Overheating Issue still - Chevelle Tech
Heating & Cooling Heating, cooling and air conditioning

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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 17, 1:04 PM Thread Starter
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John
 
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Overheating Issue still

Okay Engine still getting hot more uphill but still 200 to 210 on level it used to not go over 180, Chevrolet 5.7L crate block with 305 heads not my build it came this way, okay here is what I checked, first thought head gasket as I removed all the water even used shop vac, replaced with distilled water and new pure green anti freeze, when I drain radiator as I replaced gauge contents is not as green as I would think it should be, it sloes more yellow colored or dirty, I checked the oil no foam or milky color, when I run car with cap off, I do see bubbles during the flow I have the thermostat removed as I thought is was that at first, still same issue, I noticed after sitting for 2 weeks as I travel for work, when I start I see water dripping under car at header gasket and pipe connection on to floor for couple minutes also from tail pipe. I removed all the plugs did compression test all cylinders 190 across the board, with thermo laser when hot check tank on radiator down flow champion 4 row temp 134 to 145 or so top and bottom tank, top of aluminum intake manifold area 220, head temp 230, next step tomorrow morning to remove manifold and check any blockage and or gasket issue there as I removed this in the past to change a valve spring that had broken, also have dual 1850 fans with aluminum shroud and new aluminum reverse flow long water pump, any other suggestions? maybe no correct fitting Edelbrock intake?
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 17, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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John
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

Okay removed Intake manifold there were a couple drops of antifreeze on top of oil, might have been from lifting intake off engine, okay questions the four corners of the block those are the water passages?
I see on the intake manifold underside that only the front 2 are open allowing water to pass, should all four corners be open to allow proper cooling to the heads? maybe incorrect edelbrock intake manifold
also notice the water passages seem to be brown color inside which would maybe be why the antifreeze is yellowed in color and if so what could cause this? I have taken photos as soon and will upload in short while
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Last edited by Bradco; Feb 12th, 17 at 10:46 AM. Reason: upload photos
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 17, 11:48 PM
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Steve
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

Can you post couple pics of your shroud and fan setup?
What are the timing specs for the engine?

TXCR13
1966 Chevelle 300 2dr Sedan
385, Flat Top Hypers, Performer RPM, S.M.I. 750 Q-Jet, 72cc Dart Platinum 200cc runners, U.D. Harold 223/233 112 LSA Cam, 700-R4, PS, Manual Disc Brakes, AC, Hedman headers with 2-1/2" exhaust.

1946 Studebaker Coupe- street gasser finally underway!
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 17, 9:58 AM Thread Starter
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John
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

Quote:
Originally Posted by TXCR13 View Post
Can you post couple pics of your shroud and fan setup?
What are the timing specs for the engine?
Begin Timing by ear, as no tape on balancer, here is s photo of what mine basically looks like, I removed the clutch fan setup I previously had as it has always been running hot since I installed the engine,
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 17, 11:09 AM
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Greg.
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

If the Top of your DF Rad is only 134/145 Degrees there is very little direct flow of the Hot 220* coolant going into the Rad

The Coolant from the Engine going into the Top of the DF Rad should be Hot like 180* to 200*
the Coolant coming out of the DF Rad at the Bottom should be at lest 10* cooler 170* to 190*

I do not like the Reverse Flow Water Pump and it could be the problem

Does the Intake Water passages lineup with the Block water passages
and do they work better for a Regular Flow Water Pump direction VS the Reverse Flow Water Pump direction

Any way you can take a pic of the Front/Grill side of the Rad
and better pic(s) of the Engine side of the Rad of the Sides & Bottom

