pinion/yoke question - Chevelle Tech
Top Tech Reference Tech Articles

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 00, 4:10 PM Thread Starter
Tech Team
Richard Morder
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Strasburg , Va
Posts: 361
I was cleaning up the parts for the 12 bolt reassy, when i got to the pinion gear yoke,
i noticed a potential problem, this is the
u-bolt type out of a 69, i had removed it from the gear and it seemed to be the original, and my concern is that there is no tabs(stops) to locate the u-joint at all, what's wrong ???????
thanks for the help, in advance

------------------
RicksRag
Stephen City, Va
TC # 560
ACES # 3702
RicksRag is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 00, 11:13 AM
Senior Tech Team
Phil
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Peoria,AZ. USA
Posts: 1,271
Rear ujoint should have a provision for a c-clip that goes around the cap toward the cross part of the joint -external clip.
the yoke should accept this cap with the clip resting against the inside portion of the yoke.

------------------
Philip Mullaly
72 TPI El Camino
If the opposite of Pro is Con,wouldn't the opposite of Progress be Congress
pmullaly is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 00, 5:46 PM Thread Starter
Tech Team
Richard Morder
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Strasburg , Va
Posts: 361
Philip, the bore (saddle area) where the U-joint rests into, is smooth, no counterbore area for a c-clip, wish i had a d@mn digital camera, does some kind sole have a pinion yoke to give away, and save me this aggrevation ?????

------------------
RicksRag
Stephen City, Va
TC # 560
ACES # 3702
RicksRag is offline  
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 00, 5:58 PM Thread Starter
Tech Team
Richard Morder
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Strasburg , Va
Posts: 361
Philip, thought about how you described the c-clips on the u-joint and how they go towards the inside bore of the yoke saddles (right?), the inside area of the saddle is a machined surface, I'll do the search for the u-joint part no. that adapts my current 10 bolt drive shaft to the 12, go get it, and see if it fits into the saddle,
Thanks
Rick
RicksRag is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 00, 4:37 AM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Long Island
Posts: 943
I wish I had the answer, but I can tell ya this....your 3.73s are on there way; I UPS'd em to ya on Friday

------------------
"A days pay on the wild side"
'67 Chevelle 396/Th400/4.10
Big Block Dave is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 00, 7:43 AM
Senior Tech Team
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: waldorf maryland usa
Posts: 1,774
Rick, If you have trouble finding a u-joint to fit your application, try the local NAPA store, they have them to fit odd matchup situations.

------------------
Leo Paugh
Maryland Chevelle Club #017
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of the low price is forgotten.

MarylandChevelleClub
chev64 is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 00, 7:46 AM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Huntsville/Auburn AL, ~~~~Member #684~~~~
Posts: 224
Rick, I may have just the info you need!

I jsut recently bought a Yoke for my tranny (keep reading!). They just chopped off the drive-shaft and left the u-joint in tact. The U-joint cups where "flush" just as you say.

What you have to do it this.... Put it in a vice, and use a blow torch to heat up the end cups (in particular the metal of the yoke). You will notice a "hole" on each cup loop. Once heated, a fiberous (green) "lava" will start oozing out of this hole.

Let about 1" squirt out on each side, then hammer away as you would with any other u-joint dissasembly. BE CAREFUL Those bearings will want to chatter and they are very hot!!

Also, that stuff the factory squeazes in there to seal things up is some kind if fiberglass mixture. It is very gassious so don't inhale to deeply.

After the u-joint is out, use the torch and a flat tip to reveal the recessed lip you so much need!

------------------
Putting in BB402 and TH400 on August 6th
Java Chat (Mike_72) IRC chat (Mike_72)
http://www.auburnextremeracing.org/drivers/mike/
Like my grandfather said when they stormed the beaches of Normandy, "Press on men, PRESS ON!"

[This message has been edited by 72chevelle350TH350 (edited 08-07-2000).]
72chevelle350TH350 is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 00, 8:25 PM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Aug 1998
Location: Ramsey, MN USA
Posts: 150
There are two types of yokes:
Ones with tabs on each end that use u-bolts to hold the joint in, and Ones with smooth cups that use a snap ring on the u-joint cup to center it and also use straps and bolts instead of u-bolts. This design also has threaded holes for the straps and bolt whereas the u-bolt style will have holes with no threads. The smooth one uses a u-joint with a Spicer part# 5-3147X, and is referred to as a 3R style u-joint. Your driveshaft can be modified by having the rear end yoke cut off and a 3R style weld yoke added to it and welded and balanced. At my shop, this would cost you about $90-125 depending on whether the 3R yoke is a used one or a new one.

By the way, heating the plastic injected factory cups as described above can distort the shaft enough to cause vibration problems, or even warp the ears on the yoke so a new joint cannot be installed correctly.

These 3R style joints require the inside snap rings, and it is mandatory to put the snap rings on the cups that go the the rear end. I see many vehicles come in with vibration problems after u-joints were installed, only to find no snap rings on the cups going to the rearend. Each brand of u-joint used their own style of snap rings, so you can't use just any ones you find lying around. The only ones that work properly are the ones made for the specific brand of u-joint used.

Spicer u-joints are the best joints you can buy.
GMB are the worst & Precision are a close second to worst. (Napa uses Precision)

------------------
70 & 1/2 RS Camaro
SB406 & M20 4spd
9" Rear
70 Malibu
SB350 & TH400

Gold Member # 103
Driveline Technician

http://www.geocities.com/carguy63/
Scooter is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread
Gear in this thread - Powered by O'Reilly Auto Parts

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevelle Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address. Note, you will be sent a confirmation request to this address.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome