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HOLLEY SNIPER INSTALL & REVIEW (Replaced Fitech)

194K views 397 replies 43 participants last post by  jimmys2.52 
#1 · (Edited)
OK...rather than waste a bunch of 2 finger keyboard pecking, I will TRY to abbreviate this thread, as much as possible.

Car: 1971 Chevelle SS, 439ci BBC, Turbo 400, 3.90 12 bolt rear. Street/Strip Toy, that's been 11.31@117 with 4.10 gears, and a looser converter....

Have had a Fitech GO-EFI4 setup on my car since December 15, 2015.

Car was running great, but after 10 months of experiencing, and seeing others deal with Fitech horrible service, and very inconsistent tech advice, I myself, had had enough....As for the Fitech...it's been sold....

I like the look, and added features of the HOLLEY SNIPER setup. My hope is also that should any tech help be needed, they'll better handle it, since that is/was the general consensus when Googling around about Holley technical support.

ANYWAY...Install was a breeze, since I already had the O2 bung in place, the fuel system done, and a good bit of the wiring could be retrofitted to the new setup...

Some PROS & CONS I will share...

PRO's:
Wideband O2 sensor harness is longer, allowing easier connection and routing
Comes VERY complete...throttle cable bracket, kickdown bracket, base plate studs & nuts, heat shrink type connectors, and pretty decent instructions as well...
PLENTY of wire to hook up ANY engine
Seems to LEARN much faster than the Fitech did.
The handheld is MUCH easier to Navigate. It comes with a stylus, but I found it works just fine with my fat sausage fingers, LOL...
Can control nitrous activation and delayed activation, ignition timing, AC idle, etc.

CON's:
Have yet to see any info on how to datalog, or more importantly, how to view a datalog, once you do one??? (Not sure if that's part of the software that's coming, or not?)
Can't use my $75 throttle cable bracket, as linkage is out farther than a carb, or the Fitech was.
Handheld is hardwired to the cable (I'd rather it unplug, but maybe it's just different, and I'm used to the old one?)
Both the COOLANT and WIDEBAND sensors are different (no biggie for anyone doing a 1st time install, but it sucked knowing I have a spare O2 sensor, that is now worthless...Hopefully, Holley will share the BOSCH PART #.... ;)
Maybe not a "con", but the handheld is almost "too busy"...there's no way you can drive and see what is going on, with just a quick glance...I'm sure it'll get easier with some drive time...Like I said, not really a "con", but worth mentioning...
Handheld's "cradle" kinda sucks...It's like an EZ Pass cradle. I really liked my Fitech's suction cup mount, and actually used it for my test drive...

and that's about it...well, except for I did not get that cool looking sticker in the box...Kinda bummed about that. :(



INITIAL IMPRESSIONS:
It is BADA$$...:grin2: It starts INSTANTLY, but you MUST let it do it's PRIME CYCLE.
Accelerator pedal is almost a bit too sensitive...I found after an hour or so of driving, it was much better....might have just been since it was not really "learning" yet...
Car idles better than ever, with only an hour's learning.
Car runs phenomenal...It always ran real well with the Fitech, and did so up until I removed it, BUT...it was sometimes "not 100%", if that makes sense? In other words, it may scream one time through the gears, then almost hold back a little the next time, but no rhyme or reason, and very intermittent...
Every time I went WOT, it was 100%...or more, ;) Obviously, way too early to say it's just a fluke, or whatever...but we shall see.

Here's a COLD FIRST START:
(battery should have been charged, but you get the point)
https://youtu.be/4fVmCW8Svpo

Here's a HOT START: (after a 5 minute gas stop)
https://youtu.be/_AcJBo_v6t0

Here's plenty of pics, coming up:

From car on the lift, Fitech on the car, ready to start, to lights out, time to go home...in this series, lol.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Out of the box HOLLEY, some side by sides, O2 harness differences, and the Holley on the intake...then the fun begins...wiring...

Sorry, but I wasn't about to try snapping pics while doing the wiring...I was in my zone. ;)
 

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#3 ·
Some shots of the handheld screen, powered up

Existing fuel lines re-used with no mods

Main harness, tucked down near the MSD box
 

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#9 ·
So was this a bolt on and go affair? An AFR reading of 13.8 kinda hints at that. I really don't know how you ever got your FiTech to run at an AFR of 16. My car backfired and blew flames out of the throttle body when blipping the throttle at an AFR of 15.

