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Looking for a Chevelle...

1K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  blm 
#1 ·
Hello.
I've recently been looking for a '66 or '67 Chevelle. I'm not concerned with numbers matching, whether or not an SS, has correct seats, is a true 4 speed, etc. I just want a Chevelle.
I like the '67 as more of a preference but would have no issue with a '66. It won't be a show car, I'll drive it more than just on really nice days and it will get some highway time as well. A/C might be a must as it's awful hot here (OKC) in the summer. With that info, the caveats are, I have no bodywork experience (not much car rebuilding experience overall either) but plan on doing the bodywork and pretty much all of it myself - with some help of course. I may go with an outside service for paint.

With that brief intro to what I plan on doing, I ran across a couple cars within my driving range, just looking for some input as to whether either would be a decent start. My budget is not high so these are more like my price range, but I can drop (sink) money into it periodically and will plan on doing that.


Chevelle
I actually looked at this one, and the body looks pretty decent to my eyes, a little wavy in the left rear quarter along with rust at the bottom of the driver's side door and driver's side fender. Full quarters for both sides come with the car. Looks like enough metal to work with around the windshield and back glass, not completely gone. Dash is solid, not cut up but no dash bezel, gauges or anything for the interior, floors need replaced, same for trunk. Some grill pieces and headlight bezels come with it as well, decent shape. Nothing under the hood, everything is gone. Brand new wiring harness as advertised. The fiberglass hood comes with the car, as well as the rally wheels (minus one beauty ring). I like the rally's.


1967 Chevelle
Haven't touched this one, just a phone call. Most if not all interior trim pieces are there, including the speedo and other dash components - no idea on functionality, door panels also. I'm not interested in a BB but he won't sell without it. not much else to say that the ad doesn't.


Input is appreciated and thanks.
 
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#2 ·
Both need work, I think the rebuilt front end on the 67 could make it a better value, possibly. I bought my 67 from the same seller last year actually through racing junk. I think this one had all of the glass out of it at that time, which is why I bought the other one. If I had somewhere to store it inside I possibly would have bought this one as it had most of the replacement parts with it...
 
#4 ·
I agree... Unless you yourself are a bodyman. That second one needs lots of work... Lots of experience, but may be daunting for a novice...


As for the first one, I am always skeptical when someone shows pictures of other cars. That coupled with the lack of pictures of the Chevelle would make me more suspicious. Why didn't he show more pictures? If he does such great work, then why not complete the car (to the point of final paint), and sell it that way? If you work on and build projects, why would you sell something good???

The second one, "engine"? First, I think the intake is incorrect (and he says its correct), no crank? or rods? Worth $200?
Too much rust, IMO, unless you or a friend can fix it (basically, thats where you can have some big expenses, paying someone to fix the rust)...


For a novice that wants to learn, its probably best to find a "decent" car... Easier to repair and replace than to try and determine what was there in the first place...
 
#6 ·
I would save up for a bit. Once you get around 12 to 15k you should be able to get a decent nice running, driving car with decent paint. Or it will be in middle of restoration and need paint to finish.
 
#9 ·
X2 on what the other guys said. Save more $$ for a better car.
What ever number you think it will take to "restore" one of those other car's, triple it and add 3 years.

And to answer your question, $12K is the jumping point. Do yourself a favor
and get a non-rust bucket, running and driving car. Try for a unmolested all original car.
(they are still out there) It's a lot less daunting to learn how to do mechanics, welding, bodywork on small area's then trying to do an entire car at once. Plus wrenching/repairing while still driving it will keep you interested in the project instead of having it up on jacks for 2 years.
Look at craigslist and the a mount of "projects for sale".... its the same story over and over... ran out of fund's... lost interest... lost storage...kids...wife... life happens.
 
#12 ·
I second this sentiment. Drew: You mention that you have no bodywork experience but could learn. Well if you don't have any experience that should mean you don't own any tools/equipment that are required to do bodywork. Even if you had the knowledge you would need a couple thousand dollars worth of equipment to pull off a descent paint/ body repair job. Could it be done with a $20.00 Harbor freight paint gun and a borrowed compressor? Probably not because one would still be missing a lot of other equipment. My advice would be to get one that doesn't need any body work. Body repair/repaint can run $20K-$30K. That is for a correctly done job that is contracted out. Could still have $10K easily if you had the experience and did ALL the work yourself. $4,500.00 is parts car territory. Plan on spending $10K (plain jane 6 cyl or small v8) - $20K ( something that resembles muscle) as a starting point for something you could drive without worry.
 
#11 ·
I think you have beaten me into submission, well intentioned of course.

I have decided to put this on hold and see where things go from here, I do have other money consuming projects that need work, so this would just add to them or be put in queue for an extended period.

I appreciate the input.
 
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