67 Chevelle Malibu SS Cdn
Born 283 / PG / A51
Now 468/Th400 2,500 stall/ S60 3.70 Gs
Prev M&H MSS001 street Tires/dress 2015/9/20
60' = 1.756 1/8 = 7.815 et / 89 mph
1/4 = 12.253 et / 111 mph
NEW Best on M/T S/R #6641 street Tires/dress 2016/10/9
60' = 1.720 1/8 = 7.747 et / 89 mph
1/4 = 12.112 et / 112 mph
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 17, 3:01 PM Thread Starter
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John
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk's67SS View Post
If the Top of your DF Rad is only 134/145 Degrees there is very little direct flow of the Hot 220* coolant going into the Rad

The Coolant from the Engine going into the Top of the DF Rad should be Hot like 180* to 200*
the Coolant coming out of the DF Rad at the Bottom should be at lest 10* cooler 170* to 190*

I do not like the Reverse Flow Water Pump and it could be the problem

Does the Intake Water passages lineup with the Block water passages
and do they work better for a Regular Flow Water Pump direction VS the Reverse Flow Water Pump direction

Any way you can take a pic of the Front/Grill side of the Rad
and better pic(s) of the Engine side of the Rad of the Sides & Bottom
I thought I had answered , no I have not tried Regular Water pump direction as I got it with this setup, but purchased new aluminum water pump but same reverse flow, in order for me to change I would have to change the setup. regarding the intake that one I will have to look at tomorrow when I get home, I have checked and found a different Intake that is supposed to be on that year motor, but I am already tired of throwing money into this engine, I will take pics of the front side etc tomorrow, currently has Vintage Air condenser in front, but I had overheating issues before I put this in, I tried new clutch fan, bought factory shroud, would not fit radiator then went with the dual fans for the champion radiator, I would have thought 4 row radiator would have stopped this no go,
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 17, 6:37 PM
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Re: Overheating Issue still

135 degrees at radiator with no thermostate and 220-230 at engine is a lack of flow. Either a clogged radiator or a bad impeller on pump is where I would start.

64 Chevelle 496
64 F100 Street Rod with BBC /Chevy trapped in a ford body
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 24th, 17, 4:17 PM Thread Starter
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John
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

Okay Finally home, here pictures of radiator and fans, also underside of intake, with picture of top of engine, to answer question on clogged radiator, not the case as I bought new and can see water flowing, water pump impeller, also not case as it also is only month old this was happening with other pump as well, also new one is aluminum, thinking of removing heads tomorrow morning, if I do, as I leaving again on Sunday, should I coat the cylinder walls, the car is in a closed garage, and I will be back again Friday
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 17, 6:55 AM
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Greg.
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

First off as I said in my # 5 Post
" If the Top of your DF Rad is only 134/145 Degrees there is very little direct flow
of the Hot 220* coolant going into the Rad
The Coolant from the Engine going into the Top of the DF Rad should be Hot like 180* to 200*
the Coolant coming out of the DF Rad at the Bottom should be at lest 10* cooler 170* to 190* ..... "

and as StevenS said in his # 7 Post
" 135 degrees at radiator with no thermostate and 220-230 at engine is a lack of flow.
Either a clogged radiator or a bad impeller on pump is where I would start. "

I also see the following based on your above pics;
- if that is a A/C unit in Front of the Rad it seems to be covering all of it
and therefore there is a Air Flow Restriction plus Hot Air from it
is going to make the Air flowing to the Rad warmer which will reduce the cooling of the Coolant in the Rad

- Efans can/do cool a 2 Row Tubed Cored Rad better than a 4 Row Tubed Core Rad
as you have put another air flow restriction for the Efans to pull air thru
the stock Mechanical setup would work better pulling air thru the 4 Row Rad and the A/C unit

- I am not a fan of Metal Shrouds and it does not have any Hwy Air Flow Flapps on it for more Air Flow on the Hwy

Here are Pics of my car's 2 Row Tubed Core Rad/Efan/Shroud setup that keeps my Engine running at 180*
on the Hwy with one or no Efan on and in city with 2 Efans on



Here is a Pic of the Front showing the Trans Cooler located down low for lots of UNrestricted Air Flow

-SS454- and StevenS like this.

