Originally Posted by charbilly2001
I used to spend a considerable amount of time at an engine builder back in Minnesota when I lived there. They had some custom built electric pots that were about 4 inches square and had an heating element in the bottom. They would stick the small end of the rod into those heaters and they wouldn't take them out untin they were cherry to nearly yellow (as in VERY hot). Those guys are still in business and still use the same style pots to heat the rods. By now they have built engines numbering in 5 figures all with the rods getting the same treatment.
I had a D/MP Chevelle w/ a 283 back in the 70's the rods in which were assembled to the 12 1/2 compression forged pistons in exactly the same way. That engine saw some 10000RPM missed power shifts on several occasions and was properly shifted at 7500 RPM Hunderds of times. There is NO one who can tell me that the method I outlined won't work.
I have tons of empirical evidence that it will do NO harm to your connecting rod. Of course if you are using aluminum rods then this method is NOT for you.
Using an Arbor Press to press in the pins is fine as long as you have all the correct fittings and really know what you are doing. However over time I have seen a lot of good pistons ruined bu guys that didn't know what they were doing.
Whatever, do what you want Wolfplace everyone has his pet method. I am sure you have had a bad experience with heat. I have not.
Fist off if you had a small block you were in fact spinning to 7500 what was it doing with pressed pin rods??
Even GM didn't use pressed pins in their 302's which were a fairly high RPM deal & this was from the factory.
Secondly, what do aluminum rods have to do with a press fit scenario
I am not here to argue with you. You "hung out at a shop that did something that if you are correct goes completely against the recommendations of every association, every production engine rebuilder, every private engine rebuilder & every trade school since the 60's that I know of
I have been doing this stuff for about 40 years & I have actually done a few engines in this time.
If you do not believe what I as well as Bill is telling you how about checking with say Sunnen that makes the rod heaters, AERA that is pretty well respected in this venue & has a few guidelines regarding how hot to get a rod, any reliable source to find out about what happens when you get over a certain temperature with different metals
I can tell you that it is absolutely not acceptable to get the rod to a cherry red condition regardless of what you may think you saw people doing.
If you turn a rod red to yellow & stick a pin in it, it will not return to the correct size when is cools
This does not come from hanging out at some shop, it comes from the people that make the heaters as well as the people who make the rods, from well respected trade associations & from personal experience.
As Bill stated, I never said not to heat the rod as this is in my opinion the only acceptable way to install "pressed" pins & I use basically the same heater as Bill does.
A press is used to remove the pistons
What I did say & I stand by is you do not get the rod "cherry red", This is too hot, completely unnecessary & is destructive to the rod.
Again do a little investigation from any of the above mentioned sources.