pinion/yoke question - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 00, 4:10 PM Thread Starter
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Richard Morder
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Strasburg , Va
Posts: 361
I was cleaning up the parts for the 12 bolt reassy, when i got to the pinion gear yoke,
i noticed a potential problem, this is the
u-bolt type out of a 69, i had removed it from the gear and it seemed to be the original, and my concern is that there is no tabs(stops) to locate the u-joint at all, what's wrong ???????
thanks for the help, in advance

Stephen City, Va
TC # 560
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 00, 11:13 AM
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Rear ujoint should have a provision for a c-clip that goes around the cap toward the cross part of the joint -external clip.
the yoke should accept this cap with the clip resting against the inside portion of the yoke.

Philip Mullaly
72 TPI El Camino
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 00, 5:46 PM Thread Starter
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Richard Morder
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Location: Strasburg , Va
Posts: 361
Philip, the bore (saddle area) where the U-joint rests into, is smooth, no counterbore area for a c-clip, wish i had a d@mn digital camera, does some kind sole have a pinion yoke to give away, and save me this aggrevation ?????

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 00, 5:58 PM Thread Starter
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Richard Morder
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Location: Strasburg , Va
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Philip, thought about how you described the c-clips on the u-joint and how they go towards the inside bore of the yoke saddles (right?), the inside area of the saddle is a machined surface, I'll do the search for the u-joint part no. that adapts my current 10 bolt drive shaft to the 12, go get it, and see if it fits into the saddle,
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 00, 4:37 AM
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I wish I had the answer, but I can tell ya this....your 3.73s are on there way; I UPS'd em to ya on Friday

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 00, 7:43 AM
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Rick, If you have trouble finding a u-joint to fit your application, try the local NAPA store, they have them to fit odd matchup situations.

Leo Paugh
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 00, 7:46 AM
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Rick, I may have just the info you need!

I jsut recently bought a Yoke for my tranny (keep reading!). They just chopped off the drive-shaft and left the u-joint in tact. The U-joint cups where "flush" just as you say.

What you have to do it this.... Put it in a vice, and use a blow torch to heat up the end cups (in particular the metal of the yoke). You will notice a "hole" on each cup loop. Once heated, a fiberous (green) "lava" will start oozing out of this hole.

Let about 1" squirt out on each side, then hammer away as you would with any other u-joint dissasembly. BE CAREFUL Those bearings will want to chatter and they are very hot!!

Also, that stuff the factory squeazes in there to seal things up is some kind if fiberglass mixture. It is very gassious so don't inhale to deeply.

After the u-joint is out, use the torch and a flat tip to reveal the recessed lip you so much need!

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[This message has been edited by 72chevelle350TH350 (edited 08-07-2000).]
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 00, 8:25 PM
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There are two types of yokes:
Ones with tabs on each end that use u-bolts to hold the joint in, and Ones with smooth cups that use a snap ring on the u-joint cup to center it and also use straps and bolts instead of u-bolts. This design also has threaded holes for the straps and bolt whereas the u-bolt style will have holes with no threads. The smooth one uses a u-joint with a Spicer part# 5-3147X, and is referred to as a 3R style u-joint. Your driveshaft can be modified by having the rear end yoke cut off and a 3R style weld yoke added to it and welded and balanced. At my shop, this would cost you about $90-125 depending on whether the 3R yoke is a used one or a new one.

By the way, heating the plastic injected factory cups as described above can distort the shaft enough to cause vibration problems, or even warp the ears on the yoke so a new joint cannot be installed correctly.

These 3R style joints require the inside snap rings, and it is mandatory to put the snap rings on the cups that go the the rear end. I see many vehicles come in with vibration problems after u-joints were installed, only to find no snap rings on the cups going to the rearend. Each brand of u-joint used their own style of snap rings, so you can't use just any ones you find lying around. The only ones that work properly are the ones made for the specific brand of u-joint used.

Spicer u-joints are the best joints you can buy.
GMB are the worst & Precision are a close second to worst. (Napa uses Precision)

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70 Malibu
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