power master mini starter - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 17, 7:04 PM Thread Starter
p40
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butch
 
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power master mini starter

hey all, would like to know if anybody is using the power master mini starter, and if so how is it working for you. im looking to maybe buying one , keep seeing were there is no heat sink problems ?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 17, 8:45 AM Thread Starter
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butch
 
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Re: power master mini starter

i mean to say heat soak
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 17, 10:49 AM
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Re: power master mini starter

I have no problems with mine. The main power lug is a little short, but other than that, it works fine.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 17, 2:35 PM
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Re: power master mini starter

I have one that works great. I did have to replace the solenoid a while back, but it is an easy fix. Only thing I don't like is the metric nut on the solenoid battery connection. I wish it was a standard size, but it's not a deal breaker.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 17, 6:17 PM
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Re: power master mini starter

I have a Jegs brand mini starter, so not sure who makes it for them. However it's worked flawlessly for the past 6+ years.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 17, 7:48 PM
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Re: power master mini starter

I have one and its great, spins the BBC like it has no plugs installed.
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Your just jealous because you can't hear the voices!

1967 Olds Cutlass 468 BBC/T400
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 17, 4:08 PM Thread Starter
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butch
 
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Re: power master mini starter

the reason im asking is im having trouble getting the car to start after getting wormed up. iv been through 2 mini starters , they have heat wrap on both of them. ive checked the timing its good . i can hook batt charger up to it and it will crank over good. im wondering if this could be ground problem, iv got batt in the trunk , iv got braided ground strap from block to frame , ground strap from block to fire wall , the ground from batt is going to the trunk hinge, im lost, could use all the help i can get thanks in advance .
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 17, 5:08 PM
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Eric
 
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Re: power master mini starter

Check your voltage at the starter, you may have a voltage drop due to the distance from battery to the starter. You also may have a weak battery.

Your just jealous because you can't hear the voices!

1967 Olds Cutlass 468 BBC/T400
1963 Plymouth Fury 440/Torqueflite
2006 Ford Mustang GT (momma's car)

http://s1141.photobucket.com/albums/n587/oldcutlass/

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 17, 5:58 PM
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Re: power master mini starter

Have my Battery in Trunk

Ground on the Back Frame

Good big Red + Cable to the Front

Never any problems starting the car

You do have to make sure where you Ground the Neg. Cable you go down to Shiny Metal for the Ground

Trunk Hinge would be the last place that I would ground anything

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 17, 10:00 PM
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Re: power master mini starter

Ideally you would run that ground wire from the battery in the trunk to the actual bolt that holds the starter on. Grounding through the frame at the back of the car doesn't work as well as you might think. My Power Master mini starter kicks ass.

65 Chevelle 2Dr. Post,Global West stage 3, Small Block, Small Journal 337cid. Howards roller cam .570/.570" lift 227/233 duration @ .050 LS112, Speed Pro forged pistons 10 to 1, Trick Flow 195,23 degree heads, Holly 750 Ultra, Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 17, 5:05 AM
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Re: power master mini starter

There is nothing wrong with using the body for the battery ground [ -ve ] if the batt is in the trunk. It will provide less voltage drop than running a battery cable from the battery to the eng block, unless the cable was really thick. Like 3/4"OD.

I see two possible problems with your current [ pardon the pun! ] set up, easily fixed.

[1] Battery cable connected to hinge. Hinge is probably just spot welded to body, so all the battery current is passing through a few spot welds. Not enough contact area. Connect the batt [ -ve ] cable to the trunk floor or wheel well.

[2] F'wall to block braided strap. It needs to be a piece of battery cable or something similar that has the same conductor cross sectional area as a batt cable.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 17, 5:13 AM
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Re: power master mini starter

Mini starter has become a generic term. What is important is the [a] type & [b] power rating. The best is the MSD Dyna Force, rated at 3.4 HP. It is the Hitachi design, sol above, motor below, better than the Denso design which has the motor above, sol below. I have used a number of the Chinese copies of the MSD with zero problems, I get them here for $125, probably made in the same factory as the MSD, except one goes into a plain box.......Mate bought a genuine MSD. Could see no difference side-by-side other than MSD sticker....

Take no notice of tq ratings, they are useless, designed to fool you.
The HP rating is what tells you how much 'oomph'it will generate & how easily it will spin that BB engine. Some starters are only 1.2 HP, the MSD nearly 3 times as much..
Guess which one will struggle...
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 17, 6:57 AM
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Re: power master mini starter

I use this one for BBC applications. You can use all 3 mounting holes, I've seen broken outer mounting holes more times than I care to admit with hi comp engines. Also make sure you use good quality knurled starter bolts. Do not use metric or the ones supplied.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9526/reviews

Your just jealous because you can't hear the voices!

1967 Olds Cutlass 468 BBC/T400
1963 Plymouth Fury 440/Torqueflite
2006 Ford Mustang GT (momma's car)

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 17, 12:09 PM
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Re: power master mini starter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gtogeoff View Post
There is nothing wrong with using the body for the battery ground [ -ve ] if the batt is in the trunk. It will provide less voltage drop than running a battery cable from the battery to the eng block, unless the cable was really thick. Like 3/4"OD.

I see two possible problems with your current [ pardon the pun! ] set up, easily fixed.

[1] Battery cable connected to hinge. Hinge is probably just spot welded to body, so all the battery current is passing through a few spot welds. Not enough contact area. Connect the batt [ -ve ] cable to the trunk floor or wheel well.

[2] F'wall to block braided strap. It needs to be a piece of battery cable or something similar that has the same conductor cross sectional area as a batt cable.
According to Ron Francis who has been in the business of making custom wiring sets for the last fifty years it is definitely incorrect to ground a battery mounted in the trunk to the frame at the back of the chassis. This fact is highlighted in ALL CAPS at the top of the instructions that came with the Ron Francis wiring kit. Maybe you know more than Ron Francis does but I kind of doubt that. They also recommended using 1/2" diameter copper.

65 Chevelle 2Dr. Post,Global West stage 3, Small Block, Small Journal 337cid. Howards roller cam .570/.570" lift 227/233 duration @ .050 LS112, Speed Pro forged pistons 10 to 1, Trick Flow 195,23 degree heads, Holly 750 Ultra, Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap.

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 17, 2:09 PM
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Not trying to step on toes, but if your concern is to get a good ground at the starter, the voltage drop from a longer, appropriate sized, copper cable will be much less than the voltage drop through the steel frame based on the conductivity of the materials.
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