67 Chevelle Malibu SS Cdn
Born 283 / PG / A51
Now 468/Th400 2,500 stall/ S60 3.70 Gs
Prev M&H MSS001 street Tires/dress 2015/9/20
60' = 1.756 1/8 = 7.815 et / 89 mph
1/4 = 12.253 et / 111 mph
NEW Best on M/T S/R #6641 street Tires/dress 2016/10/9
60' = 1.720 1/8 = 7.747 et / 89 mph
1/4 = 12.112 et / 112 mph
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 17, 9:08 AM Thread Starter
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John
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk's67SS View Post
First off as I said in my # 5 Post
" If the Top of your DF Rad is only 134/145 Degrees there is very little direct flow
of the Hot 220* coolant going into the Rad
The Coolant from the Engine going into the Top of the DF Rad should be Hot like 180* to 200*
the Coolant coming out of the DF Rad at the Bottom should be at lest 10* cooler 170* to 190* ..... "

and as StevenS said in his # 7 Post
" 135 degrees at radiator with no thermostate and 220-230 at engine is a lack of flow.
Either a clogged radiator or a bad impeller on pump is where I would start. "

I also see the following based on your above pics;
- if that is a A/C unit in Front of the Rad it seems to be covering all of it
and therefore there is a Air Flow Restriction plus Hot Air from it
is going to make the Air flowing to the Rad warmer which will reduce the cooling of the Coolant in the Rad

- Efans can/do cool a 2 Row Tubed Cored Rad better than a 4 Row Tubed Core Rad
as you have put another air flow restriction for the Efans to pull air thru
the stock Mechanical setup would work better pulling air thru the 4 Row Rad and the A/C unit

- I am not a fan of Metal Shrouds and it does not have any Hwy Air Flow Flapps on it for more Air Flow on the Hwy

Here are Pics of my car's 2 Row Tubed Core Rad/Efan/Shroud setup that keeps my Engine running at 180*
on the Hwy with one or no Efan on and in city with 2 Efans on



Here is a Pic of the Front showing the Trans Cooler located down low for lots of UNrestricted Air Flow

All points taken but on #7 the reason I purchased this radiator with the original radiator same issue, all why I changed water pump also was getting hot before I installed the AC condenser in front, but as you mentioned probably less cooling now, but have no choice of where to put the condenser as it is always hot here anyway there will always be hot air entering front, so question is as I removed the intake, should I put new gasket and reinstall and perform cooling system testing further? I can have e the radiator checked
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 17, 9:30 AM
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Steve
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

John

One thing I can add. My BB has no thermostat. Champion 2 large row radiator. With the car at idle and cap off it flows like a river and water will splash out the opening. Car runs too cool. How much flow do you see?
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 17, 10:09 AM
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Sheepster. BAH!
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

think your reverse flow pump is the problem
once put a std rotation pump on a 5.0 mustang by mistake it had the exact same problems.
looks like v belt why cant you use std rotation? Know anyone with one you can borrow
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Quote:
This post is a duplicate of a post that you have posted in the last five minutes.
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 17, 10:48 AM
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Steve
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

Does your water pump turn clockwise or counter clockwise with your belt setup?
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64 Chevelle 496
64 F100 Street Rod with BBC /Chevy trapped in a ford body
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 17, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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John
 
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Re: Overheating Issue still

Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenS View Post
Does your water pump turn clockwise or counter clockwise with your belt setup?
counter, also question regarding gasket, on the head for the intake, it has 1 port I guess for cooling on each corner 4 for exhaust and 1 in middle, should the rear and the single in the middle be covered by gasket, or open, on the intake manifold it is closed on the end port, but not sure if this is the correct intake, as I have seen other with bypass open rear and front for water, as I am going to get gasket today to put intake back on, and the closest auto store here store is 45 minutes away
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 17, 12:15 PM
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Re: Overheating Issue still

The water pump isn't reverse flow, but reverse rotation, same flow. The rear ports on the intake do not allow flow of the coolant!!

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