Fill your bath tub up with water, You and the family take four or five baths in the SAME water. Is the water worn out ! NO...
The water (oil) is just fine. BUT DIRTY.........................
Note: I prefer a shower.
Note also----- G.M. dealers are in the middle of a problem.
They say " Change oil every 4000 miles "
Your new G. M. product ( ON THE DASH ) say you have 56% life left on your oil, AND you have 5000 miles on your oil. DAAAAaaaaaa !
It is back to, Oil gets dirty.
Bob
todays oils are a completely different spec, like SE or SF, if it isn't one of the newer specs, use it in your lawnmower or other engines and not in your Chevelle or your daily driver unless it's an oil burner, then, use it when it gets low in those engines. YMMV
todays oils are a completely different spec, like SE or SF, if it isn't one of the newer specs, use it in your lawnmower or other engines and not in your Chevelle or your daily driver unless it's an oil burner, then, use it when it gets low in those engines. YMMV
I bought a complete "tune up" kit for my lawn mower; Plug, air filter, and semi-synth oil for $6...
I originally had some of this oil, as I might buy 6 quarts to be sure I had enough, or in case one spilled, etc... I also liked to carry a few bottles on longer trips (just to be sure I didn't get caught short)...
I am a bit of a pack rat, so when I moved 94+ years ago), I boxed it up... I forgot about it, and recently came across it...
I wouldn't use it in my new car, or my Chevelle, unloess it was an emergency (caught a quart low, etc)...
Thankfully, nothing I own burns oil, and I hope I fixed the small leak in my Chevelle... But MAYBE someday, I'll pick up another old car...
I just can't bring myself to throw it out (my City "recycles" the oil)
If your oil is black, does it automatically mean it needs to be changed? My oil turns black after 200 miles or so. I wouldn't think so. Sorry for the hijack. To the OP, I'd use it.
I'd use that stuff without a second thought. It would never have occurred to me that it would be "expired".
Some of our engines were intended to run on the crap oils of the fifties and early-to-middle-'60's, having an outdated formulation from twelve years ago is STILL newer/better than what was used back when the car was built. (And, as has been mentioned...old enough to still have a reasonable amount of high-pressure anti-wear additive!)
Depending on the application, oil DOES "wear out". Run it in a motorcycle and see what the transmission gears do to it. The oil molecules get "sheared", and the viscosity changes. That's not dirt, that's BEAT-UP oil.
However, the typical problem with auto engine oil is contamination (not specifically dirt) due to blow-by, (fuel dilution, and contamination from combustion by-products--water and exhaust) wear particles (iron, copper, aluminum) and silica (sand and "dust")
Seriously! Dude you need to lighten up. I was just kidding. It was all said tongue in cheek. You know, joking around, kidding a little. But I guess you missed the and the
In your research concerning ZDDP in oil, This was take from Bob The Oil Guy's Site,
"
Concern: People are worried about the SM oils not having as much ZDDP as the SL and older oils. The reason ZDDP has been used for years is not because of its superior performance but rather its low cost and dual function as an antioxidant. It also has anticorrosive properties.
There are other additives. Some newer oils do not have any ZDDP, and they are excellent products. Just the same, I prefer oils with ZDP for now. The research shows that 0.03 is all that is needed and has the same function as higher levels. The only reason to have more is because your engine is consuming the ZDDP secondary to borderline lubrication from oil alone.
And lastly, too much can be corrosive itself and has shown in some tests to actually increase wear."
Do you agree or disagree with the percentage needed? What do you consider "Too Much" He list's it as an anitoxident and not anti wear. I thought it was used as AW to prevent premature wear on the cam.
I think the actual PPM required of any additive including zinc, is application specific. I think right now Lucas has the highest PPM of Zinc. The last seminar I was at the Lucas rep said they did that because they have a big following of alcohol engines that use there product. The alcohol dilution really wrecks the additive package, so they add the extra to make up for that.
Because the additives fall to the bottom. I have a tractor I don't use much so I use Pennzoil Ultra, unlike regular oil it will not separate when setting. I have a good friend that was taking his time building an old Harley so he put all of his parts in a 5 gal bucket with Regular Pennzoil and after a year the oil in the bucket was much darker at the bottom. So if you have old oil on a shelf shake it up and use it. Otherwise use a good synthetic Oil if you want it to last. 2010 Subaru with 270,000 so far. Runs like new. Change oil 5000-7000 if it's nice enough to get under it.
I've been using Valvoline oil for over 50 years in my cars. I change oil every 3000 miles. It just works for me, never blew an engine up. My '01 Tahoe has 250,000 miles, my 86 Monte Carlo SS has 247,000 miles, both on original engines. I'd hop in either one and drive coast to coast and not worry. Back to original question, I've never had any oil sit around for years, but I've got a couple of quarts of trans fluid that have been on the shelf for 10-12 years. I think I'll throw it out rather than take a chance.
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