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How do I remove differential cross shaft bolt?

3K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  rcrchsr16 
#1 ·
I've done this before, but seem to have forgotten how?

I have the rear cover off and the bolt loose but I can't get it out. I slide it as far as I can and it hits the bearing cap. I don't remember removing the bearing cap to install the locker, and I had to remove the cross shaft to install the locker. What am I doing wrong? I've already tried turning the wheels but it seems like no matter where the bolt ends up, I can't get it past the bearing cap?
 
#3 ·
I pulled the bolt out as far as I could and then pushed the wheel towards the outside of the car and the shaft moved about 3/4" out but then it seemed like it snagged on something and I couldn't push it out with my finger. Maybe I have to pry on the part of the locker that is next to the shaft? Hmm, now that I think of it, maybe that would work.
 
#4 ·
Doesn't sound good, Enrique. I've broken those cross shaft retainer bolts before. One, I was lucky enough to fish out the broken piece, and get the shaft out. The other, no such luck, so I left it alone in there. Then one day, I'm driving down the freeway, and get this BAM BAM BAM under the car, whole car shaking violently. It was the cross shaft finally working itself free, and whacking the pinion gear as the diff spun around. Scratch one 10 bolt rear.
 
#6 ·
okay, I got the shaft out. It had some pretty deep "scratches" on one end that I think were snagging. I think I have a spare cross shaft around here, but does anyone make a replacement (8.2 10bolt)? The instructions from Richmond for the locker mentioned replacement pins but the ones I've found online say "only for Richmond mini-spools".
 
#12 ·
I don't know, I guess scratches isn't the right word. They're more than deep enough to catch a nail on and emery cloth won't polish them out. That and the powertrax instructions state in bold letters to replace it if ANY scratches or imperfections are present?

Also it looks like it is a 3/4" diameter. The shaft also has to flat sections that the fit perfection into the 11/16" wrench.
 
#17 ·
If you're just trying to get the bolt that holds the cross shaft out, try prying behind the bolt head with a screwdriver as you're turning the bolt with with a wrench. You better get the whole bolt out and in your hand before trying to remove the shaft. Break the pin side of the bolt off in the carrier and you have a nearly impossible task to get it out!
If you're trying to get the actual shaft out, you need to push/tap it up with a brass rod about 1-1 1/2" on the bolt side, with the carrier tilted at an angle- shaft tilted inwards at the top. When you get it to this point, turn the carrier (with the shaft sticking out at the top) towards the open cover side so you can get a set of pliers or wrench to gently twist and pull the shaft out. Try not to scratch the shaft too much, but clean up any scratches with a honing stone. I've reused these after scratching/honing them in a circle track dirt car with no failures. Want to be sure? Spot Check with Magnaflux- available from McMaster Carr for any do it yourselfer that can follow instructions on the cans.
Be careful when tilting the carrier, the gears and shims/bearings inside will missalign and could even fall out.
Push out the axles with a wide screwdriver or prybar from inside of carrier or pull them out from the brake plate side. I like doing it from inside the carrier so I can keep everything together inside there.
 
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