrectly drawn. I would go by the arrow for fuel flow.
 
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#6 ·
I actually did one better....

Threw the Fitech POS filter in the trash can, and swapped on a Russell version with replaceable stainless steel mesh screen, instead of the sintered bronze or whatever it's called.

I'm still, more than likely, swapping in my Aeromotive 340lph pump, since this Walbro one has been LOUD since Day 1.

Now, I am officially 100% Fitech Free...Hallelujah! :grin2:
 
#8 ·
I went by the ARROW, which is completely wrong.

The spring is to sort of "preload" the filter.
If the filter clogs, it should be able to move slightly, to allow some flow, to keep vehicle running, at least.
The wrong way, like I had it, once the filter starts getting clogged...simply restricts the fuel flow...I never had it apart, since it was brand new when I used it...directions were long gone, so I went with the arrow...never even considering it may be wrong, like it is...

The DIAGRAM is actually correct....the Arrow is wrong.
 
#9 ·
Easy mistake to make. I probably would have done the same without any directions. Even with the diagram I would have been questioning the purpose of the arrow, and probably screwed it up or got on the phone with FiTech to find out how it should be installed.

The little Russell EFI filter can go either direction I think. The screen is about in the middle and it's not spring loaded. I don't think the Russell filters are as restrictive as that sintered cone. Good luck with all of it

You and FiTech just can't get along. ;)
 
#11 ·
That sure doesnt seem like a lot of surface area on the filter. I don't think the Russell is significantly different (I've got one of them somewhere on a shelf too). Never seen an OEM filter that small as a comparison. I don't know where you have it mounted, but I'd ditch that whole thing and use an OEM size filter.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-ff-10-kit

-Dave
 
#14 ·
I may just go with that style Dave. I will have to see how mu h just the adapters are, because I am sure I can source the filters through one of the vendors I already use.

Now I have to check mine!
It's probably wrong too!
Did it cure the lean condition?
I am sure it did, but it was rainy/damp out today. All I need to do is a 2 gear wot pull and datalog it. The log should tell me for sure if it is fixed. I am convinced it is. I could barely even blow through the bronze filter.

Think mine is wrong too... arrow is pointing to the TB. Will change that tonight.
Ironically, the Fitech manual is actual accurate this time. ;)
 
#15 ·
I use the exact same filter, though it was sold under Performance World branding and my filter clogged up causing a similar issue as you had. Which is why I thought your problem was likely the filter. haha.

I installed mine using the arrow as a flow direction as well, but you are saying its built backwards?

Perhaps I should look at a new filter, got a part number for the one you went with?
 
#17 ·
I don't recall there being an arrow on my filter when I had the FCC installed as remember having to refer to the diagram to make sure had orientation correct.

My thought process is that you want the spring pressure holding filter element against the direction of flow, so believe diagram is correct.
 
#26 ·
It's mainly at idle.

When I 1st installed the 80E the gforce cross member sat too low with the stock t350 mount and the distributor cap was hitting the firewall.
When I started it for the 1st time the rotor beat it self on the posts of the cap.
Being the witty person that I am, I tapped the end or the rotor "back" into position, raised the trans so the cap wasn't hitting (barely) and went for it's maiden voyage.
Well, 2 miles later gave her a lil too much thottle and nursed it bacfiring to a spot that I could pull off the road.
It died before I got there but was able to coast into the dirt lot.

I bought a small msd cap, to replace the broken phasing rotor/cap.

It doesn't idle well since then. I think I toasted the msd box or something on the tb.

Here's a pic of what 44k volts looking for ground.
Maybe it took out the coil or something.

Off idle , it runs great.
 

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#30 ·
Anyone have original packaging from that filter supplier, heck they may say something dumb like "Arrow points towards fuel supply" which would be correct.
 
#39 ·
As I am piecing together a kit rather than buying one for my EFI fuel system I ended up with that same Russel filter in 40 microns -8AN on both ends. Still need to figure out a bracket to mount it - I ordered a bracket but it is a bit too large in OD, but I may just add some rubber (old mouse pad) to make it fit.
 
#41 · (Edited)
My current filter sits on the frame rail just forward of the rear axle - supply line runs down passenger boxed frame rail inboard, return does same on driver side. I was thinking of putting it in a similar location - not too hard to get to and out of the way. With all the turbo piping in the engine bay, space is at a premium. I had to ditch things like the battery (trunk), power steering and AC.
 
#44 ·
For those still using the fitech fuel filter.. and not trying to confuse the issue but ,

On the mopar forum I am on, Pace Performance called Fitech .
Here is the answer that was provided in the post from Pace:

"Ok, Here's the deal, right from Fitech.

The spring is not for bypass purposes, its just to secure the filter. And the arrow is to be followed regardless of diagram…

The frame rail sketch is correct
The FCC sketch (at the time of this post) is incorrect

The arrow on the canister is to be followed, and pointing at the TB.

The spring is NOT a bypass....follow the arrow. as i'm sure 99% of you have."

For info purposes .. would love to hear what the manufacturer of that style filter says...
 
#45 ·
Unless I hear or read it from the people who make it, I'm not convinced.

I'd love to know WHO at FiTech gave the answer, as well.

If past history prevails, asking another person would get another answer, no doubt, lol.
 
#46 ·
Who knows what is going on with them, they have just come out and announced that the Meanstreet should only be running 43psi, mine has had 58psi from Day 1.

The FPR in the FCC is set to 58psi so when on dyno and in car initially was running this, they now recommend take the FPR out of TB and swapping with FCC for this setup.

However when I switched over to Tanks Inc with 340LPH Pump had gauge read 58psi.
 
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