Anyway, looks like you are having fun. Sticky stuff = fun

The throttle linkage shoulda been silver like the body.

What's with the slot in the rear throttle linkage? Fronts and rears are linked 1:1 right? Almost looks like a mechanical secondary carb. Might just be my eyes playing tricks on me.
 
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#6 ·
800cfm, and has FOUR 100# injectors, instead of four 80#ers...they say good to 650hp.

They have not released their 8 injector system yet.

They have the "shiny", like I got, and the Black Ceramic...

https://www.holley.com/products/fue...sniper_efi/sniper_4bbl_tbi_kits/parts/550-511

Also, the "standard" unit that I have, can control timing, as well as nitrous activation, delay, etc......
I believe it also said it will be able to handle boost, and a 2 step, with the software, once available, but don't quote me on that.

edit, duty cycle % was very low at cruise....didn't/couldn't see at wot, until I figure out how to datalog.
 
#7 ·
Bob, thanks for the info. A tbi injection is on my radar, the poor after sale help from fitch took them off my list. I will be following this thread closely. Thinking out loud,I am considering using the holley frame mounted pump. Could I use the Corvette fuel filter/pressure regulator & run it without a return line?
 
#15 ·
"I really don't know how you ever got your FiTech to run at an AFR of 16. My car backfired and blew flames out of the throttle body when blipping the throttle at an AFR of 15. "

My car is at 14.5:1 now and have been 15.5 with no issues.
This is on an engine with 7" of vacuum.
I guess some of us got good units and some not so good.

Good to hear it's working fine for you Bob.
Keep us updated.
 
#17 ·
Yessir. It runs for 5 seconds, primes after 2.5 seconds, I believe it is.
Fow whatever reason, it sounds loud in the video, and not that loud in person?

I did notice one thing...The Fitech would usually fire right up, when warm, without letting it prime...

The Holley today, didn't want to start right, when I tried that...I then let it prime, and it fired right up and idled fine...Another little difference between the two.
 
#20 ·
No. I never used that.

I have a TanksInc setup with a Walbro 255lph intank pump.
Used my stock 3/8" steel tube for feed and -6 Russell EFI hose for return.

Since my buddy still owes me some cash for the Fitech, but he has a brand new nitrous kit, I just may accept it as partial payment... ;)

Since it is a Sniper nitrous kit, it's a sign from above....lol.

Then I'd need a 340 or 400lph pump...
 
#29 ·
I'd bet money on it. The rebate forced me to sell mine a little cheaper than I could have, but at least it's gone and almost paid for.

Bob, how is the setup menu?
Is it like the FITECH with CI size, cam, ect or do ya just start it up?
Going by memory, so may vary a little, but basically there's an Initial Startup icon, then it prompts you through the basic settings, then it loads the "tune". Then you cycle key and go to Monitor screen, and verify all the sensors are working...that's just on one screen. Took all of about a minute to enter base settings, and verify sensors.

I screwed up the 1st time because I didn't save it...lol. But when I did sensor check, the fuel pump didn't cycle, so I knew something was wrong. Went back, started over, and breezed right through...lol.

One thing I didn't see, but didn't look for anyway, was a RELEARN or "do-over" option.

Wow, I would not have thought the std Walbro 255 would keep up with your current combo. FWIW I've had an Aeromotive 340 in my car for about 4-5 years now and could not be happier. Noise level is lower than either the Walbro or Kyosan I ran previously.
I agree. TanksInc claimed it'll support 630hp or somewhere thereabouts, but realistically I'm probably 100 shy of that.

The few datalog I did do with the Fitech, the duty cycle and pulse width both had plenty of cushion, and the AFR stayed at my 12.5 or even going richer, so it seems to be doing fine.

Once I figure out how to datalog with the new setup, I'm curious to see if it agrees with the old one.
 
#28 ·
Ken, I have the Walbro 400lph intank pump and if I let it prime with the engine off all I can hear is the injectors click.
No whining no nothing!
Kinda scary, cause I can't tell if it's working unless it won't start.
My sons S10 I can hear it prime and my Sub too!
 
#33 ·
I also found this interesting tidbit in the manual, while reading through it last night...

I like the fact that you can control what coolant temperature that the "Learn" process starts at.

You can also turn Learning OFF, which they actually advise you to do. I thought that was odd?
I highlighted with my poor MS Paint skills below.

