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66 SS finally back on track

99K views 569 replies 47 participants last post by  1in1969 
#1 ·
I got my 66 out of storage today after eight years. It's still a little dusty. I purchased it from a buddy who had taken it off the frame and had it painted ten years ago. It is an original Black with Red interior, California, smog, 4spd, 396 325 hp car. It has the born with engine and trans along with POP and CA black plates. It spent all of its miles in CA as you can tell by the original floors and trunk. He didn't get the red interior color correct, but at this point that will be easy to fix. I also need to get some of the front suspension detailed correctly. We put the engine together last weekend and will be painting it and installing it soon. I took the car to my brother's shop today that has a lift and am excited to get it going again after all these years. I have Dale's cd but will probably be bugging and asking you original restoration guys more questions as I go along. :) I'm trying to put it back together as factory correct as possible.
 

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#3 ·
Black with red interior is my favorite combination.
Can't wait to see the progress and finished car.
:thumbsup:
 
#4 ·
:thumbsup: Nice
 
#11 · (Edited)
I finally have made some progress on my 66 and thought I would share some photos and start my build thread.
I completely disassembled the front suspension because my buddy that had started this frame off about ten years ago wasn't paying much attention to original detail. He had installed mostly aftermarket parts but I want it as close to factory original as possible. Lucky for me he had kept the original tie rods, idler arm etc. I went through each part and cleaned, detailed and reassembled. I am trying to do my research and any helpful information would be greatly appreciated. I do want to thank Jacquie with Shevelles.com for her help and especially thank Jim Larson for the countless emails, pictures and help he has provided. He has a wealth of knowledge!
The original born with engine is in primer and ready to paint and then install along with the original Muncie 4spd. That will be my next step.
 

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#16 ·
Actually Jim, I believe Len got it right here. If you look closely at his pic, the pass. side is nuts to the rear because the adjustment sleeve is rotated so that the bolts are at the top. The driver's side is nuts to the front because the sleeve is rotated so that bolts are at the bottom. It just depends where the toe adjustment lands at. See attached pics from cars with original steering linkage.

Len, I aplaude your efforts to re-use good assembly line parts rather than aftermarket. :thumbsup: :beers:
 

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#18 ·
Maybe I spoke to soon Bill. I was going off something I read in the AIM. Just looked it up on UPC 9 A2. Under the heading CAUTION on the clamp is says "Bolt heads must be positioned to the rear side of the clamp". I thought this was due to avoid clearance issues when turning the steering. It's been a while; but I think if you loosen the clamps, you can rotate the clamps to whatever position you want.

Thinking those two photos may have been after someone adjusted to toe in and didn't bother to take care to rotate the clamps. Or the original assembly line worker didn't follow the manual.

Here is a photo of a 11,000 mile car that I don't think has had to toe-in adjusted.

I am by no means an expert, just trying to let Len know what I have read or heard. Len, if you look at the photos that Jacquie sent you it also slows the bolt heads to the rear. I will have to check the car I have out in the back 40.
 

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#24 ·
original fuel line clips with green zinc primer, original 444 dated feb 66 bellhousing. I sent the original power steering gear box off to fellow TC member Rick Nelson to have professionaly rebuilt and plated. Looking forward to seeing the finished product and getting it back on.
 

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#26 ·
engine painted, M20 detailed and ready to install. Temporary valve covers of course. We will be putting one more coat of engine paint (with just a touch more shine) on to overspray the exhaust manifolds, bellhousing and bypass hose.
 

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#27 · (Edited)
We used the original survivor paint on the smog bracket to match the engine paint. More of the original M20, dated March 1st, 66 with its tag. Still have a little more detailing of the tag and bolts but getting there.
A better pic of the smog bracket, paint match on this thread. I used it to answer a question not knowing you can't use a picture twice.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=697082
 

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#34 · (Edited)
Very Very nice work, Congrats ....... color combo :beers:


Iam slowly working on reconditioning my original parts for the day I go back to stock ..... have a question on the M20 Muncie tag , should that number be the same on all 66 M20's ?

Mine is 3890534 case stamp P1201 car is a Jan 19 build ............original to car as far as I know
 
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