4 spd torque ratings - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 4th, 00, 3:20 PM Thread Starter
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I need to know the torque ratings for richmond T-10, the Muncie m-21, and m-22.Thinking of puting one of these behind my 70 chevelle big block with 4:11 gears
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 4th, 00, 6:50 PM
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Torque capacities for the Richmond T-10' can be found at their web site http:\\www.richmondgear.com and as for Muncies, I've never seen actual published torque capacities for them but I would take them to be similar to the Richmond. I had an M-21 and then an M-22 behind my 440 (427 +.060)in a 65 Chevelle that I literally beat the daylights out of and never broke either of them. If you're lucky enough to find a nodular iron case Super T-10, they are good for 450+ lb. ft. of torque. Many of the early (72-74) iron case aftermarket ST-10's had 9310 nickel gears just like original M-22 Muncies. I have a 1972 AS9-T10X, 2.64:1 first gear with the 9310 gears - very hard to come by these days. I'm no expert on these matters by any means. This is just the extent of my experience. More info for you to think about.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 00, 7:29 AM
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I talked to the guys at gearzone, they said m-20 are rated at 375, m-21 at 400 and no officail rating for m-22 . You must remeber m-22s were designed for road racing not the drag strip. Yes they have stronger gears but the case is the weak point. They stretch ! Doug Nash made a cast iron case for them years ago but its rare stuff now. It all boils down the weight and traction the more you have of either the shorter the life span
In reality?? I have a 427 thats making about 500 HP on a good day with an extra 150 of N20. I have never had slicks on it but the same m-20 has been in it since 1984.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 00, 8:20 AM
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Same as Roger.( No bottle). But if I was running slicks and 1320's alot, I'd rethink it. ( actually, I'd run a auto ).
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 6th, 00, 3:17 PM
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I will take a Muncie any day over the super T-10, cast or aluminum. The aluminum version is more prone to case destruction than a Muncie. I have seen these babies blow apart, blow the counter gear out the bottom. If the sick dog was not bolted in, the stuff would have hit the ground. It did so after removal from the car. The cast case will do the same thing, only saw one do that.

In all the years of working on Muncies, never have I seen a case blow apart. Seen all the teeth off the input and cluster, seen gears welded to the main shaft, the input try to eat it's way out the front of the case, just about everything, no cases blown apart.

You can head the cluster moving away from the other gears under extreme load by bushing the case an moving the cluster closer to the main drive and input. Noise will be greater, but it makes it stronger.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 7th, 00, 11:18 AM
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Wally, my 21 is going to be rebuilt with the shaft moved closer, creating this M22 - like whine. At least for a while.

Found it was a 1965 case with post 69 side cover. it has the small shaft.

[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 11-07-2000).]
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 04, 1:02 AM
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I had the pleasure of blowing all the teeth off first gear in a saginaw. Now my M-20 seems to be doing alright so far.
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