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Which EFI setup should I go with?

1K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  Geo71 
#1 ·
At the moment thinking of going with the Holley EFI on my 383....not sure which setup is what I need. Wanting to go with something that can run dry nitrous (plate setup) and can grow with in the future. Motor was built for 250-300 shot, may split that up in two stages. Not sure on that yet..

I've not dynoed the motor, but it should be somewhere in the 550-600 hp range. Vacuum is 8-9" range at idle (1000 rpm). Its been running on pump gas 93 so far, so good (110 at the track on spray most likely).

Thinking about either the Sniper setup or the Terminator Stealth.

Planning on using the built in timing control, nitrous retards etc. I understand about locking out the distributor and using the ecu for timing control. But would it still need some sort of msd type box for the spark strength? Ive never run an msd type box of any sort.

Thanks for any help!
 
#2 ·
For what you're running/wanting to run I'd use the stealth deal. It's more capable but more money too.

You don't to use a MSD, but you will need a dist you can lock out the advance and has controllable module. You could use a GM small-cap HEI. That would give you a locked timing setup, controllable module and external coil, all with stock parts you can get anywhere. The GM module does the heavy duty current switching, the computer connection is logic-level only. No red brick needed or wanted.

something like a 92 Chevy pickup with 5.7 engine. these are dirt cheap, but IMO you want one with a GM module.
 
#3 ·
I like the looks of that setup for sure. Looks like it needs a regulator where the Snipers is built in. No biggie on that, the Aeromotive that I have can be switched to the efi by changing a spring. Hoping it will supply enough fuel to work the nitrous. Looking at that Sniper setup didn't know if the 8 injector setup would be needed. Been reading a lot, but have not really found a concrete answer.

On the GM small cap deal, is a replacement from a parts store ok to use? Or better to use an actual GM dist? Can the GM module still be purchased if needed?
 
#4 ·
For a replacement module, look for ACDelco #19179578

I run one of those distributors Tom mentioned. There's nothing to them. A reluctor wheel on the distributor shaft and a pickup ring around the reluctor wheel. That's it. The two wires from the pickup ring will feed the module.

However, I do use a MSD 6AL box with mine, for the simple fact that I already had it, and it's a known-good for driving a coil. I don't see it as a negative, but I've had it for a while, before they were off-shoring their stuff.

-Dave
 
#8 ·
I'm thinking at some point a higher output ignition is probably needed. Am I at that point it would be beneficial?

I was going to go with the programmable MSD 6 something or other, forget the model. But it did all the same timing control as these Holley systems, which with running the nitrous would be pretty helpful. Is it the MSD box or stronger coil that makes the difference? Or is it just marketing?

I've been looking at those GM hei's with the two plug ins, hope they are the right ones anyway. Think it would be good enough to get a junkyard one? I see all the part stores carry different ones for around the $120 range under various brand names...then the GM is around $300 ish...

sorry it took a bit to get back to this thread....busy week for us.
 
#5 ·
>> There's nothing to them. A reluctor wheel on the distributor shaft and a pickup ring around the reluctor wheel. That's it. The two wires from the pickup ring will feed the module.

This is what I like about them. Not much to go wrong. With a real GM module probably last forever.
 
#9 ·
Good to know. Was going to pick up a msd pro billet to lock out, seems the Gm is a less expensive rout to go. Didnt really want to weld up my Pertronix.
 
#6 ·
George, the Sniper 4 injector unit like I have isn't going to feed a 550-600 HP engine AND a 300 HP "DRY" kit.

If you ran a wet plate kit, then the Sniper could feed the engine pretty easily, and still be used to control your nitrous functions though.

Or....

You would have to wait for the 1250hp Sniper to be released (late January/early February) I think Doug said.

That Terminator Stealth looks bada$$...darn shame you have to cover it up with an air cleaner, lol.
 
#10 ·
Im not going to pull the trigger on it just yet, so maybe that 8 injector Sniper is what I end up going with. Running the nitrous dry seems like it would clean up some things and not have so much clutter. That's what got me thinking.

I do like how the Stealth looks for sure....very cool!
 
#7 ·
Here's a little useless ignition information.

The 6AL comes in Black now, but it's still a brick. There is a noticeable difference with it on a street car if you tune by the seat of your pants, smoother idle and a little more power from a stop, but I doubt it'll make any difference with nitrous on a drag car.

If you want a small small cap distributor Summits Pro Billet mechanical distributor is as far as I can tell made by the same offshore plant that makes the MSD Pro Billet distributor and it is about half the price. It also comes in Black. It requires an external coil.

The 6AL has the capability of burning up an HEI coil inside a knock off large cap GM distributor (not sure if it would burn up a genuine GM coil). Spent hours on the side of the HWY in the middle of nowhere after discovering that fun fact. I haven't had any problems with reliability after replacing the large cap distributor with a small cap 2-wire pro billet distributor and external coil though. YMMV
 
#11 ·
Cool thanks for the info. I do still drive the car on the street a fair amount. The cam is quite a bit larger than I've ever run, so still getting used to that and the 4500 stall converter. With the efi setup and timing control, the streetability may be quite a bit better. I like the bracket race stuff, so hopefully it will be consistent too. I don't mind working on carbs, just not at the track if I can help it. Rather just race and call it good. :)

I just am not sure if my application is enough to warrant a higher output ignition. I do have friends with the msd boxes that say they helped alot with the idle aspect. Mine isnt horrible now like it first was. But still room for improvement.
 
#12 ·
George, I'd contact the Holley Tech guys for EFI suggestions. I can give you the guy I talk to for all of my problems, but it is on my other computer. My vote is for MPFI, but I'm biased and it's expensive. It does give you room to grow though, and that's the reason I went with MPFI. I purchased the Avenger MPFI kit because I needed the intake. You could go 8 stack, but you wouldn't have enough money to live for a while. :D V8 Kit, Chevy 350, 35mm Air Horn Kit - Part 200095


Any small cap HEI for computer control will work. I had one in my 92 Suburban, so I always shopped for one using that as my vehicle. Jeg's claimed that their distributor gear was melonized, but my cam gear got chewed up so... I'd get a GM melonized gear for the shaft. It's a small shaft, so make sure that it is the correct diameter. The old ones will slide right off when the roll pin is removed, but the new gear will have to be pressed on. Custom engines pressed mine on.


Bob, make sure that you pull on your adapter leads for your distributor. I found one of my wires was uncrimped after tearing my hair out looking for why my car wouldn't start. Not saying that that is your Holley Sniper problem, but it is a quick check.
 
#13 ·
Yeah I don't think that injection looking deal is gonna happen. :grin2: That one cost more than the whole topend! Course I started window shopping on Procharger's site....that may be the next step in a couple years......:thumbsup:

Not sure if the dist gear is anything that needs changed for this cam... the stock Pertronix has been fine. Mike said a standard gear would work when I got the cam from him. Probably pretty mild cam?
 
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