Convertible top bleeding and filling. - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
Convertibles Convertible Q & A's

LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 12, 11:45 AM
Lifetime Premium Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 238
Re: Convertible top bleeding and filling.

If anyone is looking for the pump reservoir plug, it can be found here
70topless goldrush is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 12, 1:40 PM
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 16
Re: Convertible top bleeding and filling.

Originally Posted by HomerBear View Post
Has anyone replaced the soft lines with hard hydralic lines? I was thinking that this would be the only way to stop it from leaking, since hydralics are so popular.
Not OEM but an interesting idea. Why not?
NONHOG is offline  
post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 13, 9:27 AM
Tech Team
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Mi.
Posts: 204
Smile Re: Convertible top bleeding and filling.

First timer with all this, rebuilt & restored my original top motor with a Hydroelectric kit. Real easy to do just cleaning and blowing out passages and installing new o-rings & large BBs. My car spent most of it life in rural areas of Mid Mi. The exterior of the motor casting and fluid reservior looked terrible opened it up motor windings, armature & brushes looked brand new! Reservoir side was a little gummed up cleaned up easy. Used some steel wool to refinish the exterior casting, painted the reservoir can with greenish Rustoleum self-etching primer with some VHT engine low gloss clear to match original finish ("Basics of Basics" top pump/motor disassembly and rebuild. ). Hardest thing about rebuilding the motor is reassembling, making sure the motor brushes are properly engaged. I also purchased a new plastic line kit & 2 new cylinders from Hydroelectric(they will match or beat other venders sale prices).

Also snipped the male end of the reservior plug to reveal a through hole and installed a 3" long piece of 1/4" O.D. K&S brass tubing along with removable plastic tubing cap(outside). Leave about an inch exposed to outside for filling and capping.

I took the cheap route and used some trans fluid i had left from a trans rebuild. I set the whole assembly up on a table. Using a clear ketchup type plastic bottle i prefilled cylinders lines and reservior as best as possible then test ran the sytem hooked to a 12v power supply. Used the 2 colored wires coming off the motor as (one or other hooked to +) up or down, black ground wire to negative on the power supply. Cycled it a few times and added more fluid to reservior then proceded to install whole system in the vehicle.

After installing i cycled it a few more times with cylinders not connected to top. Connected a 3' length of 1/4" I.D. clear plastic filler tubing to the reservior brass fill tube(tape tubing to the seat back reinforcment) it so it runs was vertical. Connected up the ketchup bottle(with trans fluid) to the 1/4" tubing and proceded to do final filling.Be prepared when you disconnect for little fluid backup. I found forcing fluid in when operating up or down worked best. You'll know when reservoir is at proper level because it will overflow with an airy/frothy mix of fluid. Your done, unplug surgical tubing add tubing cap to brass tube. I added a small nylon tie strap around the cap for added leakage protection.

Connect cylinders to the top mechanism and cycle it up down 4-5 times, your lines should eventually clear of any air bubbles and each side should operate uniformly. If your system hesitates a while before the cylinders start moving you may have a bad pump or you still have air in system either from a leak, air in lines or your still to low on fluid.

Using factory type clear lines allows you to see if you still have air in the lines or any kinfd of fluid loss.

This is my experience i hope this is helpful to others.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_00100.6.jpg
Views:	948
Size:	59.5 KB
ID:	130049  

.../ /__________\ \
..| O O __ss__ O O |
....|__|. . . . . .|__|

1971 Chevelle Super Sport convertible
(Body-off / Documented Matching#s w/3 Build Sheets)

Last edited by K.R.Joye; Dec 9th, 13 at 10:00 AM.
K.R.Joye is offline  
post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 14, 1:00 PM
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 22
Re: Convertible top bleeding and filling.

Should the hose fittings on the top cylinders face the rear of the car with the top up, or the front? I still have air in the lines at the ends of the travel and am wondering if I have the cylinders oriented correctly. I'm not able to access my factory manuals right now, so I thought I'd ask here.

Scott in Colorado
70 Malibu Conv., getting new top.
65 Malibu Conv., pile of parts.
raugusti is offline  
post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 14, 1:13 PM
Tech Team
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Mi.
Posts: 204
Thumbs up Re: Convertible top bleeding and filling.

Cylinders should be installed with 90 degree hose fittings facing inward, lower fittings should be pointed up and slightly rearward, top fittings pointing rearward. fittings coming off pump motor should be inline with centerline of motor.
K.R.Joye is offline  
post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old May 30th, 16, 1:53 PM
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 1
Cool Re: Convertible top bleeding and filling.

Filling the top reservoir with a large needle and syringe was plump simple. I have tried the plug removal method and it was a messy pain in the rear. I simply got a large syringe with a large needle and poked the needle thru the rubber plug and squirted in the oil. You create pressure in the reservoir and when you remove the syringe and leave the needle in ti releases the air pressure and helps bleed the system. raise and lower the top a little as you go and it will self bleed as you fill. I put almost a quart in in about thirty min. No mess no fuss. After I was done I Pulled the needle out and the rubber sealed back up like a medicine bottle no leaks a way easy.
67redconv is offline  
Sponsored Links

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Chevelle Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address. Note, you will be sent a confirmation request to this address.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Old Thread Warning
This Thread is more than 391 days old. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
If you still feel it is necessary to make a new reply, you can still do so though.

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome