First timer with all this, rebuilt & restored my original top motor with a Hydroelectric kit. Real easy to do just cleaning and blowing out passages and installing new o-rings & large BBs. My car spent most of it life in rural areas of Mid Mi. The exterior of the motor casting and fluid reservior looked terrible opened it up motor windings, armature & brushes looked brand new! Reservoir side was a little gummed up cleaned up easy. Used some steel wool to refinish the exterior casting, painted the reservoir can with greenish Rustoleum self-etching primer with some VHT engine low gloss clear to match original finish ("Basics of Basics" top pump/motor disassembly and rebuild.
). Hardest thing about rebuilding the motor is reassembling, making sure the motor brushes are properly engaged. I also purchased a new plastic line kit & 2 new cylinders from Hydroelectric(they will match or beat other venders sale prices).
Also snipped the male end of the reservior plug to reveal a through hole and installed a 3" long piece of 1/4" O.D. K&S brass tubing along with removable plastic tubing cap(outside). Leave about an inch exposed to outside for filling and capping.
I took the cheap route and used some trans fluid i had left from a trans rebuild. I set the whole assembly up on a table. Using a clear ketchup type plastic bottle i prefilled cylinders lines and reservior as best as possible then test ran the sytem hooked to a 12v power supply. Used the 2 colored wires coming off the motor as (one or other hooked to +) up or down, black ground wire to negative on the power supply. Cycled it a few times and added more fluid to reservior then proceded to install whole system in the vehicle.
After installing i cycled it a few more times with cylinders not connected to top. Connected a 3' length of 1/4" I.D. clear plastic filler tubing to the reservior brass fill tube(tape tubing to the seat back reinforcment) it so it runs was vertical. Connected up the ketchup bottle(with trans fluid) to the 1/4" tubing and proceded to do final filling.Be prepared when you disconnect for little fluid backup. I found forcing fluid in when operating up or down worked best. You'll know when reservoir is at proper level because it will overflow with an airy/frothy mix of fluid. Your done, unplug surgical tubing add tubing cap to brass tube. I added a small nylon tie strap around the cap for added leakage protection.
Connect cylinders to the top mechanism and cycle it up down 4-5 times, your lines should eventually clear of any air bubbles and each side should operate uniformly. If your system hesitates a while before the cylinders start moving you may have a bad pump or you still have air in system either from a leak, air in lines or your still to low on fluid.
Using factory type clear lines allows you to see if you still have air in the lines or any kinfd of fluid loss.
This is my experience i hope this is helpful to others.