Elsewhere in the manual, it says you can set it up so that it only runs in Closed Loop after a certain RPM, so if you had a big honkin' cam and crappy idle, that only idled decent in OPEN LOOP, you could set the Closed Loop function to only "work" at an RPM ABOVE, like say, 1500 rpm...Default is Closed Loop above 0 rpm.
 

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#36 ·
The reason for that is to cover some unlikely situations, such as running out of gas and having fuel pressure drop, and having the learn get messed up. You still leave closed loop on, which will always cover anything.

It's not a big deal one way or the other.
 
#39 ·
You can use that filter/regulator, you'd just cap the regulator/return on the throttle body.

I wouldn't use a 5/16" feed to the pump. 5/16" should be ok on the pressure side, but I personally wouldn't use it for a feed to the pre filter and pump. I'd be afraid of cavitation with hot fuel.

You might consider something like this:

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_tanks/parts/19-105
 
#41 ·
The one that is "better" would be a return off the TBI as it would help purge any vapor better, if everything got very hot in the engine compartment.

But I don't think you'd have a problem with the frame mount. You can look at it this way too, that was an OEM part/plumbing method.

So I'd have no issue with the frame mounted reg/filter.
 
#42 ·
On that same topic...

When I go to a 340 or 400lph intank pump preparing for the nitrous, will I need to regulate it BEFORE the throttle body?

The FiTech requires a regulator, before the throttle body's built in regulator, so it does not get overpowered by the fuel...

Is this, or will it be, needed with the Holley?

My plan is to run a low pressure regulator, just prior to the nitrous kit's fuel solenoid. (Coincidentally, a "Sniper nitrous kit, lol)
 
#48 ·
I admit I don't have any experience with any of these FI kits. But does the handheld on this sniper unit have to stay attached all the time? Would I have to have it connected and on display in the car at all times?
 
#49 ·
Dave, you don't have to. I use it, just like I used the other one, as a free set of gauges/sensor monitors.

It's hardwired at the handheld, so if you didn't want it to be there in the passenger compartment, you'd have to plug it in under the hood, and then simply unplug it when you're done making changes. The Fitech allowed you to unplug it inside the car, at the handheld, which is easier, but that's also where mine failed....right at that connection...
 
#53 ·
One other thing was concerning me is the fuel pump. How reliable and quiet are the external pumps? Or what pump would you recommend? I would rather it be an intank pump, but not too long ago I re did my entire fuel system. New stainless tank, mechanical pump, sender, -8 line. The sender is a RobbMc with a return port, that I have capped right now.
 
#54 ·
I really like the Walbro 255 pumps. I've run them for years on my Nova (run 2 now) They are quiet for sure and are very reliable.

A key to external pumps is trying to have the tank gravity feed the pump, or keep the pump as low as possible. Many issues are when fuel gets hot and the pump cavitates trying to pull fuel which kills the pumps and makes them louder.

Since you have the RobbMc sender, you won't want to sump it, so you'd just want to try to get the pump mounted close to the tank and lower which can be done. You're tank doesn't have a baffle in it, so you can't run the fuel super low.
 
#57 ·
I made a bracket for my external Walbro 255lph 60spi pump to get the bottom of the pump level with the bottom of the fuel tank and nearly centered below the fuel outlet. It is protected from road hazards by the axle and differential housing and the rest of the car being in front of it. I had a 4 foot by 3/8th x 4 inch piece of aluminum I've been holding onto for 30 years. Finally found a use for a piece of it.

The Walbro pump is not silent when priming up, but you'll never hear it once your car is started. Zero problems. Although I did buy another one I carry with me just in case. I think the pump I used is the same pump Holley sells in the external pump kit. See below for an available source. The Holley kits are not available.

WalBro 255lph 60psi in-line pump

Mounting hardware

Unobtanium

Holley kit
 
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#59 ·
I'm looking at using the external pump. The spot I see I could use on my 67 is passanger side on frame rail just in front of lower rear control arm. I was thinking this may be too far from tank but then thought that the stock pump can pull fuel from much further away. On the frame there is lower than tank bottom.
 
#64 ·
As long as there's no salt on the roads, I still try to drive my car at least once a week. I hope to get to the track once more before its closed, then will swap the 3.08's back in, and the stock wheels, for some occasional cruising. :wink2:
 
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