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Building an engine cradle?

21K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  Dean 
#1 ·
Any one built there own cradle for a bbc. I've got 3 bbc setting around and am getting tired of them being in my way and having to lift them around my garage. I know I could just buy one, but what would be the fun in that? Pus buying three of them would get kinda expensive and this would be a good way to practice on welding. Anyways, if you've done this, know some one who has, or know of a site/thread that gives dimensions on this I would appreciate the help. Jason Hopson
 
#2 ·
I've built a few. I just use old bed frames for material. It's angle iron, 1/8"x1.5", plenty strong enough for a frame. Build a rectangle box, angles up, then attach some legs with a couple holes to bolt the rear to, below the dowels is good enough. Some legs for the front, cut/bent on top, with a hole for one of the motor mount holes is sufficient. For wheels, I've bought some creeper wheels in the automotive section of Walmart before. Test them first, you want to find the ones that don't have rough spots that hang up when rolling or turning. Just weld 'em on underneath the frame after it's all done, then mount the engine. Costs about $7 to make, for the casters. You can pick up old bed frames from just about anywhere for free. Check the dumpsters around mattress warehouses, they toss 'em when they take the trade in beds.
 
#3 ·
Find yourself a "Piano Dolley" and build yourself something that looks like it. I have a piano dolly but I sure wouldn't use it for rolling or storing engines. I paid $150 for it. :)

Making something like it yourself would probably cost you $20 or so. Needless to say my piano dolley is STRONG.

Whatever you build just adapt it to the motormount holes and the bell housing bolt holes.
 
#4 ·
Got any pics? Just an idea of what it would look like and I can easily get started. I've always heard that bed frames were considered some of the strongest angle iron out there. I'll see if I can find some around. Thanks for the help so far, Jason Hopson
 
#5 ·
I bought a set of these off Ebay...



Cost around $35 and works very well in storing and transporting engines. Fits SB and BB even with kickout oil pans AND motor/tranny combos. Very sturdy and stable.

I've also bought a couple wooden "appliance dollies" complete with casters from Harbor Freight for less than $20 ea.

 
#10 ·
Never really thought about shopping carts. Makes good sense. I know some people at the grocery stores, Wal-Mart, etc I'll see if they have any that's ruined or look bad and that they don't want. Won't still 'em. If something screws up it's usually in my hands when it does. So I would be the one to get caught. Any pics of them? Do you just cut the cart part of and set them on there? Weld braces to them? Thanks for the suggestions. Jason Hopson
 
#11 ·
I would strongly recommend the stand that i got from Jeg's. And i don't work for jeg's nor am i trying to give them a plug. It's just that i'm so impressed by the product:



Also, see my posts entitled, "This guy is @#$%ing NUTZ" and "Engine swapping: My thoughts and suggestions."


It's coated and the wheels make it real convient; no need to use a hoist to move the engine around. It also can (and has) been used as a test run stand with excellent results.

Now, if you enjoy making things yourself, then by all means proceed. But the thing is, after you are done gathering the parts and putting it all together, How much did you really save? The stand is $80 at jegs.
 
#12 ·
It's coated and the wheels make it real convient; no need to use a hoist to move the engine around. It also can (and has) been used as a test run stand with excellent results.
When used as an test run stand, was there any concern about it torquing over to the side and falling? Watching a motor in a car that can twist a few inches to the side under throttle has always made me wonder if they'd twist all the way over when run on a stand.
 
#13 ·
Stewart, As far as being something that has to last forever, it really doesn't have to. I've got 3 BBC laying around my garage and am constantly needing to move them and at 375lbs. a piece that becomes quite a chore. Plus I hate to pay 240 $ for three engine cradles when I don't need any thing that "serious". Plus you'd be amazed at some of the stuff I find laying around. I'm a land surveyor and mostly deal with commercial sites so I get to find some pretty cool stuff. Everybody makes fun of me at work for being a pack rat, but I always find a use in the "junk" I bring home. When I start building my engine I will end up buying a good cradle. but for right now I just need cheap. Thanks, Jason Hopson
 
#14 ·
There was no concern on my part because the engine doesn't exhibit any tendancy to torque over. This may be because the the stand's legs bolt directly to the block and thus possibly doesn't allow the engine move in a twisting motion.

It's sort of like an engine mounted in a dragster or altered; They just don't move. Or an engine rigidly mounted in a regular car with a motor plate.

For something to think about, watch this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iblUwHNV0DM
 
#16 · (Edited)
Here is one I made.
I used 1 x 2 tubing for the base for rigidity and so I could attach casters. The casters are bolted on so they can be replaced if they break. If you weld the casters on, and one ever breaks, you'll have to grind it off.

The flat plate that attaches to the motor mount bosses on the block came from a local machine shop that manufacturers these plates for a local company.

I used a flat strap for the rear piece. It's .125" X 2"

The uprights are 1' X 1" square tubing.

Sorry about the poor pictures. I've got this thing in a back room with poor lighting.

I designed this whole thing in 2 separate pieces so that it will store in a small place when not being used.

I don't know what the weight limit would be for this design, but I have sat on this block and had a guy push me over bumps in the concrete. It didn't even flex. I suspect it would support whatever you could throw at it.

I pushed the 2 dowels out on the rear of the block. Never got around to drilling a clearance hole in the rear upright for the dowels.

I had a guy who came into the shop and saw this after I made it. He wanted 3 for himself. I never found the time to make them.
 
#18 ·
I just used some 3/4 in. plywood and 2x4s I had laying around. I just used the plywood for uprights its as deep as the pan is, and as long. I made it wide enough to set a oil pan on it so the uprights sit under the lip of the pan. used 2x4s across the width. glued and screwd to make a box. glued and screwed this box onto another piece of plywood. screwed 2x4s around the bottom of the base drilled it and bolted casters to it. works great! Jim
 
#19 ·
PT.2

Let's take it to the next level:

Where can we find the cheapest dynometer available?

Can we build it ourselves?

Would a TC member be willing to house a unit if several others chip in? (i volunteer) We would probably need one in each major metropolitan area.

If you're serious about performance, you need a dynometer. So i think we should discuss it.
 
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